If Taliballan featured in a deck of Scottish Winter Routes Top Trumps, it would score pretty low for the approach to climbing ratio, as it’s about a 3 hour walk-in for a 70m route. Fortunately, it more than makes up for this by the quality and sustained nature of climbing, wilderness, lack of crowds and level of adventure, oh and mobile phone signal.

This is where Hannah and I decided to visit today, Stob Coire an Loaigh, a new venue for both of us. The walk-in is long, but fortunately, with the turf frozen, and snow somewhat consolidated, it was far easier than it could have been. Amazingly, we did see two other people, as we were approaching the crag, but they were walking up to Caisteal.

There’s no opportunity for a warm up on Taliballan, as the first pitch is the crux, but it’s a fairly short lived affair (a short, steep groove with spaced footholds). I’m not sure that the other two pitches were any less cruxy really, as the climbing was pretty sustained and good fun throughout, with just enough gear where needed.

The turf was fully frozen, the cracks reasonably clear of ice, and the crags well rimed, so I’m not sure that we could have found it to be in better condition. I’ll let the photos do the rest of the talking.

(Steve): Simon and I had a great day on East Ridge North Top Stob Ban. This is a great route for teaching alpine skills such as moving together, taking coils and transitioning to pitched climbing. Fitting, that we had blue skies and a strong cool wind for company allowing us super views over the Mamores and towards the Ben.

Meanwhile Hannah and Lena were enjoying a personal climbing day on North Buttress; Buachaille Etive Mor. Given it is a chimney climb, they were fairly sheltered from the wind until the easier ground near the top. She reported the main climbing to be in great nick and although it is a popular route they only shared it with one other team who turned out to be friends of theirs, so a social and successful day for them. The photos relay a more ‘Scottish’ scene in Glencoe….

(Steve): The stars aligned today; mates off, weather amazing and conditions good for snowed up rock routes. Our foray onto the North Face of Ben Nevis wasn’t without a good amount of wading however, our objective just about frosted enough (for our liking anyway). We chose Sidewinder (VII,8) which was great fun. Rich took us up the first pitch I was keen for the second and Colin took us to the top. Great climbing for all of us.

Meanwhile Ken was out on a little mission himself who was guiding Will who sought out an adventure. They headed up and over Am Bodach in Glencoe, where they climbed the mountain’s rarely climbed north ridge. The climbing today was quite tricky due to the snow covering compact, slabby rock. It’s supposedly a bit easier in leaner conditions, when the patches of turf can be more easily used for axe and foot placements. That all said, it was a good adventure, and great to explore somewhere new. Plenty of teams heading off to traverse the Aonach Eagach, which will be in brilliant condition at the moment.

Dave was out with Neil, and they climbed Curved Ridge, which again, is in pristine nick. Meanwhile Hannah was out leading Ben and Tim up the mountain path on Ben Nevis.

Glencoe Ridges
(Steve): It was my final day with Leanne and Jon who wanted to improve on yesterday’s lead coaching. We decided on Curved Ridge which would allow them to lead a few pitches between the harder sections. On approach it was busy as usual but typically the crowd thins out on this popular route allowing everyone some space. Today however, a queue had formed at the first pitch, not wanting to stand around too much we opted for a tactical retreat with Jon and Leanne taking charge. The afternoon was spent in Glen Nevis learning about rock placements and swinging leads. A fine day to finish off. Andy who was out again for us today stuck with it and enjoyed a great day on Curved Ridge despite the slow start.

Ken was out on School House Ridge where he reported improving conditions. The strong easterly winds were transporting a lot of loose snow and forming cornices and windslab on NW-SW aspects.

Dave and Matt climbed Dorsal Arete with their respective teams, Dave commented on allot of wading but had a great day nonetheless.

Finally, other Dave was out with Tom. They made the fourth West Coast Mountain Guides ascent of the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis on three days. He reported a fair bit of swimming en route.

We still have space on some of our set winter courses this season.
https://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/winter-courses/

Western Rib, Aonach Mor & SW Ridge, Ben Nevis

Ken: I was back out with Dave and Jay today and we headed round to the Summit Ribs on the West Face of Aonach Mor, where we climbed the brilliant Western Rib, which must be one of the longest grade IIIs around. The freezing level had creeped up a bit yesterday afternoon and overnight, and as a result the snow on the approach and on the lower pitches was quite wet, whereas the snow on the upper half of the route, of which there is quite a bit, is still fairly dry and unconsolidated (and the scree still loose where exposed).

Meanwhile, Steve was out with Leanne and Jon on the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder, on Ben Nevis. Again, the theme of plenty of unhelpful snow was ever present. This made the climbing a bit tricky at times, as hooks and gear all needed to be excavated. That all said, the team enjoyed themselves and had fun abseiling down the East Ridge of the Douglas Boulder.

The drop in the freezing level tomorrow should help firm things up a bit, particularly lower down.