Latest mountain conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Beinn Udlaidh

Friday, 12 March 2010

HELLO ALAN.
LOTS GOING ON IT SEEMS.
DAVE G AND I TOOK A TRIP BACK UP BEINN UDLAIDH ON WEDNESDAY. A FABULOUS SUNNY DAY, AND -5 AT THE CAR PARK WHEN WE ARRIVED.
MIXED REPORTS ABOUT THE HILL BUT STILL LOTS THERE.
THE SLOPE ABOVE THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE CRAG STILL HAD A DANGEROUS LOOKING BUILD UP HANGING OVER THE ROUTES, AND WE AVOIDED THIS.
CLIMBED 'WHITE CATERPILLAR', THEN, A VERY STEEP GRADE 4 IN THE MIDDLE SECTION CALLED 'ANTIQUES ROADSHOW'. THIS WAS WELL BUILT UP WITH ICE AND GAVE AN UNRELENTING 150FT CLIMB.
I ATTACH A PHOTO OF THE FIRST ROUTE, AND ONE OF THE WESTERN CLIFFS AS THEY WERE ON WEDNESDAY.

EDDIE WALTHAM.

White Caterpillar

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 23:36 0 comments
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Lost Valley

Alan,

Escaped the crowds today up on Lost Valley Minor Buttress; three teams did Chimney Route, which gave two good pitches of IV,4 with ice just where it was needed, Central Scoop at IV,4 and Right Edge, which was easier than the guidebook at III. Freezing level was just about at the base of the crag at 900m, which was lucky, as everything below was dripping. Doubt it there will be much up there by the end of tomorrow....

Duncan Francis

Thanks Duncan. Have you got any crag shots of this area for a winter guide book?

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 23:26 0 comments
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Nevis Action

Minus One Gully is reported as 'Skinny' and Minus Two Gully as 'Fat' Loads of action on Orion - Point Five -Hadrian's - Sickle - Zero - Observatory Buttress - Tower Ridge.

Tower Gap 'fixed' belay 'tat'.

Eastern Traverse today,

New steps.

Great Tower today.

Allt a'Mhuilinn Red Deer Stag. These beast appear to be coping well with us climbers. Has anyone heard rifle shots around Ben Nevis this winter?

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:49 0 comments
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Lost Crampons

Thursday, 11 March 2010

Hi Alan

I am missing a pair of Charlet Moser crampons which were in a grey crampon bag. I last had them leaving the CIC hut on Tuesday, they were strapped to the outside of my pack and may have fallen off on the track down or I could have left them at the Ben Nevis car park laying on the ground.
If anybody comes across them you can contact me at ronankkeane@eircom.net

many thanks

Ronan Keane

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:29 0 comments
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This week on Ben Nevis

Hi Alan,

Many thanks for letting us use your booking spaces in the CIC hut on Sunday and Monday night. We put the opportunity to good use and bagged a couple of classic lines in perfect conditions.
I believe Tony is still trying to squeeze a few more in before he returns to Ireland on Sunday.
attached are a few memorable shots on Vanishing gully, Orion Direct and Green Gully.

Many thanks again

Ronan Keane and Tony Farrell

Thanks guys. If anyone is interested I still have spaces at the hut for the week 21/26th March. Either on a course or self-led.

The traverse out from the 'Second Slab Rib' on Orion Direct.

Green Gully.

Vanishing Gully above the cave.

Climber solo on Zero Gully.

Orion Direct approaching the 'Basin'.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 09:25 2 comments
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Good conditions on Nevis

Wednesday, 10 March 2010

Reports of good conditions on Ben Nevis with Minus One and Two Gullies receiving ascents. Anything on the East Face of Aonach Mor that catches the sun is falling apart. Routes such as Left Twin will remain good in the shadow for some time to come.

Plenty of good climbing at many locations. Lots of space in The Bunkhouse and also a full refund OR good rock climbing alternatives on winter climbing courses in April if the current cold weather AND good conditions do not continue.

Not to be missed bargains!!!

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:27 0 comments
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Hard frost tonight

Sunday, 7 March 2010

Hi Alan

Please find attached a few pics from our travels this past week – based in Glencoe and Aviemore. Thursday was a superb clear sunny day - we climbed Stob Coire nan Lochain from the Lost Valley – fabulous views. We also saw a “large-format” oil painter at work just down from the Glen Etive road turning (that is dedication for you)! Today we have been up on the Cairngorm Plateau – lots of people around – ski tourers, snow boarders, kite-boarders, climbers and walkers – all having a great time. There is an incredible amount of snow – almost no evidence of boulders on the plateau area at all. A large party were doing a route on Fiacaill Buttress, and we saw one intrepid individual ski down the headwall of Coire an t-Sneachda !
If readers want to see the Cairngorms at their very best, now would be a good time to visit.
Cheers
Roy

Thanks Roy.

Fiacaill Buttress.

Lost Valley crags - Glen Coe.

Lost Valley - Glen Coe

Tonight we have a very hard frost at sea level in Fort William and the conditions must be very good on Ben Nevis I would guess.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:07 0 comments
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