More Skye Action

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Ken: We’ve had a real mixture of weather over the past couple of days, with everything from a smattering of hail, winds, rain and sunshine.

Yesterday, with the forecast set to improve during the day, we started off with Sgurr Na Banachdich, before tackling the Munro baggers’ nemesis, the In Pinn, which team took in their stride. We then cut under An Stac, before drier conditions allowed an ascent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.

Today, with a dry, yet windy start, we made short work of Sgurr a’Mhadaidh and Sgurr a’Ghreadaidh, and were down before the rain arrived. We encountered a few small patches of snow, much of which was easily avoidable and certainly didn’t require any winter kit.

For the past four days, Steve and I have been running a Skye Munros Course, in conjunction with Steven Fallon Mountain Guiding.

Southern 3 Cuillin Munros

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Ken: It was another wet and windy day on the Isle of Skye, but that did little to deter our enthusiastic Skye Munros team (run in conjunction with Steven Fallon Mountain Guiding). We made our way up Sgurr Nan Eag first of all, before heading up and over Sgurr Dubh na da Bheinn and onto our second Munro; Sgurr Dubh Mor.

We then retraced our steps and contoured beneath Sgurr Alasdair, often between large patches of snow and the steeper crags, before doubling back and tackling the traverse of the highest peak on the Isle of Skye. We then descending the mighty Great Stone Chute. Like yesterday, much of the day was spent in the clouds, but as we reached Coire Lagan, we were treated to views and a marked improvement in the weather.

Sgurr Nan Gillean via the SE Ridge

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Ken: Today saw Steve and I kick off our first Skye Munros Course that we run in conjunction with Steven Fallon Mountain Guiding. With a wet and windy start to the day and with plenty of snow still lingering, we opted for the more sheltered and snow free SE Ridge (AKA The Tourist Route) up and down Sgurr Nan Gillean.

Conditions on the route were as expected; wet and slippery in places, but the team did well and we summited in good time. The rain gave way to sunshine and a gentle breeze during the afternoon, giving us a pleasant end to the day.

We only saw one other team, who made a quick ascent of Pinnacle Ridge.

More alpine prep on Curved Ridge, Glencoe

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Ken: Eric and I were back out today, this time we headed to Buachaille Etive Mor to climb Curved Ridge, which is possibly one of the best routes of its grade in the Highlands.

The day started of similar to yesterday, with the cloud base hovering just above the glen floor, but it soon cleared up to give a pleasant spring day. Eric had plans to head to Oban this afternoon, so we kept the foot down, and made swift progress up the ridge and soon found ourselves on the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor. We descended Coire na Tulaich, which is still holding a fair amount of snow, which didn’t require crampons today, but like yesterday, an axe was helpful. Only one other team on Curved Ridge, but plenty of people on the summit. Rannoch Wall was damp, but could be dry enough to climb tomorrow!

All the best to Eric with his ascent of the Matterhorn later this summer, these two days in the Highlands will stand him in good stead!

Fancy being guided up Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor, which must be one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains? Head over to https://westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/courses/curved-ridge-guide/

Alpine prep on Castle Ridge, Ben Nevis

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Ken: After a couple of weeks of ski touring, with friends, in the Vanoise region of the Alps, I was back out on Ben Nevis today, this time with Eric, who is putting in some mileage in preparation for an attempt on the Matterhorn later this summer.

With quite a bit of snow melt in progress, we crossed the Allt a’Mhuilinn above the CIC Hut, and traversed beneath Carn Dearg to get to the start. Here we bumped into a horde of skiers, who were out to ski some, if not all, of the gullies between them.

The weather held off, and whilst the rock on Castle Ridge was mostly damp, it was drying out in places, and provided plenty of opportunities to practice careful footwork. On topping out, we bumped into Mark and Nadir, who were getting shots of skiers dropping into South Castle Gully. We also saw some skiers on the hanging corrie that sits above the Shroud (look closely at the photos!). It’s certainly not a place to take a tumble!

We ventured to the summit, before catching a ride down the Red Burn, which is still chocked full of snow, which is quite firm in places. Crampons not essential today, but an axe was useful.

If you fancy a guided day on Castle Ridge, or on one of the other fantastic ridges on Ben Nevis this summer, get in touch!

First 4 days of Skye season 2018

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Steve: I’ve just got home from my first 4 days of Skye season 2018. Thankfully the weather God’s were kind to us as Dave, Jim and I kicked off with perfect conditions for a traverse of Sgurr Dubh Mor, Alasdair and MhicCoinnich. We passed a group of friends walking a high-line over the great stone shoot in the process which was impressive and made for a good photo opportunity. We subsequently made use of a typically ‘Scottish’ forecast and climbed the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean which was icy and consequential on the long snowy approach. To polish off a succesful three days Dave and I completed a round of corrie Greadaidh which never fails to impress.
Having left Dave and Jim to make their journey home I met up with Helen and George who had just enjoyed a couple of days guiding with Dave. We scrambled up Sgurr Mhic Coinnich in wet and breezy conditions which felt somewhat more akin to Skye’s Cuillin ridge.

No snow on the East Ridge of the North Top, Stob Ban

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Ken: For Sebastian’s final day, we braved the rain and made our way up to the East Ridge of the North Top of Stob Ban. Fortunately, the rains eased during the morning, and our ascent of the East Ridge was a pleasant affair, with clear views to the summits of the surrounding Munros.

The ridge is mostly climbed during the winter, when cloaked with snow, however, it does give a reasonable summer scramble, if a bit vegetated in places. With clear skies and calm winds as well as the expansive views and fantastic situations, Seb and I enjoyed the route, and took in the summit of Stob Ban as well. The snow on the final section of the north ridge was still fairly firm, but mostly avoidable.

Rather than descending the steepest part of the north ridge, we opted to bum-slide from the west ridge of the Central Top, down into Coire an Lochain. I have been working for Peak Mountaineering for the past three days.

Mixed weather on Castle Ridge

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Ken: I was back out with Sebastian, and working for Peak Mountaineering, today, and we decided to go for Castle Ridge on Ben Nevis. The day started off dry, but the drizzle soon set in, giving us a rather damp ascent of Castle Ridge. In these conditions, careful footwork becomes all the more crucial, as the Andesite that makes up the bulk of Ben Nevis can be very slippery when wet.

Sebastian did fantastically well, as the two distinct cruxes of Castle Ridge were a significant step up from his previous experiences. There’s virtually no snow on the ridge anymore, but a fair sized patch to cross to gain the start. On topping out, we continued up to the summit of Ben Nevis, before making a bee-line for the Red Burn, which provided a quick and enjoyable descent, using that all-important mountaineering technique, ‘the bum-slide’.

The weather cleared on our descent, and by the time we reached Halfway Lochan, the summit of cloud-free.

If you fancy being guided up Castle Ridge, or any of the other magnificent ridges on Ben Nevis this summer, please give us a shout!

Dry rock on Buachaille Etive Mor

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Ken: The weather turned out to be much better than the forecasts suggested; the winds decreased through the day and the rain held off. I was out with Sebastian, working for Peak Mountaineering. Sebastian was up in December, during a particularly cold snap, so today’s conditions were quite a contrast. We climbed Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor, which consisted of dry rock for much of the way. We continued across to the foot of Crowberry Tower, where an axe was useful (crampons not required), and climbed to the top of the tower, before abseiling off. The upper slopes were quite soft, and again, didn’t require crampons. We enjoyed a brilliant bum slide almost all the way down Coire na Tulaich.

Just round the corner, Steve and Nick rounded off 4 great days of adventure, with an ascent of North Buttress, which is quite loose at the moment. Careful footwork was needed to avoid tumbling blocks on every pitch but it was really enjoyable climbing on our own in the sunshine; Nick had a great day, and the four days have been a great warm-up for Nick’s trip to the Alps this summer. They stripped the route of all the cord left over from winter so if you’re planning on rapping bring along some tat.

Castle Ridge

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(Steve) It was lovely on Castle Ridge today. Nick and I enjoyed the ascent in warm sunshine whilst the majority of the North Face was shrouded in mist. No crampons required and not too much greasy rock which I have always found Castle Ridge suffers from so shortly after the winter. We took a walk over to the summit as it was Nicks first time climbing on Ben Nevis. Snow conditions are really friendly on the tourist path although it is certainly a necessity to be able to navigate safely as the cairns are still well buried especially at the crucial dogleg near the summit. An epic but controlled bum-slide back down the red burn made things easy on the legs.

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