Latest mountain conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Happy Hogmanay

Wednesday, 31 December 2008

And please keep the reports and photos coming in 2009. Thanks.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 23:08 0 comments
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Splendid

Tuesday, 30 December 2008

Catching the early climbers Gondola (0800) from Nevis Range put us ahead of the pack and a quick abseil into Left Twin to sample some spring like conditions in the sunshine. At this season the sun quickly hides its glow, low down behind the southern ridges and languishing in its warmth soon gave way to more frigid sensations.

Second pitch on Left Twin.

So long as no other ropes are below you, abseiling can be a good straightforward approach to the foot of Left Twin. Siamese Twin is the thick smear on the right-hand wall. It is a touch more difficult than Left Twin.

Hi Alan,

Don't no if you were out today so I copied the report I put on my blog. Hope it's useful.

Today I went up on the Ben with Greg. We climbed Smith's Route. The first pitch had good ice all the way, but was not always thick enough to take a screw (1/2 in 16 cm). The icicle is not there, but the original finish is in fine climbing nick. It felt like a stiff, pushy V,5 today due to some thinish ice on the steep section and the same issue with screws on the first pitch. Overall, it was a joy to climb. We were being lazy and came down Tower gully and the climbed Tower Scoop, which is offering some good sport on very good ice. We saw a few teams climb point 5 and good Friday climb as well.

Tony went out for a bit of a solo mission today. here is a run down of what he did.

Point 5, Glover's, Cascade, Comb and Green Gully, Central right hand. He came down No.2 Raeburn's Easy Route and ledge route saying that everything he climbed was in good shape.

Cheer Adam Hughes

Adam Hughes

Thanks Adam.

I was on Aonach Mor, Left Twin. Mostly good, but some sugary snow in places which would benefit from a little mild weather and a freeze. Not much chance of the mild weather though in the next few days. Still, mustn't complain, it was just a very good day.

Also check out Winter Highland

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:41 0 comments
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Perfect Winter

Monday, 29 December 2008

Still and calm and freezing. Not the usual description of West Coast weather, but hey, let's make the most of it whilst we can. First impression when casting a glance towards the hills is of not much snow. Don't be fooled, as the climbing is pretty good. Some teams back from Aonach Mor East Face reported a good day out on Right Twin at a 'pokey' grade II.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:16 2 comments
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Very Cold

Sunday, 28 December 2008

Very cold and dry just now. These pictures show what is around from Christmas Eve. Whilst conditions for harder routes are pretty 'thin' there are good climbs to be achieved on Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor. Aonach Mor has been reported as loose (rocks) in places.

For the easier grade I/II's, many routes are complete and very solid. At least two teams out on Point Five Gully. One rope had a problem with a crampon and needed to descend for a pit stop in the kit store, here at Calluna. They are off up for another shot at the trophy!

Summit Cairn of Nevis from inside the emergency shelter.

Looking up towards Indicator Wall from beneath Tower Scoop. Looks 'thin' but climbable.

The 'Cornice Flop' brilliantly executed here on Aonach Mor.

Looking across the East Face of Aonach Mor.

Climbing on routes to the south of Easy Gully on Aonach Mor.

Descending Easy Gully on Aonach Mor.

View towards Ben Nevis from Aonach Mor.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 14:51 1 comments
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Dry and Cold

Friday, 26 December 2008

Fine weather, but not much chance of any fresh snow for a while. A good frost down to sea-level this morning in Fort William. This may bring any routes still intact back into good condition. Also any of the turfy mixed routes on Aonach Mor may benefit. The earliest Climber's Gondola at Nevis Range appears to be at 0900. Phone for details.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 15:04 0 comments
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Spring in the Cairngorms

Wednesday, 24 December 2008

A great day in the Cairngorms today. Very mild and mellow on Aladdin's Couloir. Only the easy routes are left in good shape and if the cold weather returns as forecast the snowpack will be brick hard.

Coire an t-Sneachda.

Some snow left on the plateau, but not good for ski-touring just now.

Aladdin's Pinnacle in summer 'nick'.

Loch Morlich looking quiet and serene.

Best wishes and peace and happiness to you all, not just now, but always.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:34 1 comments
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Still Mild

Tuesday, 23 December 2008

Still mild. Yesterday our team climbed Ledge Route and descended Number Four Gully. There was plenty of ice and snow above about 1000 metres, but it needs to cool down a touch for anything resembling good conditions to return. Fortunately that does appear to be possible according the the forecast. Not much new snow falling in the near future but Christmas Day looks Bonnie on the weather maps. Dry and cold, so Santa will be pleased:-)

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:48 0 comments
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Moist and Mild

Sunday, 21 December 2008

If the weather forecast holds true, we are in for some thaw conditions at all levels. Good to see Arsenal and Liverpool kicking lumps out of each other and only gaining a point each, whilst Manchester United lifted the World Club Cup

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:24 0 comments
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Mellow on Nevis

Saturday, 20 December 2008

Apart from a heavy shower at around 0900 we had a very mellow, windless day climbing an easy traverse of the Douglas Boulder, via the West Gully and descending the East Gully. The weather was in fact spring-like.

I found a valuable item outside of the CIC Hut this afternoon, so anyone who has mislaid anything today, please get in touch.

Lots to go for in Coire na Ciste

The Curtain is forming, but looks mighty thin.

Point Five Gully looks in good shape, but may be melting, so not sure of the quality of the ice.

Douglas Gap Gully (West). A good short grade I. Also in this area, on the right of the gully are plenty of sporting options for a shorter day, up to around grade III/IV. Just follow something that looks interesting and don't bother with the guide book. Descent is pretty straightforward into the foot of Observatory Gully.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:13 0 comments
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Good weather on the way.

Friday, 19 December 2008

Monday and Tuesday look set fine with High pressure in control. In fact some of the forecasts are suggesting cold weather through the festive period, although a lot will depend on the position of the High pressure system.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:35 0 comments
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Storm - Winds - Blizzards

An early 0600 Fort William start found us at the foot of Aladdin's Buttress in Coire an t-Sneachda by 0915. The snow and ice conditions were pretty good, but the weather was not playing ball, with a rising wind correctly following the forecast. We climbed Aladdin's Mirror for two pitches, then deviated up into the rocks behind and left of Pygmy Ridge at around grade II. Aladdin's Mirror Direct is complete, plus a host of other good routes. Some other hardy souls out on Mess of Pottage.

Our arrival on the plateau coincided with storm force winds, which fortunately were sending us in the correct direction for Coire Cas. Even so we were on our hands and knees at some points, before reaching the sanctuary of the ski area. One less windy option would have been to descend the relative peace and quiet of Aladdin's Couloir, but possible avalanche risk was avoided for a struggle with the gale.

On arrival back in Fort William it was soaking wet and very windy, not unsurprisingly! Tomorrow sounds better. Sunday looks bad and Monday may improve a wee bit. Loads of snow on the Scottish hills.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:02 0 comments
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The Good the Bad and the Very Bad

Thursday, 18 December 2008

Looking ahead over the next four days it appears that Saturday could be okay, along with Monday. However in between Scottish hills are in for a pasting from intense weather systems blasting in from the Atlantic. Snow is forecast along with storm force winds, so at least the snowpack should survive. Today it has been snowing above 600 metres, as far as I can see from the comfort of my home. Tomorrow a very early start to go east might be the only option for a day on the hills, before seriously bad weather blankets Britain later in the day.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:08 0 comments
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Wetter

Wednesday, 17 December 2008

A good start to the day (dry) led to some vicious blizzard conditions above 900 metres by lunchtime. Now at 1600 it is lashing rain at sea-level. Still plenty of snow in many of the easier gullies, as can be seen by this shot taken today in South Gully on Stob Ban in the Mamores. More of the same to come if the weather charts are to be believed.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:02 0 comments
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Wet

Tuesday, 16 December 2008

Lots of snow is being stripped off in the current mild spell. On Dorsal Arete today most of the belay points were dangerously loose as a deep thaw moved through. As predicted the weather cleared up later in the afternoon and a cold snap is forecast tonight, before more mild conditions approach. The turf was still well frozen where it showed through. The buttresses are running with copious amounts of water.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 19:25 0 comments
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Still Plenty of Snow

Monday, 15 December 2008

Al Halewood was working for me today and sends this report, plus some pictures on his blog at the above link. Thanks Al.

With a poor west coast forecast we went a little east to the East Ridge of Beinn A Chaorainn. which paid off nicely as we had good visibility on the walk in (and the snow was not too deep underfoot). There was plenty of fresh snow on the ridge and Dimitri led Lorenzo up offering advice, choosing the line to take and making nice big steps for him. There was a fair bit of rime above 900m and some windslab on the lee side of the ridge but the air was moist on the summit plateau. The guys navigated a neat dogleg around the bend in the plateau in a whiteout as we dropped off ahead of increasing wind and rain.

And from Robert Kincaid

Hi Alan
I guess a lot of people have been saying its a good start to the winter in that it lasted out a good duration until its collapse today. I have been up on Beinn Udlaidh several times on these short days and the climbing has been excellent at that level with a good ice build up. I went up with Fiona and were planning a grade 3 but it was so busy we ended up taking another harder line on super ice but perhaps a bit to steep for a first route of the winter and Fiona struggled a little but made it with a smile. Today it was quiet and hovering about freezing until pm. Captain Hook looked in good shape and proved good with some excellent ice only a little thin on the top pitch and Dave Ritchie managed a tick in his guidebook which he had hoped to do for sometime. Andy Ravenhill was also out with another MRT member and got a few good pitches in. The afternoon saw a down turn with rain working in and ticked off a 3 and called it a day. We will have to be patient for the next cold spell but it has been a good appetiser.

It is an age since I have been up in FW but no doubt will get in that direction as winter moves on.

Take care and have a great Christmas
Robert

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:42 0 comments
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Getting Warmer

Currently the medium-term weather forecast is suggesting a return to milder conditions until after Christmas. A finger of cold air from a north-westerly direction is set to be replaced by warmer temperatures being dragged in by a high pressure system centred to the south of Britain. Things do change, so watch this space! Murky and mild in Chamonix this morning, with plenty of snow lying at all levels.

Scottish West Coast Long Range Forecast is possibly for colder weather overall. With the amount of early snow and ice experienced this MIGHT be a positive situation for later on, IF we do not lose too much snow and ice in between the cold snaps.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 08:07 0 comments
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Warmer in the Alps

Sunday, 14 December 2008

A significant increase of 15 deg from yesterday and a passage of unsettled, windy weather has produced ..."A treacherous avalanche situation, amid snowfall in southern regions and storm winds"...Check out Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research for more details. As the week progresses the Chamonix Weather suggests a return to colder weather. Hopefully this will be the same at home. I should be out in Scotland on Tuesday.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 15:02 0 comments
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Good Weather in Chamonix

Saturday, 13 December 2008

A very fine and cold day today in Chamonix. Lots of fresh snow lying from the valley to the tops and strong winds aloft.

Strong winds shifting lots of snow across the Col Gouter, with the Vallot Hut on the left-hand ridge.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:43 0 comments
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Cogne Ice Climbing

Friday, 12 December 2008

Cascade de Lillaz - Cogne - II/3 250m

Good conditions in Cogne just now. Lots of fresh snow, making approaches and descents somewhat tiresome. Cascade de Lillaz is just above Cogne and only 15 minutes from the car park. The route is very picturesque, with plenty of easy sections between the steep bits. Expect to climb ice of a gradient similar to Point Five Gully or steeper for short periods!

Last pitch. Scottish grade II/III.

Second Pitch. Scottish grade II ish.

Last pitch again.

Third pitch. Short and vertical. Scottish V.

Third pitch.

Third pitch, down on the left, with last pitch behind, beneath the obvious overhanging rock prow.

Second pitch. Scottish grade II. Be careful of the deep cold pools of water beneath the soft snow.

First pitch. Steep Scottish grade IV, depending on the line you take.

Monte Bianco. South side.

Evening sun on the West Face of the Aigulle du Dru.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:33 0 comments
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Christmas Gifts from Chamonix

Wednesday, 10 December 2008

A good friend of mine and fellow mountain guide Mark Seaton has just published a book all about guiding adventures, aimed at the younger generation As Christmas is just around the corner, why not consider this as a gift for the children? Also a novel stocking-filler for your partner. Well done Mark. Available on Amazon through the weblink above.

One of the characters in the book is Leo. Leo is no longer with us, but has been replaced by an aspirant mountain dog, Walter.

Walter, Mark the Mountain Guide and Marmot Sophie today in a snow-bound Chamonix.

Walter, assisting with snow-clearing duties.

Plenty snow around the car park.

Essential kit for the manufacturing of snow holes. Just make a pile of snow and excavate the centre of the mighty mound. Do not wait too long as the snow sets like concrete pretty quickly.

Room for the whole family and it should last for a few weeks to come.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:25 0 comments
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Cold - Wintry -Unsettled

Tuesday, 9 December 2008

Check out Ten Day Weather Charts

These show at least ten days of pretty unsettled and wintry weather to come. This all bodes extremely well for early winter at least, if not further ahead. The snowpack is getting deeper and therefore harder to shift if a big thaw sets in. Currently, extensive snow cover well down below 600 metres.

As always, never try and 'second-guess' Scottish winters too far into the future. All I can say is that this one has started better than many in recent years, by some distance. Today is glorious.

We have plenty of space in the bunkhouse up until and including 26th December.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:08 0 comments
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Misty Murk

Sunday, 7 December 2008

Today is a touch milder and to a large extent this should help consolidate the considerable amounts of snow lying on the Scottish hills. The cooler temperatures are set to return, with maybe a little ridge of high pressure around mid-week. All in all a good forecast for the next few days.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:18 0 comments
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Stellar Weather - More to come

Saturday, 6 December 2008

Rannoch Moor yesterday

View from bedroom window today:-)

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:15 0 comments
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Plenty Snow

Thursday, 4 December 2008

Hi Alan are you and Sue not homesick yet? ;-)
Here's a reminder of what you're missing.
Up in Stob Coire nan Lochan today and did Dorsal Arete where I met Jason Wood and we then went onto Boomerang Gully. As you can see from the pics we had a lot of snow falling Thursday and Friday but Saturday was clear and cold.
Turf is still iffy and the ice has a long way to go but it was still a great day and looks like we have at least another week of cold tops - may break down before you're back though. However that's the natural cycle of things and it all helps to consolidate the loose snow pack.

Hope you enjoy the pics.

Ken

Thanks for keeping me up to date Ken. I'm looking forward to a cooler climate and a chance to get out. See you soon and please hang on to some of that snow for me!

Aonach Eagach Ridge.

Dorsal Arete - Stob Coire nan Lochan.

A fine cloak of snow. Looking across the Aonach Eagach towards Ben Nevis. Head north folks.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 07:58 2 comments
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Kruger Images

Wednesday, 3 December 2008

Looking forward to getting home and sampling some cooler weather. We travelled back into South Africa over a long three day drive from Windhoek and visited Kruger National Park for four days.
This park was much cheaper to visit and camp in and provided a complete contrast to the wide open spaces of Etosha. Prolific vegetation and thickets make it much less easy to spot the animals. However, on the plus side the wildlife appeared more plentiful. The elusive Leopard unfortunately remained in the shadows for us. Maybe next time.