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These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Success and Failure on Skye

Saturday, 6 June 2009


A couple of weeks back I had a number of groups out on the Black Cuillin Traverse attempt. Out of four groups only one team made it and all in the same period. None of the groups experienced a two day dry slot thoughout the week, even though the timetables were flexible.

Any number of reasons were the cause of disappointment. From a lack of fitness to slow technique on exposed rock or more likely on wet slippery rock. The one team that did succeed was on a one to one basis, very fit and very dogged in pursuit of success. Even in good weather some teams fail due to a lack of fitness and understanding of what is involved.

However, as is clear from these photos and short report from one client it is possible in less than perfect conditions, even though the serious nature of the ridge is increased considerably on wet rock.


On the first day a clear view into Loch Coruisk.


On the second day on Collies Ledge. Very slippery and exposed. A rope is being used for protection.


An evening view from the bivouac.

Hi Alan
Thanks again for sorting my traverse out. Spike has a saying about climbers having a smile like somebody who has found a cookie jar at a party. I am still smiling!
Here are a few shots from our trip, other than the ledge they are from the 1st day, 2nd day was not a good day for taking pics!
The traverse has been a long held ambition for me, I had two fantastic days on the ridge with Spike despite the weather, something to tell the grand kids about!
All the best

Al


and also


Hi Alan,
Just wanted to say thanks for organising my traverse, it was one of the best experiences of my life - I'm still grinning about it now!
Please pass on a huge thank you to Spike, his guiding was excellent and he was good company.
We got lucky with the weather for the northern half of ridge - the dry gabbro was awesome, I wasn't so keen on the wet basalt on the second day though! I still don't know how Spike swum up the T-D gap.
I will send some pics when I get them sorted out if that is ok.

Thanks again


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:52 


4 Comments:

Anonymous Rhys Jaggar said...

First tried the ridge about 16 years ago around this time of year - it started raining as we got to the ridge top and there was a waterfall at the T-D gap when we got there, so we bailed out.

Went back a few weeks later - rivers on the A82 from Glasgow to Kintail, then cleared as we crossed on the ferry.

We started 3.30am from the campsite and it was clear as we reached the ridge.

Again T-D gap: pouring with rain, so I seconded it with the leader's pack PLUS my pack on my back....absolute nightmare. But we did it.

Got to top of Sgurr nan Gillean about 8pm, where we partied with friends who'd come up Pinnacle Ridge to meet us. We drank like Everest summiteers when we found a river on the way down. Got to Slig at 11.30pm to buy a carry out and fell asleep in the bus as we got back to the camp site at 1.30am.

For those preparing for it: train doing pull-ups - if the TD gap is wet, the foot wedges don't work so you have to pull yourself up with feet scrabbling.......try doing the pull-ups with a pack on your back - it's quite hard!

6 June 2009 14:39  

Blogger Westcoast Mountainguides said...

Thanks Rhys. If only the Cuillin could talk, I wager there would be a good number of epic tales to tell.

6 June 2009 16:24  

Blogger Peter said...

I am due to be climbing (walking up) Ben Nevis in September with guides etc. How can I prepare my self / get fit? Any advice or direction to websites please?

9 June 2009 11:44  

Blogger Westcoast Mountainguides said...

Hi Peter,

Ben Nevis is a mighty big mountain and the Mountain Path is continually up hill apart from one small flat section at halfway. Get out walking and cycling beforehand to increase your fitness levels. The path is rocky, so a good solid pair of boots with high ankle support and a couple of pairs of socks for added comfort. I use trekking poles, both uphill and downhill. They give balance and also reduce the pressure on aching knee joints in descent.

Finally, September can be wintry and cold at times, although not always. Be prepared with waterproofs top and bottom, plus a spare fleece, hat and gloves. Make sure you take a map and compass and know how to us it. Failing that hire a mountain guide:)

Munro Magic is a good website for details of Ben Nevis and many other Scottish peaks.

Enjoy.

AK

9 June 2009 15:04  

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