Squeezing through Crypt Route on Bidean nam Bian

Crypt Route, Bidean nam Bian

Wes and Sean were keen to step things up a notch from what they had climbed so far, so with another favourable forecast, and great mixed climbing conditions, we decided to head up to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian, and climb the brilliant and esoteric Crypt Route.

The technical crux is really the first 10m or so, which starts up a deep chimney, before the route disappears into the mountain, where it follows a series of chimneys, before what is probably the physical crux, fitting through a small window, which in my case, required taking the rack off. Both Wes and Sean managed to weasel their ways through the window, not without the occasional grunt and curse.

From here, the route crosses the amazing arch which I’m sure is only just about held together by a keystone, before tackling Raeburn’s Chimney and steady climbing above.

Crypt Route, Winter Climbing Course

Crypt Route, Winter Climbing Course

Crypt Route, Winter Climbing Course

Crypt Route, Winter Climbing Course

Crypt Route, Winter Climbing Course

 

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