Inglis Clark Ridge, Twisting Grooves & Fawlty Towers

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Ken: It’s been a brilliant weekend in the Scottish Highlands, with some amazing weather, particularly today, and some great winter climbing conditions to be had. Yesterday, I was out with just Nick, whilst the other two had a cultural day. We headed up to Stob Coire nan Lochan, which was in the clouds for much of the morning. It was clear that it was busy up there, but tricky to tell where folk were, but we managed to find Twisting Grooves free, and so had good fun on that.

Today, Nick, Allan, Andy and myself managed to avoid the crowds, and climbed Inglis Clark Ridge on Stob a’Ghais Choire. Whilst all the car parks in Glencoe were full, we shared the ridge with one other team. The main icefall that forms on the first pitch wasn’t there, but the rest of the route provided enjoyable mixed climbing throughout. There is a bit of scope for variation on the route, but we tried to stay as close to the crest as possible.

Steve, Bridget and Winnie also had a great day climbing Faulty Towers today. Conditions were good higher up but the entry pitch was steep, cruddy and bold bringing an imbalance to the route. Ben Nevis was like a Christmas cake with climbers getting amongst the classic V’s, many queues were formed but if your going to wait for your turn on any day then this was a day to do it. Teams on Orion Direct, Point Five, Observatory Buttress, Observation Ridge, NE Buttress, Hadrian’s Wall, Zero Gully, Tower Ridge, Slab Climb and many more!

CIC Hut: 5 Day’s of Winter Climbing in the Shadow of Ben Nevis

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West Coast Mountain Guides have been delivering winter climbing from the CIC Hut for many years. We typically suggest participants turn up climbing grade III/IV but this year we have an opportunity for one climber to join us with experience of grade II winter climbs and who aspires to climb routes upto and around III.
This is a great opportunity to live in the CIC Hut with the team and climb each day with other like minded participants.

25th Feb – 2nd March 2018

https://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/courses/cic-hut-winter-climbing-course/

Calling all budding winter mountaineers!

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We have space available on our winter skills courses which will allow summer hill walkers with little or no winter walking experience to learn how to use winter equipment such as crampons and ice axe. You will be coached on winter navigation, avalanche avoidance and also practice digging emergency snow shelters. Days will be spent travelling the Scottish winter mountains under expert instruction.
This is the gateway to independent winter walking and mountaineering – come and join the adventure!

Availability:
February 10th-11th & February 12th-16th
March 10th-11th & March 5th-9th

https://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/courses/winter-skills-course-scotland/

Blue Bird: School House Ridge & Aonach Eagach

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(Steve) It was my final day with Peter and Brenda and with a fine forecast we decided to piece all their skills together and climb School House Ridge above Ballachulish. This is a great intro route for budding mountaineers as it’s not too difficult and allows time to refine skills such as building belays and placing protection. Well done to these two inspirational people who are twice my age yet can stick 5 days winter mountaineering.

For one reason or another, Ken hadn’t traversed the Aonach Eagach in winter until today. Fortunately, today, that was finally rectified, and along with returning clients; Andy, Nick and Allan, they traversed one of the finest ridges in the UK under near perfect conditions. With conditions being so helpful, the trio were happy soloing a fair bit of it, and the team made good time along the ridge. Even the descent directly south of the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh was in great conditions, with plenty of helpful snow until about halfway down.

Zig-Zags: Glencoe

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(Steve); Pete and Brenda continue their journey to becoming independent winter mountaineers. We spent the day going up the Zig-Zags on Gearr Aonach which is a nice route when considering climbing to walking ratio yo save tired legs. We were well sheltered and didn’t get wet at all which was nice after the drowning on Tuesday.

Matt was also out teaching James and Ben to lead on East Ridge North Top Stob Ban.

Www.WestCoast-MountainGuides.co.uk

Twisting Gully & Grooves, Stob Coire nan Lochan

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Ken: I was back out with Vic today, and we decided to seek some shelter from the winds in Coire nan Lochan. The freezing level had crept right up to the base of the buttresses, giving us a rather damp approach this morning, however, things soon improved once we had geared up and made our way to Twisting Gully.

Conditions on the route are excellent, with plenty of ice and first time axe placements, although there’s not much in the way of obvious gear placements, much of it hidden under the ice. We were well sheltered from the winds until we topped out, however, there was a fair bit of spindrift being sent down the crags. I was working for Abacus Mountain Guides today.

Not far behind us, Stu and Leanne were enjoying the slightly steeper Twisting Grooves, again, with plenty of useful ice en route.

Dave was out with John. They climbed School House Ridge, above Ballachulish.

Over on Ben Nevis, Steve delivered a day looking at snow anchors for Pete and Brenda, who are realising just how wild Scottish winter can be. Plenty of snow falling on Ben Nevis, freezing levels lowered to 600m throughout the day. Teams climbing Tower Ridge and East Ridge Douglas Boulder.

No. 3 Gully Buttress, NC Gully and Curved Ridge

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Ken: For the first time in a while, I was back on Ben Nevis, this time with Vic, who I’ve been out with a number of times in the past. He was after a warm-up day, having not been able to get out winter climbing last season, so we decided to head up high on Ben Nevis, where we climbed No. 3 Gully Buttress, which was in excellent condition. There are a couple of optional, steeper icy steps on the first pitch, and some well consolidated snow-ice on the final pitch. A couple of French teams climbed the first couple of pitches of Two-Step Corner, then joined No. 3 Gully Buttress, as the top pitch of Two-Step was pretty lean. Vic and I then descended Tower Gully. Smith’s and Indicator Wall were looking pretty lean, but Hadrian’s Wall and Observatory Buttress Direct were looking ok. I was working for Abacus Mountain Guides today.

NC Gully is also in good condition, with nice steps at grade II, cracks all clear and firm snow throughout. Steve’s team climbed the route in 4 pitches allowing Pete and Brenda lot of opportunity to learn how to belay, place protection and move around on graded ground. It was surprisingly dry with very little precipitation and only briefly windy on descent.

Lastly, Stu was out with Leanne. They climbed Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor.

East Ridge of Beinn a’Chaorainn

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Ken: With a rather windy forecast, it was a team West Coast Mountain Guides ascent of the East Ridge of Beinn a’Chaorainn today. It’s a particularly well sheltered route from SW/W winds, and so whilst we were blown about a bit on the approach, we were soon on the ridge, and tucked well away from the worst of it.
I was out with Liere and Ian, who are up to work on their winter mountaineering skills. They led themselves up the ridge, with me alongside offering coaching and guidance along the way. Meanwhile, Steve was out with Nick again, who commented that it wasn’t a proper winter climbing trip without experiencing the wind and rain! We did witness (from a distance) some substantial cornice collapse from the corrie rim, and resultant avalanches, which gave our teams a healthy lesson in staying well away from enclosed corries and underneath cornices during periods of thaw.
The weather was quite mixed, but we did enjoy some reasonably dry periods, and even saw blue skies at one point. Conditions on the route were reasonable considering the thaw, and as you can see from the photos, there’s not a lack of snow up there!

‘The Scottish ‘Alps’

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It was another amazing day to be mountaineering in the Scottish Highlands. Steve and Nick climbed Golden Oldy on the West Face of Aonach Mor. This classic grade II was to be Nick’s first proper winter mountaineering route. Conditions were perfect with lots of frozen turf, clear spikes for belays and even some ice to climb.

Dave took Gregor and Richard for an adventure on the Aonach Eagach and reported sun , firm snow, ice and no wind. This made for a perfect day along the ridge. The guys lead the first section themselves using mountaineering rope work before Dave lead them along the rest of the route.

Ken was out with Alex, Greg, Tobias and Jimmy. They climbed the lesser-travelled Ruth, a grade I+ gully on the West Face of Aonach Mor. This brilliant gully gave the team a chance to practice various snow belays in a quiet, yet stunning setting. Plenty of teams on the summit ribs, as well as one team who climbed Left Twin.

Atmospheric Abseil outside the Church Door on Bidean Nam Bian

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Making the Most of it

Steve and Ken had a rare opportunity to climb together yesterday. They went to Church Door Buttress but unfortunately the cracks were so chocked with ice that steep mixed climbing was out. They made the most of the day by climbing West Chimney which is a great route and slightly stiffer since a rock fall a few years ago closed the cave pitch. Steve had done the new variation but as Ken hadn’t climbed the route in years got the pleasure of leading the difficulties on P2. There is some forum chat about the grade but V,6 is probably accurate after the rock fall. The pair made an exciting abseil outside the great arch that forms Church Door Buttress as another team (who had also decided against their main objective) climbed/caved up Crypt Route.