These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Compleat on Nevis

Wednesday, 1 July 2009

Alan, there's a good pic here of Tower gully which shows the amount of snow - this was taken on the descent and the footholds below were cut by me on the way up..

Hi Alan, the last Munro outing on the Ben went very well except for my brother's crampons were useless in the soft neve. he never made it past Tower scoop.
The neve started about 150m below Tower scoop and the traverse above Tower scoop was complete into Tower gully. There was a big crevasse about 12ft deep at the left side of Tower Scoop as you had predicted. There was sufficient snow in the narrows to continue though.
I enjoyed being back in the snow and it made the descent easier too - the pic attached is of me descending. The other pic is of 4 Munro compleatists from Linlithgow at the summit of Ben Nevis - from right to left - Pete Buck, Paul Birrel Robin Bennie and me.
It would have been 5 Compleatists from Linlithgow if my brother John had been wearing better crampons.
Still it was a great day and a word of warning to anyone who climbs ice in the summer - don't try ice axe arrest without gloves! I have two holes in my knuckles to show that's it's not a great idea..never felt a thing probably due to the drams we had on the summit.

Ken

Well done guys and still snow to climb in July on Ben Nevis,

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 14:41 0 comments
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Perspiring on Skye

Tuesday, 30 June 2009

Descending from the third tower on Pinnacle Ridge. A thought-provoking location.

Scrambling on the WSW Flank of Sgurr nan Eag. A good, but shortish slabby section in the middle leads on to broken ground and a long rough approach to the summit.
The upper section tedium however was lightened by copious carpets of various flowers at around 600-700 metres.

Tormentil

Sea Campion

And carpets of Thyme amidst other colourful species.

If you are looking to avoid ascending Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn enroute to Sgurr Dubh Mor, follow the red line from the foot of Caisteal a Garbh choire. The lower peak can be climbed on returning to the ridge. The route is not completely obvious and not recommended in murky weather.

Climbing on Caisteal a Garbh choire by the South Ridge and West Face. This is by far the roughest and most adhesive rock anywhere in the British Isles. Peridotite knocks southern gritstone into a cocked hat!

For anyone looking to slake their thirst around Coire a Ghrunnda, check out the red dot on this photo. This mossy spring has never dried up to my knowledge and provides the most refreshingly chilled water anywhere high on the ridge. It is only a short descent off of the ridge and for parties considering avoiding the TD Gap it is on the way to a much easier alternative on the south face of Alasdair.

The spring mentioned above.

Blaven from Pinnacle Ridge two days back.

Climbers on Vulcan Wall area (Spock E3/2 - 5c)

Just before the sun hit the face. In the late afternoon or evening this area gets the full blast of the setting sun.

Two evening shots of the Black Cuillin taken from the road to Struan. Must be nice in Birmingham at this time of the year:)

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:43 0 comments
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Dream of White Horses

Sunday, 21 June 2009

Hi Alan
Went over to Angelsey on Friday and done which MUST be one of the best routes in the UK being A Dream of White Horses.
we had minimal wind and bright sun all afternoon and the route and crag ! to ourselves whilst most of north wales appeared wet and windy so its always worthy of a look ! The route will live long in the memory :O)
Jason Wood esquire (climbed with Martin Race and Fraser Campbell)

Thanks Jason. Good pictures of one of the countries best rock climbs. Well done, the three of you.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 14:40 0 comments
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Raven's Edge

Sunday, 7 June 2009

Alan, Did Raven's Edge on Saturday; an excellent mountain route. We found the attached piece of gear en route; what seems to be a (broken!) aluminium peg stamped Peck, and the rusty remains of a genuine nut, both on a piece of old hawser-laid hemp. Wonder when that dates from, and what epic tale it has to tell.

Duncan

Thanks Duncan. Peck were a make of pitons.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 23:20 1 comments
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Success and Failure on Skye

Saturday, 6 June 2009

A couple of weeks back I had a number of groups out on the Black Cuillin Traverse attempt. Out of four groups only one team made it and all in the same period. None of the groups experienced a two day dry slot thoughout the week, even though the timetables were flexible.

Any number of reasons were the cause of disappointment. From a lack of fitness to slow technique on exposed rock or more likely on wet slippery rock. The one team that did succeed was on a one to one basis, very fit and very dogged in pursuit of success. Even in good weather some teams fail due to a lack of fitness and understanding of what is involved.

However, as is clear from these photos and short report from one client it is possible in less than perfect conditions, even though the serious nature of the ridge is increased considerably on wet rock.

On the first day a clear view into Loch Coruisk.

On the second day on Collies Ledge. Very slippery and exposed. A rope is being used for protection.

An evening view from the bivouac.

Hi Alan
Thanks again for sorting my traverse out. Spike has a saying about climbers having a smile like somebody who has found a cookie jar at a party. I am still smiling!
Here are a few shots from our trip, other than the ledge they are from the 1st day, 2nd day was not a good day for taking pics!
The traverse has been a long held ambition for me, I had two fantastic days on the ridge with Spike despite the weather, something to tell the grand kids about!
All the best

and also

Hi Alan,
Just wanted to say thanks for organising my traverse, it was one of the best experiences of my life - I'm still grinning about it now!
Please pass on a huge thank you to Spike, his guiding was excellent and he was good company.
We got lucky with the weather for the northern half of ridge - the dry gabbro was awesome, I wasn't so keen on the wet basalt on the second day though! I still don't know how Spike swum up the T-D gap.
I will send some pics when I get them sorted out if that is ok.

Thanks again

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:52 4 comments
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Carnmore and Flowers

Alan, Just finishing a fantastic two weeks in Skye, Carnmore, Glencoe and Glen Nevis. Belay on Gob attached. It is that time of year again; wonder if anyone might know what this flower is? Found both at Carnmore and on the Buachaille Etive Beag... I thought that it was Mountain Avens, but the colour and leaves are wrong. Duncan

Thanks Duncan. Report and good pictures appreciated as usual. AK

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:35 5 comments
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Sun Rain and Hail

Friday, 5 June 2009

Today was mostly good sunny weather, if a little cold. Some beefy showers towards the end of the afternoon produced hail and most certainly some snow on the higher summits.

We climbed on the East Face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe.

Plenty of good holds, solid rock and high exposure on the top pitch of Quiver Rib.