Cairngorms & Ben Nevis Mountaineering

I’ve just finished three days of Winter Mountaineering with Mark and Sebastian, working for Peak Mountaineering. For the first two days, we were in the Cairngorms, where on day one we climbed up Fiacaill Ridge, looking at alpine ropework, before descending O.5 Gully, where we were able to look at snow anchors and axe belays. For our second day, Mark and Sebastian pitched their way up Aladdin’s Couloir, which was in go

od condition, with plenty of firm snow, particularly on the lower pitches.

 

 

 

Today, we decided to have a change of scenery, particularly as options were a bit limited over east, and came over to Ben Nevis, where the pair led their way up Ledge Route, which had more snow on it than expected, and required crampons from the platform above Carn Dearg Buttress.

Still quite a bit of ice holding on to the cliffs of Ben Nevis, but from a distance, it’s hard to say how good it all is. Point 5, Glover’s Chimney, The White Line, NE Buttress, Tower Ridge and Green Gully have all seen ascents recently, but the warmer temperatures will be starting to take its toll on the ice. A couple of teams back off Comb Gully yesterday and today, reporting it to no longer be climbable.