Can anyone help by commenting on this question below?
Hi
I'm looking for some advice - I've been on a couple of courses with you and would appreciate the experience you bring to this kind of thing.
I use a pair of Grivel Alp Wing axes, they are not state of the art but neither am I. Scottish 4 is about my leading ability but I find myself staggering up things a bit harder every now and then, though not by design. I like the axes so do not want to buy others if I can avoid it - but will if that's what's needed.
I do not winter climb often enough to feel confident leash less or with a spring leash, however I am finding it frustrating to use the lockdown leashes on the axes when things freeze up - removing/replacing a hand to place gear can result in a very interesting time. I would like to try some clipper leashes: but -
DMM clippers rely on a hole in the shaft my axes lack or a combination of bits of tied off cord (as people sometimes do with DMM Flys) and I want to avoid that if I can.
Black Diamond android leash will fit my axes but I have heard
a. they are very good when they work
b. horror stories of unwanted de-clipping.
Do you have any thoughts on the above or any ideas?
Thanks, Geoff
My reply:
Hi Geoff,
Which leashes are you currently using? The Alp Wing are good axes in my opinion and the Grivel leash on the ones I have is pretty simple to release your hand from. I do appreciate that they can freeze up from time to time though. The attached photo shows a similar set of leashes on both a Grivel Alp Wing and a Petzal Aztar. You might want to contact The Mountain Boot Company Ltd. They are the importing agents for Grivel in the Uk and could offer advice. Ask for Steve Roberts on 0191 296 0212. Failing that the BD clipper leashes are okay for most axes and I use them myself to good effect. You should try leash less with lanyards. It is a good system and allows for quicker climbing, especially when fiddling with gear. Make sure you fit one of the Grivel 'Horns' on the foot of both shafts. This in fact takes much of the strain out of climbing without a leash as you rest your hand into the horn. Keep in touch if you need further help.
Alan
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