Latest mountain conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Fiacaill is thin

Saturday, 28 February 2009




Fiacaill Couloir is still in reasonable if thin 'nick'. Various other routes on the gully walls require some imagination to be considered wintry!


Still a reasonable snow cover on the plateau. Today was spring-like ahead of the incoming cold wintry week ahead of us.


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Kitchen Sink

Friday, 27 February 2009


Thanks to these lads, Gerwyn Lloyd and Matt Sutton for downloading some rubbish from the CIC Hut today. The SMC are in the process of clearing up the site, but welcome any help they can get from us helpful climbers.


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More lost Gear

This is from a while back (13th Feb). Did anyone pick up a pair of DMM Flys and a pair of Kohla walking poles at the Lagangarbh car park in Glen Coe? Please contact me and I'll reunite them with the owner. Thanks.


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Found some gear

Thursday, 26 February 2009

Hi Alan, I found an ice hammer on the bum slide in the Red Burn this afternoon. If you could mention it on your blog I'm sure we can make someones day!


Phil Ashby

Thanks Phil. An accurate description should be enough to find the rightful owner.


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West and East still Climbing

These pictures are a few days old.


Temperance Union Blues.


Fiacaill Couloir


Hi Alan
Just back from a few days in Aviemore and Aonach Mor; Fiacaill Couloir
in reasonable nick with the final chockstone a bit thin; Hell's Lum a
busy bath and Temperance Union Blues in pretty reasonable condition.
Pick of exit from F/Couloir & 1st pitch of TUB attached. Great
conditions site...keep up the good work.
Cheers Craig

Thanks Craig, appreciated.


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Still Climbing

Received this morning from the CIC Hut by email, but I feel it may have related to yesterday. The 'International Meet' are out in force on the few winter routes left to climb in Britain. As usual these are on the west coast of Scotland:-))

Dear Alan

We climbed Indicator Wall and Tower Scoop both of which were in fine condition. Teams we're climbing on Comb Gully Smiths Route Good Friday Climb. A team tried Point Five but retreated due to spindrift however the route looks complete. Psychedelic Wall looked very thin but looked like it was starting to form after todays weather. I'm waiting for an update on the Brenva Face - some of the BMC meet were checking it out.

Will provide further update tomorrow.

Gerwyn Lloyd and Matt Sutton

Next week looks set to BLAST winter back and some!


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Getting Colder

Wednesday, 25 February 2009

Cold Weather Coming for a week or so, starting at the weekend. It will not be settled, but it will produce plenty of snow on Scottish hills. Maybe more in the east.


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Wintry Showers


Looking towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach, Glen Coe today. Thin but solid cover and the old snow was re-freezing quickly in the cold conditions.


View towards Stob Coire nan Lochan.


Diamond Buttress, Central Gully and Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian.


View across Lost Valley Buttresses. There is more snow on them than is obvious from below.


Lost Valley Buttresses from below.


The view down Central Gully on Bidean. Certainly in good grade I/II shape today. Thanks to Tom Parkin for these photos.

News in from Ben Nevis today was good on Number Three Gully Buttress. One team backed off of Point Five Gully in the face of incessant spindrift.


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Cloud free in the Cairngorms

Tuesday, 24 February 2009


Lots of rockfall and ice falling down around Fingers Ridge in Coire an t'Sneachda today. Thanks to Nick March for these photos.




View across Coire an t'Sneachda today.


Loch Avon basin today


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Getting cooler


Coire Leis today with ice on the Little Brenva Face.

Cooler weather looks set to arrive slowly. This will further harden and stabilise what is still left. Plenty of ice on the Little Brenva Face today and reports drifting in from Cairngorm report a decent day. Watch out for anyone above you knocking off rocks and ice.

The recent thaw was thankfully very slow, which has not led to a big stripping of higher routes. The very cold weather of two weeks ago did set in place a lot of ice, which has proved stubbornly stable in some places. It's not great, but climbing is still possible and hopefully some wintry weather will start to re-establish more widespread conditions at lower level. A lot of ridges are stripped back badly just now, but hey, it's only mid February and still a couple of months of winter (at least) to go, hopefully.


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Ring my Bell

Monday, 23 February 2009

Thanks to all you kind folk out there who have something good to say about West Coast Mountain Guides. There are still places on a number of courses, so feel free to give us a call. Check out Fancy a course for more feedback.

Also Chris Walker was mentioned. Thanks to James Thacker for the information showing feedback on UK Climbing


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Today it was not so wet

Sunday, 22 February 2009

Hi Alan,I forgot to tell you I saw teams on No 2 gully Buttress, Tower Scoop, Upper Cascade, Tower Ridge, Smiths, .5, Good Friday Climb, Indicator Wall and Tower Gully through the murk. Not many folk on the plateau or tourist route. Ice building on some of last week's thin routes.

Thanks Spike

I have also heard of some teams having to retreat from various of the above routes, so conditions are suspect in places.


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CIC Hut Clean Up

Saturday, 21 February 2009

Can anyone heading down the hill from the CIC Hut, please carry out any builders rubbish and other stuff they can lift and leave it at the upper car park? Your help would be appreciated. Leave the concrete mixer if you cannot manage to lift it. Thanks.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 19:19  5 comments
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Sub Aqua Grade XII

Hosing down on Glover's Chimney today. It's amazing how the ice is hanging in, although rather liquid in places! A reduction in the temperature tonight should slow down the thaw process and the week ahead looks like a series of freeze thaws if we are lucky.


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Not to bad considering

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Hi Alan, As promised, No.2 was great today, new ice was forming near the plateau. Glovers had traffic, as did Green Gully and Comb. Central Gully and Right Hand were in. The soggy snowpack was very firm today. The forecast looks like things will get better too. The harder mixed cliffs are empty of snow, but high up Indicator wall will probably be good. Looking down an escape able Gardyloo, Caledonia and Shot in the Dark looked well in after the overnight high freeze. Cascade would be climbable, especially if you had one of those drinks that gives you wings, although any ice screw placements may have sprung a leak. People were also climbing out pretty vertically from Tower Gully. The good old North Face of the Ben is more than hanging in there, and has survived the warm week very well! Speak soon Bruce


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Wet

Tuesday, 17 February 2009


A somewhat busy (crowded) day in the east today. Maybe a congestion charge could be implemented in the Northern Corries. We followed the crowds into Fiacaill Couloir, before heading up the right wall and relative peace and quiet on Trampled Underfoot (IV.4). Wellington boots required on the walk in to Sneachda.


The Seam.


The final moves on Invernookie


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Found some gear

Monday, 16 February 2009

A little two-way radio was handed in today. Let me know where you lost it and I'll arrange for it to be reacquainted with its owner. Miserable out on the western hills today.


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Carn Dearg Meadhonach

Sunday, 15 February 2009


Carn Dearg Meadhonach East Ridge




Hi Alan,

Just got home from a fantastic week in bonnie Scotland. Thank you so much for including our little venture onto Carn Dearg Meadhonach and then the CMD etc, on your fantastic web site. I have been taking summer and winter trips to Scotland for the past thirteen years and have always monitored your web page for the conditions. (especially for winter)I have found it an invaluable winter planning tool. Pre computer I would ring you and you always seemed eager to help. Thank you for that.
It has long been a small ambition to be mentioned on your daily reports and so all three of us are thrilled to be included on it. It is the cherry on the iced cake.I have just attached some photos of the day having downloaded them moments ago on arrival at home. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have enjoyed your shots.

See you on the hill one day,

Kind regards

Mark Atkin

Thanks Mark. Always a pleasure to share other folks adventures on the blog. Alan


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Dorsal Arete - Glen Coe


Alan,

Hope triumphd over experience today, and we went up into Stob Coire nan Lochan, even though it was 8 degrees in the Coe. Tried Ordinary Route, but it was just dripping rock and moss. SC Gully was empty of ice, and SC Gully was just wet sugar. Finished up on a mass solo of Dorsal Arete, along with the rest of those daft enough to venture up there! Boomerang Gully was the only other route being climbed.

Duncan


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Still Ice to Climb

Some teams ventured on to Point Five Gully today and came back very damp, but still breathing! Later in the week seems cooler and then conditions will dry up and consolidate. Could be good.


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Cooler at the end of the week

Saturday, 14 February 2009


Eagle Falls - Glen Ogle


Curved Ridge

Alan,
Curved Ridge was still in surprisingly good condition today, with a number of parties on it. Should stay good for a while yet. The ice pitches at the bottom are good value. My mates climbed Eagle Falls above Glen Ogle; as you can see, the ice was pretty good.

Duncan

Thanks Duncan. Great stuff.


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Slow Thaw


Plenty of ice around, even on the track to the North Face Car Park. Forestry have closed the road due to packed ice making it slippy. Sensible climbers have invested in chains to make travel a little easier. It's not too far to walk from the new parking spot.


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Carn Dearg Meadhonach

Friday, 13 February 2009

Thanks to Mark, Shelley and Paul for reporting this fine ridge is in good shape. It will be effected by the thaw, but still a good day out at an easy grade (II), accessible from Aonach Mor gondola. The team continued over the CMD Arete and Ben Nevis.


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No 6 Gully going down


No 6 Gully Direct Finish


No 6 Gully Main Pitch

Alan,

Having waited several years to catch it in condition, followed the crowd up No 6 Gully on Aonach Dubh today. As you can see, it is still climbable, but thawing badly; it wasn't freezing, even at the top. The Direct Finish was in, but very thin. Two mates also climbed The Screen; the first pitch was excellent, but the second was spouting water, and will probably have gone by tomorrow. Stob Coire nam Beith was looking very snowy, with a fair amount of ice in Central Gully and Crack Climb, and lots of snow in the easier gullies, but not looking very frozen. Not looking good for the weekend, but a good freeze will bring in some outstanding climbing.


Duncan


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Meltdown

A mild spell for a while, unfortunately. A slow thaw. The ice of recent weeks should stay around, but will be very wet. The lower routes will fall down, especially on cliffs such as the West Face of Aonach Dubh. Beinn Udlaidh yesterday was 'frightening' according to a few wide-eyed teams who came back alive!


Tunnel Vision the day before yesterday,


Thanks to Chris Walker for these three photos.


Yesterday on Curved Ridge.


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Getting Warmer

Thursday, 12 February 2009

What a difference 24 hours can bring. Yesterday crystal clear weather on Tower Ridge and today mild and murky on Curved Ridge. However, todays damp conditions could prove beneficial in sorting out the snowpack , which has not been consolidating in the continual cold weather. A number of teams had been reporting very brittle ice on the majority of Nevis ice climbs. Some of the higher routes such as Orion Face Direct are not in any sort of good condition due to a lack of freeze/thaw.


Today on Curved Ridge.


Lower pitches on Tower Ridge yesterday.


Fine views from Tower Ridge, looking east,


Eastern Traverse on Tower Ridge yesterday.


Gardyloo Buttress is in good shape and should outlive any major thaw due to its altitude.


Approaching the start of Tower Ridge via Douglas Gap Gully East,


Not much snow on the summit of Ben Nevis if you consider that snow can cover the trig point or at least be level with the door of the summit shelter!


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West Face of Aonach Dubh

Tuesday, 10 February 2009





Good conditions on Number Six Gully, West Face of Aonach Dubh. Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for the report. Elliots Downfall has not yet touched down.


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West Face of Aonach Dubh

Number Six Gully again



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Blue Riband - Glen Coe

Monday, 9 February 2009


Blue Riband - Glen Coe is in thin, but climbable shape. check out Adam Hughes for more details.


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Number Six Gully


West Face of Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe. Number Six Gully and an easy walk in. Thanks to Adam Hughes


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Dorsal Arete - Glen Coe

Thanks to Campbell Walker for these three pictures below, taken on Dorsal Arete today in Glen Coe.






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Aonach Mor Good




Spare Rib Gully - West Face of Aonach Mor. Andy Ravenhill




Hi Alan,
Heres a couple of pics from the weekend, awesome weather!
cheers
Chris Walker


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Welsh Stuff


Hi Alan,
We chose somewhere quiet for Saturday, but were a couple of freeze/thaw cycles early at Gist Ddu. Real hard men would have topped out, but we only made it a third of the way up the 2nd pitch. The photos show the condition of the top wall for anyone who fancies a try.
Cheers, Ian + Chris.


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Ice Screw for collection please

Hi there.

I had to leave an ice screw behind on the third pitch of point five gully on sunday whilst retreating due to spin drift. I wondered if you might place a message on your blog to ask if anyone finds it. Its a 14cm grivel helix screw marked with grey tape.

Many thanks, Alex Pickard

07966 897949 alex_pickard28@hotmail.com


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Green Gully

Just a quick note for the blog to say we did Green Gully today. It was in good nick, especially the final direct ice pitch. Care needed on the approach due to a bit of windslab.

Thanks, keep up the very useful blog.

Andy Barker.


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Crampons and Axe essential on UK Hills


Cobbler




Hi Alan,

Was out on Saturday intending to do something on The Cobbler, but couldn't resist the ice smears on the south side of Ben Narnain !!! No screws but managed some single pitch ice in glorious baking sun, no wind with a fab back drop.

Regards

Alastair MacLean


Hi Alan,
Another for you collection. Barnaby the Bear was a little rascal who accompanied us up both Mount Kenya & Kilimanjaro back in 2004. He was a from my local kindergarten school where the 2nd year kids were studying Africa and Barnaby was their class mascot. Such is his fame Doug Scott even used his picture in a CATreks catalogue!

Just a word about conditions down here in the Lakes. The MR Teams are warning of the necessity to have the correct gear including ice axe & crampons on even the high walks. I can vouch for this as normally fairly innocuous route yesterday was well iced and would have been lethal without crampons. 2 were killed in separate incidents only last week in Great Langdale. We met an MR team late in the day yesterday on our return and they were on their second shout searching for a couple of missing scousers.

All the best and many thanks for your blog which I check everyday just to make myself envious!

Harold Webb


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Good Ice in Spare Rib Gully

Sunday, 8 February 2009

Spare Rib Gully has good ice on the West Face of Aonach Mor. The continuation above on Daim Buttress has a significant amount of fresh snow that will slow progress.


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Curved Ridge is Good

No pictures, but a team just arrived home from Curved Ridge and says it is in good shape and not too much snow to wade through. Some good little ice pitches at the start to vary the climb. The descent down Lagangarbh Corrie was okay.


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Bear Facts


Here is a picture of Archie on the top of Mont Blanc perched on the trusty stubai ice axe - still going strong. Archie is the Arcadia Housing Group mascot and accompanied me to the summit. He has also been all round the world with different staff members but this is the highest he has been as he does suffer a bit from the altitude!

regards

Mike Day
Axbridge Somerset

Thanks Mike. Sitting on that axe is certainly bringing a smile on to Archie. A happy little Bear! Sounds like you have a ton of snow in Somerset just now.


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Lakes looks good




Who is that gentleman offering a friendly hand on the tricky step?


Hi Alan,
Just thought I'd drop you a couple of photos taken on Saturday of Striding edge on Helvelyn.
For those who can't quite make the distance to Scotland, the Lakes are currently enjoying superb conditions.
Whilst for many its was the classic Helvelyn horseshoe- Striding Edge and descent via Swirrral Edge, however even the gullies up onto the summit plateau were getting attention today.
Thanks for your website, it provides daily inspiration and brings back happy memories of winter climbing in Scotland.
The Met website (Mountain area forecast - Lakes) provides updated daily condition and weather forecasts for Helvelyn, so those venturing our should know what to expect.
Regards
JL


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Snow - Sun - Calm


'Champagne' weather, with little wind and a full cloak of snow down to sea-level.
The approaches to routes and summits are proving troublesome in the deep powder. Ski-touring must be good. One team back from Deep-Cut Chimney (Stob Coire nam Beith) reported hard going and less than perfect conditions. Rumours of teams out on the West Face of Aonach Dubh. Some ice is forming at lower levels and the weather forecast looks okay for the week ahead.

Some beds still available in our bunkhouse this week. No real change in the cold weather into the next week. Head north folks.






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Top Teddy

Saturday, 7 February 2009

These pictures are from Thursday on Ledge Route. The stiff northerly wind was stripping off the snow from the north side and dumping it on the plateau and all point south on Ben Nevis. The ice and snow that remained was purely ballistic in substance. Not the nice sticky stuff that dreams are made of. A couple of teams backed off of Thompsons Chimney and Gargoyle Wall when confronted by the strength of the wind and general harsh cold conditions.

Yesterday we had another dump of snow and today it is glorious wall to wall sunshine.


Ernesto was made of sterner stuff and slumped thankfully into the summit shelter after a cosy rucsac ride up Ledge Route.


Top Teddy


Wonderful views all around in the clear northerly airstream.



Ledge Route.




Grey Buttresses.


Ledge Route.

Hi Alan,

Just a quick email to say thanks for the lift! It would have been a much longer day had we ended up walking! SW Ridge of Douglas Boulder was a great route to do given the conditions, and the climb itself was a great combination of rock and winter climbing. The West Gully of Douglas Boulder was in great condition, but the approach slopes required caution. The East Gully was full of very deep powder, so we ended up abseiling down it.

I left my Black Diamond walking poles behind a gas canister, on purpose, at the CIC Hut, (complete with Tag4 Name tags!) and on my return they had gone, I've been asking everyone on our decent, in case they had been used in anger on the walk out.

Thanks again for the lift,





Hi Alan,
Thanks as ever for your website. We boys in Huddersfield would be lost without yourself, Abacus, Alpha etc.You've saved us a lot of wasted journeys and optimised the ones we have made.
If your little bear Ernesto has no luck with Stripey, maybe a cultural shift and looking further a-field to young Shawn might be considered. A veteran of new routes in Kyrgystan, the Huayhuash and all places East.
Cheers, Ian Arnold FRCC

Not sure if Sheep and Bear can mix very well Ian, but worth a try, thanks. That fancy little jumper that Shawn is clad in, did it come as a package or was it knitted later? Or maybe it is a little woolly skirt. Is Shawn a 'Gay Goat'?


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North West and Skye looking good

Wednesday, 4 February 2009

Alan,
No photos (sorry!), but from the past two days I can confirm that: Liathach, Ben Eighe, Beinn Alligin etc have plenty of snow and are providing great winter traverses, and that Skye is also fully covered. We did Sgurr nan Gillean by the Pinnacle Ridge today. No views unfortunately. There is a firm bed of old snow, and the new stuff falling now will of course raise the avalanche risk, but if there is a thaw-freeze, the Main Ridge Traverse will be awesome.................!
Duncan


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Ernesto (Ernie) was locked out of the CIC Hut today! Another bear called 'Stripey' apparantly freeloads in Kenton Cools rucsac and has hitched rides to the top of Everest. Maybe Erinie and Stripey could meet up. Ernie has climbed Denali and Aconcagua and normally resides in Germany. Any news on other high altitude bears would be great to receive, maybe with a few pictures.


Hi Alan,
Had a good day out on Aonach Mor today. Climed Morwind (as did a few other teams), did some snow belays and some avalanche awareness. To do this we headed further round the corrie and abseiled down a short way before triggering an avalanche! A perfect example for the lads! See attached photo, cheers
Chris Walker

Thanks Chris. We found plenty of shifting snow on Ben Nevis as well. It hardly needed a touch before it slid on east and west aspects, plus probably many more. We saw around three big sluffs come off of Vanishing Gully.


Fawlty Towers (III) or thereabouts, to the right of Douglas Gap Gully West. A good training area, with a simple abseil to finish towards Observatory Gully.


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Windy in Lochan

Tuesday, 3 February 2009


Today it appeared that I was the only person suffering from penetrating and troublesome wind in Stob Coire nan Lochan. Most other locations did not suffer that much by all accounts. We climbed Dorsal Arete, which was in good shape. The major buttresses are 'black' as shown by the photo above.

Indicator Wall was in decent condition according to one rope who ventured up into Observatory Gully.


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Lochnagar Coming Good

Monday, 2 February 2009

Hi Alan,

Another thaw freeze and Lochnagar will be in perfect nick. Trias and I had a good day on Eagle ridge behind two other teams. The story is on our blog:
http://graniteandice.blogspot.com/2009/02/eagle-ridge-vi6-at-night.html

Cheers

Henning

Thanks Henning. Looks as though Lochnagar may get buried shortly, if the forecast is true.Head west.


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More 'Booty' on the Ben for returning

Hi Alan,

I was up the Ben today for a quick blast and did .5 and Thompson's. The point is in good shape, the first pitch is steep, but the rouge pitch easy. I found a climber's rucksack in the chimney of Thompson's, probably blown off the summit. If you hear of anyone who has lost a 'sack, tell them to get in touch.

Cheers
Kenny Grant

17 Abrach Road
Fort William
PH33 6LZ
01397 706499
07789518669

Well done Kenny, Alan.


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Ernie the Teddy survives


Having survived a near-death experience on Curved Ridge yesterday, Ernie re-appeared on a free gondola trip today on Aonach Mor.



At the end of the day and a mulled wine and Glen Livet in the Nevis Range bar, Ernie is ready for more mountain adventures.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:40  2 comments
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Aonach Mor in Belting 'Nick'

Very good conditions all over the East Face of Aonach Mor today. Considerable wind-chill in the biting easterly wind. More to come in the next week or two with any luck.



Hi Alan,

Hopefully a picture of Mark climbing Tunnel Vision has attached ok,
cheers.

Chris



Looks like we were on the same climb Chris! Thanks for cutting out the good belay ledge and exposing the nut placements.



Think I might have seen you today, Aonach Mor, hope your day went well.Its probably no surprise but thought I'd report that White Shark was in good condition, a few patches of hard/shattering ice but generally very enjoyable. Cornice easily avoided on the right. No photo's I'm afraid.

Adam

Hi Alan
Pic of a gully in Lurchers Crag (Sunday) Not sure what one it is but think it was left of window gully? Ice really poor and lots of water running behind it but enough to make it interesting. A few other teams out and a nice day but it all needs a good freeze, which is coming.
Cheers
Craig



No worries. We went to Dorsal at the weekend and it went fine. Shared with 3 other parties. It was very mild, and surprisingly sheltered despite the Radio Scotland forecast of 60-100mph gusts. Hopefully will see you on our next stop on 13th.


How are you and Sue getting on Alan, Just thought I would let you know how things were in the East at the weekend. I was working with a group from Durham University on Basic Winter Skills. Third year now ! A great bunch to work with and keen to get stuck in. There was a very icy layer on the snow this weekend so we really concentrated on foot work. Prevention is always better than cure. A slip would have resulted in a long slide. Pretty much white out on top of Glas Maol. Good for Navigation practice. Please see the Link below relating to there mates. It really restores your faith in human kindness

SAISS Blogspot

Speak Soon

Gavin Kellett



Alan
I thought you may be interested in the following report. Stayed at the Hutchinson Hut last Saturday 31st and Climbed Red Chimney on Creag a' choire Etchachan on Sunday. It was well worth the long trip in, with no one else around and pretty good ice on the first two pitches. The
top however, was a steepish and worryingly unconsolidated swim, but we found good gear which made it doable. Dijbanji "looked complete", but may be too thin to enjoy/do? and the crux
pillar of Square Cut Gully looked in. Attached some poor photos (the other guy is the keen photographer and he has gone AWOL) Who knows the cold may stay and the snow stay away to make it worthwhile for someone next weekend.

Sean


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Poor Conditions on Zero Gully

Sunday, 1 February 2009

A report just in concerns poor conditions on the first pitch of Zero Gully. One team had to retreat when confronted by poor ice. They left a Petzl Quark and a bulldog behind for lowering off. If you happen to find this gear please consider handing it back. The number to phone is 0780 827 4678. Well done guys for getting yourself out of a little pickle. Hopefully you will get some kind person to return your Ice Pickel!
Other reports from Green Gully and No 2 Gully Buttress were more positive. Still some space in the Bunkhouse this week to lay your weary head after a superb days climbing:-)



By all accounts this little 'Teddy' has been to the summit of Aconcagua and Denali. He finally met his match on the top of Buachaille Etive Mor today!


Fine views and conditions in Glen Coe today.



Curved Ridge was stripped of a lot of snow.



Looking towards The Black Mount hills today.


The final slopes above Curved Ridge today. Well bonded snow and a biting easterly wind.


Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for this photo on Green Gully this afternoon.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:59  0 comments
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© Alan Kimber, Calluna, Heathercroft, Fort William, PH33 6RE, Scotland
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