Latest mountain conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

New Snow

Sunday, 31 January 2010

Plenty of action in the ditch on the forestry track today, with various vehicles and drivers not able to handle the new snow late in the day. Snow chains needed for those fortunate few with a key to the gate! Stringfellow was climbed today. Reports suggest that the high ice is not forming well and Psychedelic Wall is not in good shape.

Tania Noakes climbed Sunday on Pas de deux and just back from great climbing up in the Lost Valley on Moonlighting. Teams were on Directasaur, and Neanderthal, which just goes to prove that lower turfy routes might just be better bets.

West Chimney yesterday, which is still is amazing nick according to Chris Walker.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 23:27  5 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Pointblank

Pointblank received a rare (2nd?) ascent yesterday by Owen Samuel and Iain Small. Well done guys.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:44  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Point Five Gully

Thursday, 28 January 2010

I climbed Point Five Gully today with Erik and his guide Ian
 The middle pitch was very wet and had some mighty big holes through to the rocky waterfall underneath! To be in good shape the gully needs another freeze, but that may not be too far away. The first pitch was good and the last hard pitch was okay as well. Above all major difficulties the climbing was very enjoyable and the cornice not too much bother.


Erik exiting the hard third pitch.


Erik in the neck of the second (Chimney) pitch above some big wet holes in the ice.


Erik on the first pitch.


Ian on the first pitch.


Ian starting up the second (Chimney) pitch before experiencing some fairly 'full Scottish' conditions and a distinct lack of good protection.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:22  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Creag Meagaidh

Wednesday, 27 January 2010








Thanks to Doug Spalding for these pictures taken in Coire Ardair recently. We have a good freeze thaw cycle running through at the moment and plenty of Arctic air descending across Scotland from this afternoon onwards. There is still plenty of good ice all over the place and the higher routes should be in good shape. Hopefully I'm off up to Point Five Gully tomorrow and will report back on conditions from Ben Nevis tomorrow evening.

Also check out Paul Cunningham Thanks Paul


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 09:42  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Soggy in the 'Gorms'

Tuesday, 26 January 2010

We are having a rest day today after walking into the northern corries early this morning and being rained on with very soggy snow underfoot...Meagaidh was ace yesterday, we did the Pumpkin with stella views bomber ice and no cornice... teams on Last Post and Centre Post and some other team decided to follow us up the Pumpkin as well.

Thanks Tania. Check out some of Tania's adventures here


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:31  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Staghorn Gully


Hi Alan,
We had a fun day on Staghorn Gully on Saturday. The North Pipe gave a couple of good pitches however us pensioners just can't hang on to gear anymore. My Cassin 'bronze museum piece' of a drive-in was dropped from the top of the steep pitch on the pipe and the shiny ice screw staring in the picture below also went AWOL. I'm surprise we managed not to lose ourselves. A small reward will be offered if anyone finds either piece!!
All the best from the old folks home.
Douglas

and later

Alan,
Thought I'd drop you a quick note of thanks for demonstrating the benefits of Cyberworld in helping to get lost gear back to its forlorn owner. You'll remember my buddy and I lost a drive in on Staghorn a couple of weeks back.
The lovely lady below us on the route did a grand job and I received my 'cassin museum piece' through the post yesterday. Hope to use it on Meagaidh again this weekend!!
Thanks again
Douglas


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:09  6 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Mountain Festival Fort William

Mountain Festival Fort William

Fort William Mountain Festival
11th to 15th February 2010
Andy Kirkpatrick hosts the Extreme Night.
Paul Diffley from Hot Aches screening Single Handed plus The Asgard Project on the Adventure Night.
Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner celebrate Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith's incredible first ascents on Ben Nevis 50 years on with Jimmy Marshall himself.
Best of Banff World Tour.

Are Dave and Andy going to cut steps up Orion Face Direct? Has it ever had a second ascent cutting steps?


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:14  2 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Rjukan buried in snow

Monday, 25 January 2010

Just spent an extremely enjoyable weekend working away in Norway. Rjukan has a lot of snow, which means that travel to multi-pitch routes or between pitches on the easier grade WI/II climbs can be DEEP! However the shorter routes close to the road in the Gorge Sector are very approachable and have good ice. In places it is 'bullet-proof' so good sharp tools are required, but other routes are a touch softer and much less hard work. We climbed:

  • Tungtvann with an abseil in from the top with both the final L-Hand finish (WI.4) and R-Hand finish (WI.3)
  • Camillas Foss (WI.3)
  • Pentium (WI.3)
  • Swiss Army with a simple (WI.2) finish on the L-Hand slab and a WI.3/4 start
  • Lillebror (WI.3)
  • Knerten (WI.3)
  • LP-plata (WI.3)
  • Hjemreisen (WI.4)
  • Kursruta (WI.3)
  • Grade WI.2 slab opposite Hjemreisen back to the road!
We noticed headtorches on a couple of the longer routes ;-)






posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:52  2 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Taxus Direct

Thursday, 21 January 2010




Hello Alan

Back on the hills yesterday on a very wild day up on Beinn an Dothaidh above Achallader. We were actually nuts going up on such a day but persisted and managed to climb Taxus Direct which was quite thin with plenty of spindrift pouring down over us. Hard going and we had another night time descent. Not fun in poor conditions. Need to get up earlier. A couple of pictures attached. The final pitch was pretty thin, especially the exit under the chockstone.

Eddie

Thanks Eddie,
You are really 'Old-school', the pair of you. I remember Davie & Co in the 70's going up Nevis in almost any conditions, just in case the weather changed or something took their fancy. Persistent buggers! Good to see the pair of you using shoulder belays and Dachstein Mitts last week in Glen Coe - memories :-)


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 13:04  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Good Conditions

Wednesday, 20 January 2010

West Chimney today on Bidean nam Bian in about grade III 'nick'. A great route and in really good condition. Thanks to Cio and Tamsin for this report. Also the ice bulges beneath Central Gully on Stob Coire nam Beith are giving good sport over two pitches before abseil descent according to Chris Walker. Very windy on Ben Nevis today. Conditions are certainly getting good after the thaw. A few freeze/thaw cycles are on the way, so it should remain good for some time hopefully. Curved Ridge was also in good shape today.

Hi Alan, Yes a good route (Chimney Route) although I suspect that Cio might have been a bit harsh with the grade, definitely easier but maybe IV,4!

Did Raeburn's Buttress today on the Ben. Not on ideal condition as there wasn't much ice where you pull out of the cave, probably tech 6 rather than IV,5.

James


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:55  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


A M I

Monday, 18 January 2010

This weekend was taken up offering further training to trainee mountain instructors and guides. The two days were organised by AMI with help from myself and James Thacker We were also ably assisted by Blair Fyffe, one of Scotland's most knowledagable young avalanche observers. Check out what Blair gets up to on Dave Macleod's Blog when he is not digging holes in the snow searching for avalanche hazard clues.


Security on steep ground and confidence roping.


Blair in his element!


Blair and Tania sampling 'full' Scottish conditions.


A large number of instructors now use Paramo kit in the winter. Out of ten who attended, seven found the warmth and protection of Paramo to their liking.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:55  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


No 6 Gully - Season Ticket!! - Hopefully

Thursday, 14 January 2010


Stob Coire nam Beith with plenty of opportunities.


No 6 and No 5 Gullies today.


Wee bit turf on the top pitch of No 6 Gully today.


4th Pitch of No 6 Gully today. The main pitches are still in good shape, but the thinner pitches are looking sparse. Today the ice was rather wet, but still very enjoyable.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:24  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


No 6 Gully - Glen Coe

Wednesday, 13 January 2010


Hello Alan,nice to meet you on No 6 Gully. Boy, did we appreciate you guys footprints to follow off rather than dangerous snow in the dark, thanks for that! Down safe and sound. Home at eleven mind, after a couple of quick pints in Inverarnan!
Eddie,


A great day out on No 6 Gully, West Face of Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe. The ice conditions are very good, but the snow is deep and unconsolidated. Certainly worth a visit though, before the awful weather which looks set to move through on Friday and Saturday.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:14  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Lost Gear - Please return if found

Tuesday, 12 January 2010

Hi Alan

I mailed you re Eas Anie on Sunday- could you oblige greatly and put up a post re a lost Petzl Quark clip on Leash, dropped somewhere from top of climb on path to where folks kitted up. If any finders could reunite me with it, I'd be very grateful. If found please call me on 07939.414050.

Many thanks

Rgds
Craig


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 13:44  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Eas Ani

Hi Alan

Update on Eas Anie on Sunday- awesome climb on great ice of over 450 ft. Very busy day with plenty of ropes on the route. Best day ever climbing for me- great day with lots of friendly teams out- thanks to Paul and Kevin for sharing their ice screws with us (to save time and travel faster..we did have enough!). Pic of upper pitches attached.

See you in Feb.
Cheers
Craig




posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 09:59  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Blue Riband

Monday, 11 January 2010


Hi Alan,

Popped down to do Blue Riband today with Ian Hey, good ice and taking screws well. Sadly the last pitch has seen a bit of hammer and isn't really easily climbable at the moment.

Attached are a couple of pictures, brief bit on the blog at James Thacker

Cheers

James

Thanks James


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:24  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Winter Lectures


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 15:59  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Global Warming?


Thousands gather to protest Global Warming!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:56  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Loch Awe - Pass of Brander

Hi Alan
I see the people in the photo on Eagle Falls Inverarnan. David Goldie and I climbed at the same time but on the R as did Mark Leyland Arrochar MRT and Charles. Pity the steep top icicle was so airiated and brittle. We approached via the watercourse which added a new dimension to 'mixed route' climbing frozen logs and traversing part frozen pools. Only one wet foot and a bit of spray.
Another low route in good nick is Lumberjack Falls in Pass of Brander Loch Awe. It will give 3 good pitches with access by canoe, boat or foot. Parking is just above Tervine farm on the Kilchrenan road with a walk in via the lochside or up to and over the bealach mor 400m east of the climb with a steep grassy/bracken slope to descend to the start. There are also a few other watercourses in close proximity that look like they would go. Even if a thaw starts the deep cold will not let the ice melt much or fast. Good New Year to you and Sue
Robert

Thanks Robert


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:56  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Last weeks pictures

Alan,
Here's some photos that I took from the winter climbing course.
Thanks for a great week. Darren


Aonach Mor plateau in recent weeks.


Steall Falls last week.


Topping out on Aonach Mor


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:48  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Stob Ban

Sunday, 10 January 2010


The Devil's Ridge on Sgurr a'Mhaim today from the flank of Stob Ban.


Stob Ban East Ridge


Raised footprints. A good sign of wind scouring and possible snow stability at that point. Ben Nevis beyond,


More raised foot prints. Thanks to Nick March for these photos taken today.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:16  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Stob Coire nam Beith

Had an awesome day yesterday on North West Gully Direct Start, Stob Coire nam Beith. Two very steep pitches and then endless pitches of mountaineering!

Cheers Kenny

Kenny Grant
MIC Mountain Instructor


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:07  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Eagle Falls


Thanks to Eddie Waltham for this photo of Davie Gardner on Eagle Falls at the head of Loch Lomond above the Inverarnan Hotel from last Friday. Above the 300ft main pitch were lost of shorter ice pitches. A memorable day and a once in a lifetime opportunity.

Thanks Guys.

________________________________________


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:54  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Lake District magic

Saturday, 9 January 2010

Hi Alan

We are just back from a week in the Lake District – conditions were truly excellent. Derwentwater is essentially frozen over, as are many smaller tarns and lakes.

I’m attaching a selection of pics which you might care to post on the blog. We were on Helvellyn on Thursday – ascended from the Swirls Car park, and then went down Striding Edge and back up Swirral Edge – more or less had Striding Edge to myself – too good to miss.

I’m hoping to make it up to Western Scotland soon – and am hoping the clear cold conditions will persist for another month or so.

Best wishes

Roy

Thanks Roy Alan



Striding Edge


Extreme skier heading down to Red Tarn on Helvellyn.


Blencathra from Helvellyn.


View to Coniston from Helvellyn


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:07  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Grey Mare's Tail


Alan

Here are some shots of the Grey Mares Tail which I climbed yesterday.
Get them on your website then watch the stampede......
Stunning almost alpine conditions. The route is in superb condition with fat ice on both left and right hand lines (the central bit is still running water). The ice is plentiful and mainly solid with just a few patches of crud. On all the steep bits the ice is bomber just when you need.
Blue skies, crisp, cold and clear. A couple of parties up from the Lakes and all very civilised.
Roads from Edinburgh to Moffat via Peebles are treacherous. Best to go down the M74 to Moffat then approach from the south.

Hope to see you soon.

Best

Cliff


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:58  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Steall Falls

Friday, 8 January 2010




A fine day out on Steall Falls today and very busy on both the left and right-hand side lines. The central section requires a snorkel, but that has always been the case. Take at least six or eight ice screws to be safe. On both sides it is possible to abseil easily from trees or walk down in many places.

The road in Glen Nevis is very slippy and chains are advised.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:49  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Fine day again

Hi Alan

I hope you are enjoying the weather.
Conditions on the CMD Arete were superb today, hard snow and hardly a breeze all day. The final slopes from the abseil posts are all now well scoured and hard snow at last!
Cheers

Gary

Thanks for that report Gary




posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:44  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Ledge Route

Thursday, 7 January 2010




Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for these two shots taken on Ledge Route yesterday.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:51  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Stella Weather


Photo courtesy of David Eadie and the one below, which shows abseiling over the cornice on Easy Gully. Thanks David.


Today I went down Easy Gully on Aonach Mor (by abseil). Initially the snow was quite solid, but lower down we found a few mysterious layers in the snowpack and decided against wading over to Central Buttress in very deep unconsolidated snow. A quick shuffle to the south and we climbed back up some interesting little grade II/III routes of three pitches. The cornice was okay, but further left again it became rather intimidating and the snow on the top apron of the route was fairly 'cruddy'.


Not a very clear view, but in the distance the Black Cuillin can be seen from Aonach Mor today.


Fairly meaty cornice exits on many of the Aonach Mor East Face climbs.


Topping out in wonderful weather today.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:51  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Beinn Udlaidh is good

Wednesday, 6 January 2010






Plenty of opportunity for grade IV icefalls at Beinn Udlaidh. The harder routes may require some imagination. Glorious weather in the west and no big problems on the roads if you have good tyres and chains or a 4x4 with chunky tyres, especially in Glen Nevis.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:50  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Failed 4X4

Tuesday, 5 January 2010

Many happy climbers on Steall Falls today, meanwhile a mixed team with 'some' from the east failed to get their vehicle to the head of Glen Nevis.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 19:00  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Steall Falls last Saturday

Monday, 4 January 2010




posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:46  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Quiet on Ben Nevis

Sunday, 3 January 2010


Another very good day on a very quiet Ben Nevis. Hardly anyone climbing and certainly no teams on any technical routes or the 'Classics'.




Very clear and dry air with views in all directions.

Ledge Route is in good shape.






Routes such as Vanishing Gully and Italian Climb do have some build-up, but I'm not too sure of the quality of the ice.


One area that does look promising and not too long a walk in is the ice apron area below Carn Dearg Butterss. Plenty of good ice from grade III/IV and beyond. The belays at the top can be a problem as the short routes finish on a big ledge of loose blocks. However, with care it should be possible to secure the rope or maybe use ice screws as an alternative. Waterfall Gully also looks to be in reasonable shape. The Curtain is not worth looking at just now as the first pitch looks extremely 'thin'.






posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:46  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Fine day in Coire nan Tulaich

Saturday, 2 January 2010


A view towards Ben Nevis from Stob Dearg (Glen Coe) today. A very fine winter's day. Plenty of good little icefalls in Coire nan Tulaich and also some good mixed routes on the east-facing flanks. Also a short walk-in and the snow appears to be stable as the corrie has been scoured mostly by the current wind direction.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:46  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Blue Riband

Friday, 1 January 2010


Thanks to Tamsin Gay for this photo of Blue Riband (Glen Coe) which she climbed today with Tim Blakemore. Fairly fragile by all accounts.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:15  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


© Alan Kimber, Calluna, Heathercroft, Fort William, PH33 6RE, Scotland
T: +44 (0)1397 700451 | F: +44 (0)1397 700489
E: