At the end of a full seven days of settled weather, we topped off the week with a traverse to Mt Blanc from the Cosmiques Hut. One local guide said that the conditions were the best he could remember.
The trail is all on good crunchy snow and the one short icy section on the Mt Maudit fixed lines is well protected. Yesterday at various sheltered places on the route, it was possible to light a match and it would have burned down to nothing.
Standing around too long was cold, but manageable with good warm kit and maybe a light duvet top to provide an extra layer of comfort. It really depends on how much 'lard' you carry on-board, along with personal fitness!


The view from Les Tines of Mt Blanc (top left) if it is climbed from the Gouter Hut, situated where the snow finishes at the right end of the skyline. The approach to this very busy hut involves a five hour trek and some serious exposure to stonefall, crossing the Grande Couloir.


The starting point from the Cosmiques Hut only requires a short approach after ascending to the Aiguille du Midi. Part of this hut approach is down a very exposed and narrow snow/ice crest. This same crest also provides a taxing finish to a long day if returning by the route after a successful summit.
The photo above was taken from the balcony of the Cosmiques Hut.


Julien and Joe at first light on the fixed lines at the top of the Mt Maudit Face. We had departed the hut around 3.30 a.m. To arrive at this point involves an ascent of the easy north flank of Mt Blanc du Tacul, which at the moment is fairly stable, but some years can have serious serac instability. Another short section of unstable seracs at the foot of the north flank of Mt Maudit should be departed with some haste.


The fixed lines on Mt Maudit exit on to the trail at the left of this photo. Normally, neither Mt Blanc du Tacul or Mont Maudit summits are visited when traversing to Mont Blanc.


Taken from near the summit of Mont Blanc. The traverse line follows good trails on the left flank of the cornice fluting's.


Approaching the Col de la Brenva and the final steep approach to the summit. At this point some superb views across the icy eastern abyss start to show themselves


On the horizon are the tallest Swiss peaks appearing above a sea of cloud. Monte Rosa - Matterhorn - Tasch - Dom - Weisshorn. On the left are the chaotic spires of Aiguille du Diable, leading up towards the summit rocks of Mont Blanc du Tacul. The middle distance is the Dent du Geant and Grande Jorasses, shrouded in cloud, with the Grande Combin behind these peaks.


Finally, from the summit of Mont Blanc, turning towards the Italian summit of Mt Blanc de Courmayeur, rarely visited by the masses.


These jumbled serac blocks guard the exit to the Brenva Spur. At least two teams appeared through this icy maze and were very complimentary about the good conditions throughout.


The 'team' at the top. Well done Jerry-Chris-Julien-Joe-Alan-Mike.


This is a photo of the Chere Couloir, which is in pretty good shape just now and getting plenty of ascents. The last week has been blessed by cool weather, which will have a positive effect on bonding loose rocks. Routes on the 'Triangle' of Mt Blanc du Tacul are mostly in very good condition. One issue appears to be crossing late season bergschrunds, which have opened up to become steep and difficult in places.


The South East Face of Aiguille du Midi is clear and getting plenty of attention. In fact the late season conditions throughout the main alpine locations are worthy of a visit.

Thanks to Mark and Jane Seaton for providing me with accommodation and Chris Ensoll working with me and the team this week. And of course to Mike, Jerry, Julien and Joe. Twelve seasons (?), in The Alps, Scotland and Norway have provided plenty of adventure and friendship. See you in the winter.