Latest mountain conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

From the second week of February

Sunday, 28 February 2010

Hi Alan and Sue,

I hope conditions are still ok on Ben Nevis and that you are still doing some good guiding.
Thanks again to both of you for making it easier for us with the stories of baggage loss, etc...
We had a fantastic week, the best I ever had on Ben Nevis at the moment.
I send you a short selection of pictures.

We could climb the following routes, all of them in perfect conditions (Curtain a bit dry, a short selection of Camalots is useful for the beginning).
Sunday : Carn Dearg Cascades and 2 first pitches of Vanishing Gully
Monday : Hadrian's Wall. After we saw you at the hut, I climbed alone Point Five
Tuesday : Glovers's Chimney and Pigott's Route, a very nice one, thanks to the Marshall ans Smith week movie makers advice.

Wednesday : Point Five Gully. After turning back to the hut with the clients, I took advantage of the afternoon perfect weather to climb alone Orion Face Direct (at last, 20 years after the first time I climbed it), Zero Gully, Tower Ridge (all of these going down through Tower Gully) and Green Gully before dark, too much starving and a need of whisky. A lot of pleasure, going light and listening hard rock on routes in perfect conditions !

Thursday : Minus Two Gully, exit North East Buttress to the top, a another one I had dreamed of after reading Dougal Haston's book "En haut lieux" in french, when I was young. A very cold day especially on the ridge with clouds and wind.

Friday before taking the bus : The Curtain, very nice with a short mixed section at the beginning and thin ice for a few meters.

I thought it would be my last year with clients, but I will come back, it was too good !

Thanks again,

Rémi


The Great Tower.


Topping out on Point Five Gully.


Hadrians Direct, chimney pitch.


The Curtain


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:49  0 comments
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Cairn Toul - Braeriach


Thanks to Roger Wild for this photo taken from the Braeriach plateau on a recent ski tour over all the the big eight peaks around the Cairngorm Mountains.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:44  0 comments
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More from last week

Hi Alan

Just got back to Bournemouth after a fantastic finish to my annual week North of the Border. What weather, after a rather dismal start. The drive across Rannoch Moor on the way home was unforgettable, and well captured in your recent post.

Here are some contributions taken during a traverse of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete last Thursday, showing the soft conditions, some impressive cornices and the great view across to the Ben. On Friday I was below the West Face of Aonach Mor and noticed a party of four nearing to top of the East Ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach. Looks like an interesting expedition for another year.

Keep up the good work.

Regards

Philip Santo

Thanks Philip. My ISP/Blogger is playing up just now, thus the late posting of your superb pictures. The weather is very similar just now, but much more snow, if that is possible!


Carn Mor Dearg Arete.


Approaching Carn Dearg Meadhonach.


Ben Nevis North Face panorama.


Climbers on the East Ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach. This is a very worthwhile outing.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:09  0 comments
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Ski training

Bruce Poll training for an attempt on....Watch this space!



posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:53  0 comments
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Sgurr Finnisg-aig

Good climbing on Sgurr Finnisg-aig and Steall Falls just now, but 'the track' is shut for driving due to deep snow. Oh well, we will just have to walk up with the rest of you folks;-(


Beaten back again by the deep snow on the 'Ben Track'. This time I made an extra 50 metres of progress.


Steall Falls today. Thanks to Tamsin Gay for these photos.


A very sociable day on Steall Falls today.




Sgurr Finnisg-aig yesterday.


Sgurr Finnisg-aig yesterday.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:25  0 comments
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Loads of Snow

Friday, 26 February 2010


Not much chance of driving up the track to Ben Nevis just now.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:01  1 comments
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Beinn Udlaidh - 24th February

Thanks to Pete Love for these pictures taken earlier this week. Beinn Udlaidh MAY be a POSSIBLE location to climb under the current heavy accumulation of snow. However, route choice and avoidance of any sort of undulations in the slope profile, gullies or open slopes are key to safety.

Quite rightly, climbers are concerned about the avalanche hazard just now, so choose your approach and exit from steep icefalls with great care. As usual any reports of locations that have proved to be possible will be a great help to all of us. HOWEVER, a location which is good at 1200hrs can be lethal at 1400hrs or the next day.

It is so important to continually assess snow properties on a regular basis during the day and climb defensively under the current conditions. I doubt if any of the big routes on Nevis will be approachable for a few days yet and even though the weekend looks set for good weather, please do not be attracted to a potentially dangerous location just because of the blue skies and low temperatures which are forecast.

Take care.


The Smirk, Beinn Udlaidh.


The Smirk Beinn Udlaidh


Junior's Jaunt


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New Snow

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

We are currently experiencing a lot of new snow falling at all levels. A foot of snow fell last night in my backyard and it is still snowing.


This morning


Ben Nevis hitch-hikers, free-loading a ride up the track last week!




Tuesday 23rd February



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Last week in quiet locations

Hello Alan and Sue
I see your photos and comments on Beinn Udlaidh, which caused a stir in numbers on Sunday. When I drove past there were 30 or so cars parked and lines of people heading up. We pulled into a layby further along and consulted the guidebook as I was not prepared to join the crowds. Went to look at Jimmy Dewars Icefall up Auch glen which was thick in its higher part but slight and delicate low down. Further up the track we found another icefall which gave a pleasant steep 4 pitch grade 4 to do. Only a few walkers going up and down the glen and stunning views of the mountains opposite. Monday saw me at Eas Anie again with a different person and the gold miners were in action with there drill rig and otherwise it was total peace and pristine climbing. It is lovely to have untouched ice streaming ahead of you and lovely and thick too.

Hope you are well and busy as I expect you will be.
Best regards Robert

Thanks for this report from Robert Kincaid. Good to see your leg is on the mend.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:45  0 comments
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Cairngorms earlier this week

I have got my broadband back for the time being so: Old report from Monday 22nd February. Today 24th February we have much more snow, so this report is only of archive value I think.

Hi Alan,

Had a spin out today with the thought of a few routes and a wee ski tour. Few folk in Sneachda up to the usual mid to low grade routes. The plateau and surrounding hills are fast becoming tracked out as lots of people out ski touring.

See photos attached, Cascade has now fractured in several places and half of it is on its way to the Loch, melting fast today with the sunshine over the weekend seeing to its demise.
Hells Lum was deserted with tracks into and up The Wee Devil, this looks in good nick although elsewhere a lot of crud and in need of thaw / freeze.
Carn Etchacan was also deserted with no signs on any routes having been done here (no tracks) and a lot of snow on upper section.
Shelterstone had a party or two on Sticil Face with people moving quickly up the ice pitch and upper slabs (looks in good nick), although possibly a lot of snow in the chimney finish as slow to appear from this.
...and Coire an Lochain is on its way to becoming a ski slope...lots of snow on everything!

Hope your enjoying the good weather over there.

Regards

John Lowther



Hell's Lum


Coire an Lochain.




Shelterstone cliffs.


Broken Cascade.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:45  0 comments
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Smith's Gully - Creag Meagaidh

Tuesday, 23 February 2010

Hi Alan,
I said I would let you know how I got on today climbing Orion but after looking at the avalanche forecast for the Ben we decided to go to Creag Meagaidh and climb Smith's Gully. It turned out everyone else had this idea and despite being at the base of the route for 8:30 we had 2 parties in front. The route is in great condition with a large build up of ice on all pitches its also possible to hook up the entire route similar to being in the ice factor.

I've attached some pics for your blog.

Dave


Smith's Gully.


Ken Applegate has left a new comment on your post "Smith's Gully - Creag Meagaidh":

The middle photo is of me, playing around on the inside of what I think is called "The Blue Icicle". It's further up Raeburn's Gully, past Ritchie's Gully. I think it would sport some great single pitch ice (on the outside!).


Smith's Gully

And from Robert Kincaid, below. Thanks Robert:
Hello Alan & Sue
I see your photos and comments on Beinn Udlaidh, which caused a stir in numbers on Sunday. When I drove past there were 30 or so cars parked and lines of people heading up. We pulled into a layby further along and consulted the guidebook as I was not prepared to join the crowds. Went to look at Jimmy Dewars Icefall up Auch glen which was thick in its higher part but slight and delicate low down. Further up the track we found another icefall which gave a pleasant steep 4 pitch grade 4 to do. Only a few walkers going up and down the glen and stunning views of the mountains opposite. Monday saw me at Eas Anie again with a different person and the gold miners were in action with there drill rig and otherwise it was total peace and pristine climbing. It is lovely to have untouched ice streaming ahead of you and lovely and thick too.

Best regards Robert


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:44  1 comments
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Beautiful Weather

Saturday, 20 February 2010

A lack of juice with my broadband has led to a lack of posts. Has anyone had problems with Blogger due to only generating 1.7mbs of broadband power? At least the weather remains on top form and will continue so through the coming week.

Cairngorm plateau, thanks to Danny Goodwin


Vanishing Gully last week and still the same. The ice on the first pitch was just magnificent. This shot shows the second pitch.


Rannoch Moor just now.


Buachaille Etive Mor just now.




Beinn Udlaidh


Beinn Udlaidh is in good shape.


Beinn Udlaidh


Starting on the lower pitch of Peter Pan Direct. Conditions are very good.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:06  2 comments
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Cool

Monday, 15 February 2010

Cold Air Just keeps on coming and looks like continuing to the end of the month. We still have space on a number of courses, plus accommodation at the bunkhouse if you wish to climb independently.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 15:52  1 comments
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New snow high up today

Hi Alan

Curved Ridge on Saturday 13/2 was good fun with little snow low down, although the early traverse step over the gully had a pleasant easy ice pitch in it. More snow higher up but mostly bare/dusted rock on the route until past the cairn. Plenty of snow in/on Crowberry Gap to summit and down into the corrie descent which is easily passed on a beaten track; snow was well consolidated on Saturday and a nice bum slide down part of the way.

As always, a lovely route in magnificent setting.

Cheers
Craig




posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:01  0 comments
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Ledge Route

Sunday, 14 February 2010

Thanks to Nigel Hooker for this photo taken on Ledge Route today.



Conditions on Nevis are pretty good and Orion Face is being climbed, along with plenty of others.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:35  0 comments
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Geo-Caching

Went for a spot of Geo Caching yesterday after climbing Taxus Direct on Beinn Dothaidh. What a fine way to use your Garmin GPS. Digital Orienteering really.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:04  0 comments
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Beinn Dothaidh

Yesterday Beinn Dothaidh was in good shape, although a lot of the snow was pretty soft. The ice on Taxus (Direct) was in fine fettle.






Some small amount of 'breast-beating' has taken place recently from mountaineering committees concerning signage and way marking on the mountains of Scotland. Here is a good example of how some land owners are willing to help climbers and walkers access the mountains through their property. Personally I feel this is a good idea and maybe needed in some spots at higher elevations as well.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:55  1 comments
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A good week

Friday, 12 February 2010

This week has been very good and a selection of stuff is shown below in no particular order. Everything is still pretty much the same and the west is best for climbing just now. The ice of the week goes to Tunnel Vision on Aonach Mor East Face. It was of the 'magnetic ice' variety. That is, ice which just sucks your picks in and hangs on to them. Point Five Gully can be climbed with your eyes closed just now. Just reach up and pull down on your picks and a slot will appear. At least it was like that on Thursday morning!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:40  0 comments
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Ernesto Climbs Ice




Topping out on Tunnel Vision, Aonach Mor


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:35  0 comments
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Fiacaill Couloir - Today


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Beinn Dothaidh






Hi Alan,
Just thought I'd send over a few pics of our day on Taxus. We climbed the Icefall Finish which was in excellent nick making about 7 pitches of awesome climbing. The corrie looked in excellent nick with other teams on Menage a Trois,
cheers
Chris


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:08  0 comments
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Beinn Udlaidh is good




Hi Alan,
Was out climbing on Beinn Udlaidh with Dave Gardniner on Thursday.
The freeze was just the right level and my first time back in some time
We did West Gully, grade III, then South Gully of Black Buttress. A fine grade IV with a tough and steep finish on some brittle ice. This is a feature of many climbs just now.
Some very impressive ice Scenery on the hill, especially a fine ice cave high on West Gully, which two Welsh climbers used as a belay stance.

A word of warning to folk climbing below groups above...Some very big and solid chunks of brittle ice being dislodged and will hurt like hell if you get hit. Unfortunately I can testify to that!

EDDIE

Thanks very much Eddie for this useful report and photos.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:58  0 comments
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Eagle Ridge - Lochnagar


Hi Alan

Arrive sometime tomorrow early evening.Lochnagar today.The place is plastered but with no useful snow or ice so quite challenging!!!!!!!
Did Eagle Ridge with Tim Neill what a route,hard going lots of clearing and no neve anywhere but ace. _Piccys attached.

Regards

Owain


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:45  0 comments
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This week gone

Without an Internet connection (changing ISP's) for this last week and out on the hills every day.

The best climbing is out west, as the Cairngorms are still buried in snow. The ski-ing over east is however, awesome!


Cairngorm Plateau today.


Topping out on Fluted Buttress, Coire an-t Sneachda


Fiacaill Couloir today.


Fine views today over Coire an t-Sneachda


Daim Buttress on Tuesday vi a Spare Rib Gully start.


Tackling the final cornice on the East Face of Aonach Mor.


A view down the Allt Daim from Daim Buttress on Tuesday.


Grey Corries from the Aonach Mor plateau on Tuesday.


A view from the West Face of Aonach Mor on Tuesday last.


Ernesto. All the gear and no idea!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:24  0 comments
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Ben Nevis today

Monday, 8 February 2010

Ernesto returns and is alive and well on Ben Nevis.




The icefalls beneath Carn Dearg Buttress today. A good place to teach leading on WI2.




Hadrian's Wall - Zero Gully - Point Five Gully - Number Three Gully Buttress - Minus Three Gully (looked thin)-Tower Ridge - Vanishing Gully and a host of others no doubt. All have been climbed yesterday or today and the weather is fine.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:54  0 comments
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Stob Coire nan Lochan


SC Gully today.


Thanks to Ian Hey for this report,

Alan

We all climbed SC gully today as a nice sociable outing. It was in good condition and there were not many other parties in the corrie.

Also from the weekend.

Hi Alan,

Was out in Coire nan Lochan and on Church Door Buttress over the weekend with Allan and Dan. Both crags are in good condition with plenty of rimed up rock and useful ice. All in all things are in "proper" nick and need plenty of clearing. We climbed Scabbard Chimney V,6, Twisting Grooves IV,5 and Flake Route Right Hand V,7.


Scabbard Chimney last weekend. Thanks to James Thacker for this report


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:31  0 comments
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Creag Meagaidh

Thanks to Kenny Grant for these photos taken today at Creag Meagaidh.


Busy on the Pumpkin today.


Post Face today.


The Wand today


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:27  0 comments
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Recent Stuff

Thursday, 4 February 2010

Thanks to Tania and Tamsin for dropping off some good photos of their adventures over the last week or so. Nothing much has changed and most (if not all) of these climbs are still in good condition. Well done ladies:-)

Thanks Tania. Check out some of Tania's adventures here


Pumpkin Snow Bunting on 27th January.


Pumpkin on 27th January.


Approaching the 'Mantrap' on N.E. Buttress yesterday.


The 'Forty-Foot' corner yesterday. Graham Stein giving a helping hand.


Tilt on Tuesday.


Tilt on Tuesday.


Moonlighting on Sunday.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:59  0 comments
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More Snow

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Milky damp frontal clouds coming in from the west today. It is now snowing heavily in Fort William at 2300. Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for these photos




West side of Tower Ridge today. Plenty of teams retreating in the soft conditions by all accounts. N.E. Buttress was climbed along with Indicator Wall.


Stob Ban yesterday.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:36  0 comments
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Aonach Eagach yesterday

Thanks to Steve Pattyson for these photos taken on the Aonach Eagach yesterday. A hard day breaking trail by the looks of it. Well done lads and thanks for the photos.




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Tilt - Glen Coe

Hi Alan,
I've been climbing with Tania yesterday, Tilt in Stob C N Lochan which had, possibly, my favourite pitch of climbing ever on it. Stunning day all round, perfect conditions, (not too much clearing) loads of gear, beautiful weather, eyes like saucers and sore shoulders!

Tamsin


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:39  0 comments
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'Bonzer' Weather

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

A day that started murky, turned into a glorious sun-fest and biting cold temperatures. The overnight snow stayed feathery and made some of the pitches on Curved Ridge more difficult than usual. Ridges were certainly the best option today.


The tricky little groove on Curved Ridge at two-thirds height.


Summit views into Glen Coe.




Ben Nevis plastered in fresh snow and spindrift no doubt.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:32  0 comments
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Good conditions in Glen Coe

Monday, 1 February 2010

One team out today in Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe did Inclination VII,8, which was in great shape with good frozen turf, rime and not too much verglas. Other teams on Twisting Gully and Twisting Grooves and SC which looked great bar the occasionally fierce spindrift! Thanks to Kenny Grant for this report.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 19:21  0 comments
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© Alan Kimber, Calluna, Heathercroft, Fort William, PH33 6RE, Scotland
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