Westcoast Mountainguides

Slip Slop

2010-03-15T12:52:00.002Z

A big thaw at the moment, but looks like a return to colder weather, especially next week. Tomorrow also looks okay just now. Today started very wet and windy, but the forecast proved okay and now the day is clearing and drier. The photo taken yesterday shows how much snow is still lying on Beinn a'Chaorainn - East Ridge.

Beinn Udlaidh

2010-03-12T23:36:00.008Z

HELLO ALAN.
LOTS GOING ON IT SEEMS.
DAVE G AND I TOOK A TRIP BACK UP BEINN UDLAIDH ON WEDNESDAY. A FABULOUS SUNNY DAY, AND -5 AT THE CAR PARK WHEN WE ARRIVED.
MIXED REPORTS ABOUT THE HILL BUT STILL LOTS THERE.
THE SLOPE ABOVE THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE CRAG STILL HAD A DANGEROUS LOOKING BUILD UP HANGING OVER THE ROUTES, AND WE AVOIDED THIS.
CLIMBED 'WHITE CATERPILLAR', THEN, A VERY STEEP GRADE 4 IN THE MIDDLE SECTION CALLED 'ANTIQUES ROADSHOW'. THIS WAS WELL BUILT UP WITH ICE AND GAVE AN UNRELENTING 150FT CLIMB.
I ATTACH A PHOTO OF THE FIRST ROUTE, AND ONE OF THE WESTERN CLIFFS AS THEY WERE ON WEDNESDAY.

EDDIE WALTHAM.

White Caterpillar

Lost Valley

2010-03-12T23:26:00.002Z

Alan,

Escaped the crowds today up on Lost Valley Minor Buttress; three teams did Chimney Route, which gave two good pitches of IV,4 with ice just where it was needed, Central Scoop at IV,4 and Right Edge, which was easier than the guidebook at III. Freezing level was just about at the base of the crag at 900m, which was lucky, as everything below was dripping. Doubt it there will be much up there by the end of tomorrow....

Duncan Francis

Thanks Duncan. Have you got any crag shots of this area for a winter guide book?

Nevis Action

2010-03-12T21:49:00.007Z

Minus One Gully is reported as 'Skinny' and Minus Two Gully as 'Fat' Loads of action on Orion - Point Five -Hadrian's - Sickle - Zero - Observatory Buttress - Tower Ridge.

Tower Gap 'fixed' belay 'tat'.

Eastern Traverse today,

New steps.

Great Tower today.

Allt a'Mhuilinn Red Deer Stag. These beast appear to be coping well with us climbers. Has anyone heard rifle shots around Ben Nevis this winter?

Lost Crampons

2010-03-11T12:29:00.000Z

Hi Alan

I am missing a pair of Charlet Moser crampons which were in a grey crampon bag. I last had them leaving the CIC hut on Tuesday, they were strapped to the outside of my pack and may have fallen off on the track down or I could have left them at the Ben Nevis car park laying on the ground.
If anybody comes across them you can contact me at ronankkeane@eircom.net

many thanks

Ronan Keane

This week on Ben Nevis

2010-03-11T09:25:00.006Z

Hi Alan,

Many thanks for letting us use your booking spaces in the CIC hut on Sunday and Monday night. We put the opportunity to good use and bagged a couple of classic lines in perfect conditions.
I believe Tony is still trying to squeeze a few more in before he returns to Ireland on Sunday.
attached are a few memorable shots on Vanishing gully, Orion Direct and Green Gully.

Many thanks again

Ronan Keane and Tony Farrell

Thanks guys. If anyone is interested I still have spaces at the hut for the week 21/26th March. Either on a course or self-led.

The traverse out from the 'Second Slab Rib' on Orion Direct.

Green Gully.

Vanishing Gully above the cave.

Climber solo on Zero Gully.

Orion Direct approaching the 'Basin'.

Good conditions on Nevis

2010-03-10T18:27:00.005Z

Reports of good conditions on Ben Nevis with Minus One and Two Gullies receiving ascents. Anything on the East Face of Aonach Mor that catches the sun is falling apart. Routes such as Left Twin will remain good in the shadow for some time to come.

Plenty of good climbing at many locations. Lots of space in The Bunkhouse and also a full refund OR good rock climbing alternatives on winter climbing courses in April if the current cold weather AND good conditions do not continue.

Not to be missed bargains!!!

Hard frost tonight

2010-03-07T22:07:00.004Z

Hi Alan

Please find attached a few pics from our travels this past week – based in Glencoe and Aviemore. Thursday was a superb clear sunny day - we climbed Stob Coire nan Lochain from the Lost Valley – fabulous views. We also saw a “large-format” oil painter at work just down from the Glen Etive road turning (that is dedication for you)! Today we have been up on the Cairngorm Plateau – lots of people around – ski tourers, snow boarders, kite-boarders, climbers and walkers – all having a great time. There is an incredible amount of snow – almost no evidence of boulders on the plateau area at all. A large party were doing a route on Fiacaill Buttress, and we saw one intrepid individual ski down the headwall of Coire an t-Sneachda !
If readers want to see the Cairngorms at their very best, now would be a good time to visit.
Cheers
Roy

Thanks Roy.

Fiacaill Buttress.

Lost Valley crags - Glen Coe.

Lost Valley - Glen Coe

Tonight we have a very hard frost at sea level in Fort William and the conditions must be very good on Ben Nevis I would guess.

Clipper Leashes

2010-03-07T12:53:00.004Z

Can anyone help by commenting on this question below?

Hi

I'm looking for some advice - I've been on a couple of courses with you and would appreciate the experience you bring to this kind of thing.

I use a pair of Grivel Alp Wing axes, they are not state of the art but neither am I. Scottish 4 is about my leading ability but I find myself staggering up things a bit harder every now and then, though not by design. I like the axes so do not want to buy others if I can avoid it - but will if that's what's needed.

I do not winter climb often enough to feel confident leash less or with a spring leash, however I am finding it frustrating to use the lockdown leashes on the axes when things freeze up - removing/replacing a hand to place gear can result in a very interesting time. I would like to try some clipper leashes: but -

DMM clippers rely on a hole in the shaft my axes lack or a combination of bits of tied off cord (as people sometimes do with DMM Flys) and I want to avoid that if I can.

Black Diamond android leash will fit my axes but I have heard
a. they are very good when they work
b. horror stories of unwanted de-clipping.

Do you have any thoughts on the above or any ideas?

Thanks, Geoff

My reply:
Hi Geoff,

Which leashes are you currently using? The Alp Wing are good axes in my opinion and the Grivel leash on the ones I have is pretty simple to release your hand from. I do appreciate that they can freeze up from time to time though. The attached photo shows a similar set of leashes on both a Grivel Alp Wing and a Petzal Aztar. You might want to contact The Mountain Boot Company Ltd. They are the importing agents for Grivel in the Uk and could offer advice. Ask for Steve Roberts on 0191 296 0212. Failing that the BD clipper leashes are okay for most axes and I use them myself to good effect. You should try leash less with lanyards. It is a good system and allows for quicker climbing, especially when fiddling with gear. Make sure you fit one of the Grivel 'Horns' on the foot of both shafts. This in fact takes much of the strain out of climbing without a leash as you rest your hand into the horn. Keep in touch if you need further help.

Alan

Good Climbing

2010-03-07T10:25:00.001Z

The slight thaw was replaced by a cold night. These photos are from yesterday. With a very clear and frosty night forecast, plus settled weather, the week ahead should be very good for climbing.

We have plenty of space at the bunkhouse this week.

A gentle thaw

2010-03-05T22:21:00.002Z

Quite a change in the weather today with a nice gentle thaw setting in. If the forecast, cold and frosty overnight weather materialises the conditions should be pretty good. Still a few spaces left in the CIC Hut next week, for Sunday and Monday night.

Beinn Udlaidh is good

2010-03-04T22:09:00.003Z

Beinn Udlaidh is okay but climbers are avoiding the eastern sector due to a big build up of snow and large cornices. This route is Doctor's Dilema. Thanks to Roger Chaldecott for this picture taken today.

Plenty of action on Ben Nevis today, and Beinn Dothaidh is in good shape. I still have some spare beds in the CIC Hut for Sunday/Monday/Tuesday.

Thanks to Jon Eden for this mellow sunset shot over Loch Eil.

Ben Lomond

2010-03-03T22:30:00.003Z

Thanks to Eddie Waltham for this photo taken recently on Ben Lomond.

HELLO ALAN,
I ATTACH A COUPLE OF PHOTOS OF RECENT STUFF FOR YOU INFO.
VISITING DIFFERENT GROUND IS GOOD FOR US.

AN EXAMPLE WAS CLIMBING ON BEN LOMOND LAST SUNDAY. ANOTHER FAB, SUNNY DAY. WE DID ABOUT 900 FT OF GRADE 3 CLIMBING IN VARIOUS NEVE FILLED GULLIES ON THE NORTH EAST FACE. JUST SOLO, BUT GREAT FUN ON SUPERB NEVE TOO. IT'S BEEN A WINTER OF JUST GOING OUT AND FINDING STUFF. WE HAD ANOTHER GREAT DAY SOLOING ON GREAT NEVE ON THE EAST FACE OF BEN IME. AGAIN. LOTS OF ICE AND NEVE FILLED GULLIES TO GET STUCK INTO... AND NO QUEUES!!
COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO WE WERE ROUND AT CREISE DOING EXACTLY THE SAME. GREAT PLACE TO BE TOO. FEELS FINE AND REMOTE IN THOSE BACK CORRIES.
I WILL ATTACH PICS OF THOSE FOR YOUR INFO.

EDDIE WALTHAM.

Head West

2010-03-03T21:17:00.007Z

The 'Probes' have been out and by all accounts it's business as usual. although please do watch out for pockets of windslab and approach shady slopes with a degree of caution.

N.E. Buttress - Point Five Gully - Orion Face - Minus Gullies - Vanishing Gully to name but a few. The track from Torlundy up to the hut is in very good shape and well trod.

I still have some space at the CIC Hut next week and the weather looks set fair for the duration.

Apparently the Cairngorms are buried, but the road west is now open:)

Thanks to Blair Fyffe for these photos of an avalanche which came down towards the 'Halfway Lochan' recently across the mountain path to Ben Nevis. It's origin was at 1100 metres.

Lakes Ice

2010-03-03T09:18:00.002Z

Steep Ghyll.

Dove Crag Gully.

Hi Alan

Back up soon.Just had two great days in the Lakes with Pete Waiteshore bagging some local mega classics.March 1st and 2nd amazing.Though very warm this afternoon and turning spring like.Dove Crag Gully,Grasmoor and Steep Ghyll, Scafell.Yes there is winter climbing in England!!!!!!!!!!

Owain

Some action

2010-03-02T22:55:00.004Z

One team staying at our bunkhouse climbed The Great Chimney on to Tower Ridge and continued up that route to the plateau. Another team were seen in Point Five Gully and good conditions have been reported on Orion Face.

West Face dangers

2010-03-02T12:53:00.009Z

A significant avalanche has swept the West Face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. It stretched at least as far as the green line marked on the photo below and is clearly visible from the Clachaig Hotel just below that skyline. Clearly any climbers who were on these routes at the time may have perished. I'm not sure when it released but it could have been overnight, thankfully.

The lesson here is to avoid any west facing gullies or open slopes on that aspect for the time being. Even if approaching a buttress or ridge on that aspect climbers might be exposed to large avalanches before and after climbing the ridge.

What is required now is a period of wet weather to consolidate the snow pack and then a refreeze. The current conditions were formed on top of considerable surface hoar, by the 48 hours of blizzard conditions which fell last week. Any melt which takes place needs to be deep, as much of the remaining hazards are set at over a metre down.

This morning at Lagangarbh. We tried valiantly to trek into Curved Ridge, hopeful that others had blazed a trail. We did not even get to the foot of Great Gully. The views were good though!

Cornice feature at Lagangarbh.

Hi Alan,

Just been out for a ski tour today in the Glenshee area noticed a big avalanche debris chute on Creag Leacach, plenty more still to come down on west facing slopes.

Regards

Dave Basford

Thanks Dave. Anyone else with information on big slides, please send them in.

Be Careful

2010-03-01T15:16:00.004Z

The unprecedented snowfall and wind transportation we have experienced recently needs careful attention. Route choice is key to safety, but also consider any slopes above your intended line which may be loaded under some VERY FRAGILE snow profiles. A careful look at all of the current avalanche hazard forecasts on The Scottish Avalanche Information Service Website is strongly recommended

CIC Hut next week

2010-03-01T11:25:00.002Z

If anyone is interested in climbing from the CIC Hut next week, either under instruction or self-led, please get in touch as I have some spare beds.

Thanks

Alan

Taxus is okay

2010-03-01T09:12:00.003Z

Hi Alan

Did Taxus yesterday great condition, totally blow out no soft stuff at all.

Cheers

Andy

From the second week of February

2010-02-28T18:49:00.009Z

Hi Alan and Sue,

I hope conditions are still ok on Ben Nevis and that you are still doing some good guiding.
Thanks again to both of you for making it easier for us with the stories of baggage loss, etc...
We had a fantastic week, the best I ever had on Ben Nevis at the moment.
I send you a short selection of pictures.

We could climb the following routes, all of them in perfect conditions (Curtain a bit dry, a short selection of Camalots is useful for the beginning).
Sunday : Carn Dearg Cascades and 2 first pitches of Vanishing Gully
Monday : Hadrian's Wall. After we saw you at the hut, I climbed alone Point Five
Tuesday : Glovers's Chimney and Pigott's Route, a very nice one, thanks to the Marshall ans Smith week movie makers advice.

Wednesday : Point Five Gully. After turning back to the hut with the clients, I took advantage of the afternoon perfect weather to climb alone Orion Face Direct (at last, 20 years after the first time I climbed it), Zero Gully, Tower Ridge (all of these going down through Tower Gully) and Green Gully before dark, too much starving and a need of whisky. A lot of pleasure, going light and listening hard rock on routes in perfect conditions !

Thursday : Minus Two Gully, exit North East Buttress to the top, a another one I had dreamed of after reading Dougal Haston's book "En haut lieux" in french, when I was young. A very cold day especially on the ridge with clouds and wind.

Friday before taking the bus : The Curtain, very nice with a short mixed section at the beginning and thin ice for a few meters.

I thought it would be my last year with clients, but I will come back, it was too good !

Thanks again,

Rémi

The Great Tower.

Topping out on Point Five Gully.

Hadrians Direct, chimney pitch.

The Curtain

Cairn Toul - Braeriach

2010-02-28T18:44:00.002Z

Thanks to Roger Wild for this photo taken from the Braeriach plateau on a recent ski tour over all the the big eight peaks around the Cairngorm Mountains.

More from last week

2010-02-28T18:09:00.002Z

Hi Alan

Just got back to Bournemouth after a fantastic finish to my annual week North of the Border. What weather, after a rather dismal start. The drive across Rannoch Moor on the way home was unforgettable, and well captured in your recent post.

Here are some contributions taken during a traverse of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete last Thursday, showing the soft conditions, some impressive cornices and the great view across to the Ben. On Friday I was below the West Face of Aonach Mor and noticed a party of four nearing to top of the East Ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach. Looks like an interesting expedition for another year.

Keep up the good work.

Regards

Philip Santo

Thanks Philip. My ISP/Blogger is playing up just now, thus the late posting of your superb pictures. The weather is very similar just now, but much more snow, if that is possible!

Carn Mor Dearg Arete.

Approaching Carn Dearg Meadhonach.

Ben Nevis North Face panorama.

Climbers on the East Ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach. This is a very worthwhile outing.

Ski training

2010-02-28T17:53:00.001Z

Bruce Poll training for an attempt on....Watch this space!

Sgurr Finnisg-aig

2010-02-28T17:25:00.002Z

Good climbing on Sgurr Finnisg-aig and Steall Falls just now, but 'the track' is shut for driving due to deep snow. Oh well, we will just have to walk up with the rest of you folks;-(

Beaten back again by the deep snow on the 'Ben Track'. This time I made an extra 50 metres of progress.

Steall Falls today. Thanks to Tamsin Gay for these photos.

A very sociable day on Steall Falls today.

Sgurr Finnisg-aig yesterday.

Sgurr Finnisg-aig yesterday.