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The Nevis
Partnership in consultation with the John Muir Trust
and after wide consultation amongst mountaineers have removed
the two shelters shown on the map below. There are no plans
to remove the summit shelter.
The details given below are taken from the guidebook by
Cicerone Press - Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen
Coe - Alan Kimber - ISBN 1 85284 348 9
The high summit plateau of Ben Nevis is surrounded on nearly
all sides by steep and difficult ground. Many accidents
have occurred in descent. Often this part of the day will
call for more concentration and shrewdness of judgment than
at any other time.
The best descent will be determined not only by your point
of arrival on the summit plateau but also by the weather
and snow conditions. The shortest way will not necessarily
be the easiest and in really bad conditions the best way
off the mountain may be by Route 1 below. Careful use of
map, compass, pacing and possibly GPS and the sketch plan
of the cliffs given in this guidebook will suffice to get
you down but local knowledge is invaluable. When visibility
is good, make a close study of the general topography of
the mountain and if possible visit the summit plateau with
a view to memorising its details and recording important
compass/GPS bearings. The ruined observatory, topped by
a SURVIVAL SHELTER, GPS NN16684 71256, is an UNMISTAKABLE
LANDMARK on the summit itself even though the neighbouring
triangulation point and numerous cairns may be covered by
snow. It is recommended to start all compass bearings and
GPS Waypoints from the shelter, even though the observatory
ruins can intrude on the initial few metres of the 231°
(grid) safety bearing if they are not covered with snow.
The best aids to descending from the summit of Ben Nevis
are the Harvey Superwalker map of Ben Nevis, 1:25,000 and
a compass, and the ability to use both in vile weather conditions.
These two items should form essential companions to this
guidebook. The insert on the map (Scale 1:12,500) is particularly
useful. It shows the sharply indented plateau, and the gullies
which must be avoided on compass bearings in poor visibility.
Anyone who visits the mountains in summer or winter without
a map and a compass (and the ability to use them in ‘white
out’) is putting their life at risk.
Using the map previously mentioned the following
descents are recommended:
1. Red Burn (‘Mountain Track’)
The easiest way down the mountain. Follow a grid bearing
of 231° for 140m from the summit shelter or 150m from
the summit trig point (use a rope to measure it if you are
not sure of your pacing) GPS NN16558 71180. This will avoid
the steep drop of Gardyloo Gully close on your right. Then
follow a bearing of 282° (grid). GPS NN 15721 71384
to the 1200m contour. Don’t forget to convert your
grid bearings to magnetic (approx. +4° in 2002). On
the second bearing you should reach a short steeper section
after 300m and continuously steeper ground after 900m of
down hill travel. At this point the ‘Mountain Track’
route meets the plateau. Continue on down a steep but easy
slope, for another kilometre on the same bearing or GPS
NN14756 71865, then turn north towards the ‘Halfway-Lochan’.
N.B. Along this route it is important not to stray left
(south) in the first 2km, as this would lead to the steep
and serious ground of ‘Five Finger Gully’. The
steep lip of this gully is 800m (approx) from the top of
Gardyloo Gully. Accurate pacing and compass work is an essential
skill for all people climbing on Ben Nevis. If after 800m
on the recommended bearing you encounter steep ground and
cliffs dead ahead you are advised to try and avoid them
by
going right (North) until it is possible to continue on
the bearing (282 deg grid). This may require that you travel
uphill for a short distance to skirt the top of ‘Five
Finger Gully’.
IF YOU FINISH UP HEADING SOUTH DOWNHILL AND SKIRTING
THE TOP OF STEEP CLIFFS TO YOUR RIGHT (WEST) AFTER 800m
FROM THE TOP OF GARDYLOO GULLY IT IS HIGHLY LIKELY THAT
YOU HAVE MADE A NAVIGATION ERROR AND ARE VERY CLOSE TO ‘FIVE
FINGER GULLY’. GO BACK UPHILL UNTIL IT IS POSSIBLE
TO CONTINUE ON THE ORIGINAL BEARING (282 deg grid).
The Red Burn is well known as a good ‘Bum Slide’.
Please be aware that large waterfalls exist at the bottom
of the burn before it reaches the track and many large rocks
are present all the way up the burn which will not only
rip your expensive Goretex pants, but may put a hole in
your head as well! This area has been the scene of fatal
avalanche accidents .
GPS towards Mountain Track (Red Burn) descent as follows:
Summit shelter NN16684 71256
Gardyloo Gully ‘dog-leg’ NN16558 71180 (140m)
Maclean’s ‘Steep’ NN16262 71232 (310m)
Red Burn Track NN14756 71865 (1650m)
2. No.4 Gully
For climbers returning to the C.I.C. Hut or Allt a’Mhuilinn
area, this descent is straightforward in good visibility.
The top of the gully has a metal marker post with the number
4 drilled into it (GR 158717 – GPS NN15821 71733).
Sometimes the cornice can be impassable, but a slot is usually
dug out from below. Also it is possible at times to move
a few metres to the north, along the rim and gain access
to the gully down steeper ground. Avalanches have occurred
in this gully from time to time and the initial entry can
be steep, but it soon eases. Take care.
N.B. A compass bearing due west from the lip of this gully
(270° grid) or GPS NN 14756 71865 is a descent to Glen
Nevis, via the Red Burn mentioned previously.
3. Carn Mor Dearg Arête/Abseil Post Sign
This route can be used with care. It provides a method of
descending quickly to a lower altitude, especially if the
weather on the plateau is fierce. MANY DEATHS HAVE OCCURRED
ON THIS DESCENT OVER THE YEARS. Most of the fatalities have
been connected with people straying too far left (north)
from the summit on descent.
From the summit shelter a bearing of 134° (grid) GPS
NN16897 71017 should be held. Initially the ground will
be flat. After 100m the gradient steepens abruptly and some
short posts may be seen; keep these to your left (north-east).
From the steepening after approximately 200m of descent
a slight col will be found to the left (east) half a kilometre
from the summit. At this point is a metal sign (GR 171710
– GPS NN17099 71005) with information relating to
the ‘Abseil Posts’. Only two of the higher posts
remain (winter 2002) and with care the person experienced
in negotiating steep Grade 1 ground in descent will be able
to move down easily into Coire Leis. Often it is easier
to traverse left (west) towards the Little Brenva Face,
before descending. However, snow build-up will dictate the
easiest and most obvious route down. The angle is steep
at first, but eases after 150m. As with many snowy descents
be careful after strong winds during periods of heavy drifting
to avoid being another avalanche victim on this slope.
N.B. From the Abseil Post Sign it is possible
to descend to the head of Glen Nevis on a bearing of 220°
(grid) or GPS NN 16459 70018. This leads to the top of the
‘Waterslide’ mentioned elsewhere under approaches.
The original bearing of 134° (grid) from the summit
should not be followed for more than 500m as it leads to
steep and dangerous ground.
Extra Tips:
For those climbers ‘topping out’ on the following
routes in poor visibility and not wishing to visit the summit,
these bearings will help:
Gardyloo Buttress 214° grid for 75m (GPS NN1650171181)
then 282° grid to Red Burn or GPS NN16262 71232 to GPS
NN14678 71590
Tower Gully 214° grid For 50m (GPS NN16426 71198)
then 282° grid to Red Burn or GPS NN16262 71232 to GPS
NN14678 71590
Tower Ridge 214° grid for 130m (GPS NN16378 71232)
then 282° grid to Red Burn or GPS NN16262 71232 to GPS
NN14678 71590
No.2 Gully 282° grid to Red Burn or GPS NN14678 71590
No.3 Gully 282° grid to Red Burn or GPS NN14756 71865
Green/Comb Gully 220° grid for 150m (GPS NN16082 71291
then 282° grid to Red Burn or GPS NN14756 71865
Ledge Route 270° grid for 200m (GPS NN15675 72100)
then 180° grid for 450m (GPS NN15675 71655)
then 270° grid to Red Burn (GPS NN14756 71865)
Castle Ridge 232° grid for 200m then 308° grid
The descent to the ‘Half-way-Lochan is over very rough,
broken and rocky ground, with one or two small crags in
places.
NB: The slope north of the Red Burn between the 1125m and
675m contour lines is not very pleasant for descent and
contains a number of small crags.
For climbers finishing on routes to the east of the summit
(N.E. Buttress and Little Brenva Face) it is advisable to
try and find the summit shelter (GPS NN16684 71256) as a
definite reference point before descending if they are unsure
about the descent. To do this, it should be possible to
use the N.E. edge of the plateau above Zero & Point
Five gullies and Good Friday Climb as a ‘handrail’
to the summit trig point (15m north of the shelter). Cornice
collapse has caused a few fatalities in this area so stay
roped, with only one member of the party near the edge.
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