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 This
programme aims to ascend the two highest peaks in the European
Alps as well as instructing those taking part in proper alpine
glacier techniques. A number of additional peaks above 4,000m
will be attempted in the process of gradual acclimatisation.
In this way it is hoped that course members will be fit enough
to enjoy the climb to the roof of France and Switzerland.
A good deal of the time will be spent in high mountain huts
and some time allocated to explore Chamonix and Zermatt. The
course is not of a technical nature, apart from day seven,
but a good level of fitness is required. Suitable for strong
and fit hillwalker's/scramblers in Britain. Experience on
snow/ice is preferred but not essential, as these skills are
taught during the course.
- 1:2 or 1:4 (See prices below).
- By arrangement (June to September)
- £1,900 per person (two people
booking 1:2)
- £1,400 per person (four people
booking 1:4)
- All hut costs and hut meals
- All mountain transport (cable cars).
- Valley B&B
- All Guides expenses
- Tuition, guiding services and ropes.
- Valley evening meals or packed lunches..
- Alpine insurance (Contact BMC)
- Travel to the Alps
The exchange rate may change,
but not the main course price, which is fixed for the season.
Proposed Mont Blanc & Monte Rosa course
- Day 1
Meet for gear check. The majority of the day will be spent
practicing prussiking and crevasse rescue rope techniques
on a local crag and making sure all the equipment is correct
and understood.,
- Day 2
Ascend to a local mountain hut in preparation for climbing
a 4,000m peak the next day. Also some time will be spent
practicing glacier skills on a real glacier near the hut.
- Day 3
Ascent of a 4,000m peak from the Saas valley to start the
acclimatisation process.
- Day 4
Cable car from Zermatt and a glacier day traveling to the
Refuge de Ayas (3400m). An ascent of either the Breithorn
or Pollux will be included.
- Day 5
Traverse to Quintino Sella Hut (3585m) via the summit of
Castor (4178m). A high altitude glacier day of six to eight
hours (Grade F+)
- Day 6
Traverse to either Gnifetti (3647m) or Margherita 4569m)
huts. The later hut is the highest in the alps and which
hut we use will depend on group fitness and acclimatisation.
A traverse of Liskamm will only be included if the group
is working on a 1:2 ratio (please ask for a price for this
option).
- Day 7
Margherita Hut if Gnifetti was used on the previous night
via local 4,000 metre peaks.
- Day 8
Monte Rosa (4634m) summit if weather permits (Grade AD),
only on a 1:2 ratio and descent to Zermatt. Groups on larger
ratios will ascend Zumsteinspitze and then descend the Grenz
glacier and return to Zermatt for the night. Another high
altitude day with some ridge scrambling/climbing on ice,snow
and rock.
- Day 9
Travel to Chamonix. Rest day with various alternatives (sleeping,
shopping, sun-bathing, simple rock climbing and preparing
for attempt on Mt Blanc).
- Day 10
Ascend to a hut for attempt on Mont Blanc. Which hut will
be dictated by availability, fitness and snow conditions.
- Day 11/12
Mont Blanc 4807m (Grade PD-). 1:2 ratio for this section
of the course only.
The ascent of Mont Blanc usually only takes two days including
ascent and descent. An extra day is allowed in case of poor
weather. The whole twelve day programme has some room for
adjustment in case of unforeseen problems or poor weather.
In the case of really bad weather and lost days we will
concentrate on one of the two main tops as agreed by those
taking part. If we are successful in completing the whole
of the above programme, those taking part will have visited
some of the highest and most beautiful glacial regions in
the Alps. The first half of the course is known as the '
Italian High Level Route'.
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