Alpine Rock Climbing

Course Overview

These six day courses can be tailored to suit those taking part, either introductory - intermediate or advanced. The top end (advanced) grade would be around V/VI (UIAA) which equates with H.V.S. 5a in Britain. Lesser mortals are of course welcome! The location can also be flexible and if you have a particular area or climb you would like to visit then please phone to discuss the possibilities. Anywhere from the Dolomites to the Dauphine will be considered. The emphasis will be on accessible mountain crags and day routes. It may be necessary to spend a night in a high hut in order to get a quick start the next day. Chalk bag and sticky rubber are essential!

The courses will only run if two people are booked.

Course Details

Costs: £300 per day for 1:1 or £150 each 1:2 ratio

Ratio: 1:1 or 1:2

Dates

By arrangement (June to September)

Description

Prices do not include

  • Any hut costs and meal
  • Cable car costs
  • Guides hut expenses
  • B&B valley accommodation
  • Valley evening meals and packed lunches
  • Alpine insurance (Contact BMC)
  • Travel to the alps

 

Kit Requirements

Alps Kit List

Boots

Boots
For the Alps it is essential to have a warm and stiff soled boot. The warmth of the boot is important on high snowy peaks. Boots can be hired, but it is better to arrive with your own well broken-in footwear, in order to avoid problems. They must not be smooth soled or very flexible. Go for a B2 for general alpinism or B3 if you intend climbing more technical routes. Lightweight fabric boots are not recommended.

Crampons

Crampons
These should be ten or twelve pointers with front points. They should fit the boots you will be wearing! Rigid C3 crampons 'ball up' badly and are not recommended for that reason. Completely stiff crampons are not good for long treks. C2 Petzl-Charlet mixed points with toe straps and heel
' cup' are good, as are Grivel G10. Heel 'cups' tend to be more sure-fitting than heel clips on some boots. Carry your crampons in a bag, rubber nipple crampon covers are very fiddly and time consuming. Please have anti-balling plates fitted to your crampons. A C1 crampon with straps all round can be used on stiffer boots.

ice axe

Axe
Alpine axes should be around 60/70cms in length. Shorter tools are needed if steep climbing is envisaged.

Harness
Essential. Adjustable leg loops are preferred for ease of fitting. The Black Diamond 'Bod' is good.

Helmet

Helmet
Essential. Adjustable leg loops are preferred for ease of fitting. The Black Diamond 'Bod' is good.

Waterproof Jacket and Trousers
The trousers should have a full length leg zip for ease of fitting over boots and crampons. Lightweight waterproofs are often better in the Alps as they spend most of the time in your rucsac.

Gaiters
A lightweight pair of gaiters (not Yeti's) are essential at times.

Rucsac

Rucsac
A medium volume sac of 45/55 litres is best. Plastic bag liners are useful. Buy a rucsac without too many complicated straps and buckles. Large hip supports often hinder harness fitting and add to the weight, as do internal metal stiffeners.

fleece

Clothing
Should be of lightweight layers. Extremes of temperature will be experienced and a flexible system is essential. Warm mitts and hat are essential, as are sun-shade hat, trainers and shorts. Jackets should have accessible pouch pockets for carrying items needed quickly (sunglasses, sweeties, small camera, sun cream, etc.). Shirts should have a high collar to protect your neck from the sun, T-shirts are poor in this respect.

Bivvy Bag

Bivvy Bag
A large person sized plastic survival bag (500gauge) is the minimum requirement.

First Aid Kit

First Aid Kit
A small personal pack including medication for blisters, headaches, stomach upsets, sunburn plus any personal drugs. For people on special drug treatments please bring spares and/or a list of their brand names/contents. Total sun block cream for glacier travel. Lip salve. Small tube of skin cream. Ear plugs for a quiet nights sleep in huts if other people are snoring!

Good Quality Sun-glasses
Best with side covers for glacier travel. Please check with an optician.

Compass and Map

Compass and Map
Maps are best bought on arrival but can be found in Britain, check beforehand.

Guide Books
Try 'The Alpine 4000m Peaks' by Richard Goedeke (Diadem). Recommended

Prussik Loops
Bring four metres of 6mm line (softish kernmantel) to be made into loops on arrival.

Long Tape Slings

Two @ 120cm and Screwgate Karabiners (three).

Water-bottle

Water-bottle
Essential to carry a litre.

Light Sleeping Bag
For camping, bunkhouses and possible planned bivouacs.Not for alpine huts. A light silk sleeping bag liner can add to your comfort considerably.

Telescopic Ski Poles (three part)
Very useful for taking the weight off your lower body in descent, boosting you up hill and general balance. Recommended but not essential.

Rock Boots

Rock Boots
Useful for valley climbing, during bad weather conditions at altitude.

Other items
- Form E111 (DSS)
- Passport
- Alpine Club Card
- Insurance