Latest mountain conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Skye snow Stripped out mostly

Wednesday, 30 April 2008

Hi Alan
Message is that the Cuillin have stripped & my predictions of long lasting snow were wrong. Not consolidated enough I guess. Axe maybe in a couple of wee spots but only if a freeze comes in.
still got the Chelsea blues,
Mike


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:24  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Last Knockins ????

Monday, 28 April 2008

New snow down to 900 metres last night and some ice still left on Ben Nevis on the higher routes.

Cascade area - Ben Nevis

Creag Coire na Ciste area - Ben Nevis

Glover's Chimney. Well done Linda and Spike on possibly it's last ascent this winter.


Indicator Wall looks good for some time yet so long as the temperatures fall.


Glover's Chimney into Tower Gap.

Tower Ridge - Final slopes to the plateau.

Smith's Route and Kellett's and Shot in the Dark still in. Shot in the Dark appears to have some rock climbing on the last pitch below the cornice!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 09:55  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Gear Tags

Friday, 25 April 2008

Does anyone know if GEAR TAGS are still in business? I paid up front online, weeks ago and nothing has arrived!

Also these are not very helpful either !!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:15  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


More Cold Weather Coming


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:28  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Rainy Day Today

Hi Alan,
I've just seen Bruce's post on your website. The ski tracks he saw coming off Stob Choire Claurigh were mine and Finlay's. We started on Aonach Mor and finished just above Corriechoillie. Skis all the way. Almost as good cover as 1980 with Les Houlker.

Regards,
Roger.

Grey Corries a week or so ago.

Grey Corries in 1980


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:08  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Rain for a change

Thursday, 24 April 2008


Hi Alan,
Thanks for the advice again. We had a brilliant weekend in the climbing capital of the UK. A brilliantly sunny weekend as the photo of Ben Nevis shows but with a cold easterly wind at times. Saturday we took the Aonach Mor gondola and walked up the Allt Daim to the foot of the east ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach and climbed this in at times soft sugary snow but with an alpine feel. From the top of the route we continued to Carn Mor Daerg with fantastic views of Ben Nevis and the Mamores and then descended its narrow east ridge arete again with an alpine feel to it. It was just brilliant.
Sunday we returned to the gondola and to the same glen but this time on the other side to reach Golden Oldy. Mostly rock on its lower parts but more snowy higher up. It has a good narrow ridge section at about two thirds height with we thought some exciting exposure for a short distance. A bit more cloudy Sunday afternoon and that cold wind again especially on the summit of Aonach Mor. The trip ended with a fifty minute descent back to the gondola racing the skiers and snowboarders in time for the last one down.
Looks like the snow/ice will be around a while yet on The Ben but that's it for us this season I think.

thanks again,

Jon,Rob,Gavin.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:24  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Camera Found

Hi Alan

Hope your enjoying the winter still!
I was out with a group on The Ben last Saturday 19th April and found a camera on the Pony Track on the way down. If you could post up this on your blog for the unfortunate person and ask him to send details and I'll wizz it off in the post. Lots of cameras going missing recently!

My number is: 01567 829 348

Cheers

Gary

Tarmachan Mountaineering Club


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:34  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Milder now for a few days

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

The weather has turned milder, but Ben Nevis is still cloaked in plenty of ice. Two days ago I was out with Bruce Poll and Dave Wilson on Kellet's(GardylooButtress) and Indicator Wall and both were in very very good condition, as was Smith's Route, nearby. In the last few days Nevis has seen plenty of action, including a snowboard descent of both North and South Castle Gullies!

The weather forecast suggests another really cold snap, possibly this weekend or early next week, so a May Day ascent of some steep ice might just be on the cards. There is certainly enough ice left to last through until May and it all depends on the overnight temperatures and an early Alpine start folks!

Gardyloo Buttress

Summer plumage coming through.

Plenty of ice to climb from Observatory Gully

Last pitch to the summit cairn on Indicator Wall


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 08:49  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Isle of Skye detail

Thanks to Mike Lates for keeping us all informed of the 'Misty Isle'

Hi Alan,
Loving the end of season and the climbing isn't bad either. Rather utd play Chelsea in Moscow.

I include a diary update for your blog mainly to warn folk that the Cuillin is going to be hairy over the next few weeks but also with news of the winter traverse record that seemed to escape publicity.

See you soon I guess?,
Cheers,
Mike

www.skyeguides.co.uk


22 April 2008.

Memorable Winter but big snow patches make slow going for the weeks ahead.

More snow than has been seen for the last decade gave a Cuillin winter to remember with new routes and a new record for the Winter Traverse. Spring promises to be very Alpine with extensive snow-fields well consolidated along the whole length of the Ridge.

Despite perfect weather last week most parties were limited to single peak days with deep sugary snow making progress slow and scary. Only those making alpine starts on the morning neve made much progress.

In the colder period at the start of March conditions were "stellar". Highlight was a new winter record for the Traverse of just 9 hours 7 minutes by the on-form Steve Ashworth- congratulations! Indication of how good things were was a party who carried bivvy gear the day before but didn't need it because they were travelling so fast- a very fine effort.

Persistence again paid off for Peter Macpherson & I with the Cuillin mixed game. On 11 March we squeezed "Eilidh's Ceilidh" (for Pete's daughter) in between the sun-struck walls of the TD gap (V 7). Very sustained climbing, mostly technical 6 with a fierce crux (7) turning a large roof. Thanks Pete! Finishing in a blizzard and a huge bumslide out confirmed it was definitely winter despite the earlier hot sun.

Ironically it is rain the Cuillin now needs in order to scour some of the steep slabby sections of their white mantle- I'll be sad to say goodbye to it.

Stay safe & don't expect to zoom along the Ridge without a care in the world. Axes are recommended for some weeks ahead.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 08:34  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Lost Stuff

Tuesday, 22 April 2008

Hello Alan
I was climbing the ice pitch on Good Friday (2nd Pitch) yesterday (Sun20th)when my camera came away from the shoulder strap on my rucsac, i think it landed somewhere around the top of the 1st pitch. It was in a black Lowe Alpine case 2"x3", it was a Sony T3 digital camera. If any anybody finds it i would be extremely grateful for its return. Cheers Mike 07818407178

Hi Mike,

I was on Indicator Wall area on 21st and did not see your camera. Might have a stroll up to have a look sometime.

Also, a team dropped some keys out of a jacket pocket on Point Five Gully. Please contact me if you find them.

I found a lovely little camera on the road between Nevis Range and A82 at the weekend. Must be the season for slippery fingers. Certainly Ben Nevis is still icy.

A dropped Quark hammer somewhere below Green Gully can be re-united with it's owner by contacting Alan Kimber!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:46  4 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Top Dog - Top Day

Saturday, 19 April 2008




Another fine weekend on Ben Nevis. Three metres of snow on the summit. I found a camera on the road from Nevis Range to the A82. It must have been left on the roof of a car and the driver went off not realising it. The pictures were not of climbing, more horse-riding and mountain biking. Accurate description of the photos and camera will help find who it belongs to.

Some unsettled weather may pass through during mid-week, but still wintry in nature.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 20:12  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Home with a VIEW

Friday, 18 April 2008


Bruce Poll skied the Grey Corries recently to Achintee and over the Aonachs and Ben Nevis in eight hours. Apart from anything else he was inspired by the view from his home in Roybridge which he shares with Linda, Alasdair and Ruraidh.

This composite image was taken this evening. Head north folks. Thanks Bruce.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:19  4 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Cornice Capers

Hi Alan,

The Ben is GOOD...
With the prospect of good cold, calm and sunny weather according to the forecast we headed your way. We needed a rest from the climbing and skiing in the 'Gorms. It wasn't quite the perfect day envisaged due to the biting easterly winds and cloud on the Ben's summit BUT the ice conditions were fantastic. We changed our original plans due to the amount of spindrift coming off the Orion face, Zero and Point Five and the fresh windslab build-up. It was too cold to hang around anyway! So we ploughed up Observatory Gully towards Smith's Route which looked and was stunning with good 1st time axe placements and ice screws where you wanted them, apart from the very top of the RH icicle - sure I took the left hand one the last time, though it was too thin...! Fi found that bit fun and got her own back by making sure I got
the cornice!

We met Bruce on his ski traverse from the Grey Corries and were rather envious of his speedy descent down the Red Burn though he wasn't really dressed for hanging around - not seen ski boots that colour for years either;-)

Anyway lots of good lines in condition though the traverse out from the basin on the Orion looked very thin? Zero Gully, Observatory Ridge, Hadrian's, Sickle Point Five, Tower Scoop, Indicator Wall, Kellet's Route, Cascade upper and Lower, Green Gully, Two Step Corner, Glovers, White Line etc. etc. were all looking good. However, some of the lower ice falls such
as the Curtain are now non existent.

The snow cover is fantastic. The best I've seen for some time and it was nice to descent the whole way from the summit plateau down to the CIC hut. It saves the knees no end. BTW the new NF path is great... Several of the classic ice routes should last into May so we'll be back a few times soon. I've uploaded a video to YouTube of our day out and it includes rarely seen footage of my advanced cornice technique please don't laugh... !


Kind regards,

Ron Walker


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:52  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Crowberry Gully - Creag Meagaidh - Ben Nevis

First pitch on The Pumpkin

Alan,

A bit of an epic week; Tuesday, we did Comb and Green Gullies on the Ben on fantastic neve; a few teams out on Goodeve's Route, Italian Climb, Tower Ridge.

Wed did The Pumpkin on Meagaidh; no-one else around. Last Post (some impressive ice), Staghorn and South Pipe Direct all looked in, although we didn't get that close. Nothing else looked climbable, certainly on the Pinnacle and Post Faces. In the inner corrie, The Wand and Diadem were also not in condition. The Pumpkin was do-able, but poor ice made the first two pitches very trying; two tied-off ice crews in 50m anyone?! Some brave souls had skied Easy and Raeburn's (!) Gullies, which are full of snow.

Thursday we did Observatory Ridge; a ten hour epic on cruddy ice, powder and rock. Wouldn't have missed it for the world! Teams in Zero Gully and on Observatory Buttress, but a couple of attempts on Orion Face were repulsed. Not much in along that face. Saw three skiers do the lower part of Tower Gully (not quite sure where they started from). One was telemarking; impressive!

Duncan
Observatory Ridge

Comb Gully. The R-Hand variant looks fantastic above.

Green Gully

Late shift for great views.


Alan
Had a great day out yesterday on Crowberry Gully. Took my 65 year old dad out for a trip down memory lane. The first time he climbed on Buchaille Etive Mor was 1964, lots of things have changed since then, but one thing remains the same, the quality of the climbing. What adds to the magic is having the mountain to ourselves. The route is in good nick at the moment with good ice on the main pitches.


The photo is of Hugh Morris above the Thincrack Chimney.

A great website,


Cheers


Dafydd


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:40  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Speed Ski Touring

Thursday, 17 April 2008




Hi Alan

Probably not good photos for you, first one looking SW from approach to Stob Choire Claurigh from the north, second one fairly obvious, did not get phone out between the two spots, a bit breezy for photos (not forecast), was not dressed for stopping, awesome trip that has not been in such good nick for years by my viewing. There were two sets of ski tracks coming off Claurigh, a couple of walkers print lines and a very lonely day.

Speak soon

Bruce

Not too bad for a little phone camera Bruce, thanks.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:05  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Gob-smacking

I'm running out of superlatives to describe this spell of weather and good climbing conditions. Orion Direct was climbed yesterday and Hadrian's Wall Direct today. Also, for those of you with a ski-ing interest, the Grey Corries from Corriechoille to Achintee, via Aonach Beag, Carn mor Dearg and Ben Nevis was traversed by Bruce Poll on his trusty planks yesterday in eight hours!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:25  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Still Superb

Tuesday, 15 April 2008


A dusting of snow last night and low overnight temperatures. What chance Point Five Gully in early May. Plenty of options for guiding on the classics just now. also, some accommodation at the bunkhouse. Check out Land of Light for some really good photos.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:50  3 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Late April looking GOOD

Sunday, 13 April 2008


According to the weather charts for later in the month a big high pressure system is going to dominate. It will be centred slightly east of Scotland and could well bring in some stunning weather. Linked to the good ice conditions on Ben Nevis at present this will present another good reason for leaving the chalk bags in the cupboard, although ice in the morning followed by dry warm rock in Glen Nevis in the afternoon sounds like a good mix. This amateur weather forecaster feels we could be in for some stellar climbing conditions later on. However I do stress I'm not a professional 'Met-Man'


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 14:00  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Still more SUN and plenty of FUN!!

Thanks to Danny Goodwin for these pictures showing the wonderful conditions still being experienced on Ben Nevis. Yesterdays pictures, but Sunday is identical at the moment.

CIC Hut view


Plenty to climb on N.E. Buttress

Well done Claire, topping out on Number Four Gully.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:13  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Point Five Gully and LOTS more

Saturday, 12 April 2008

Today (Saturday) on Ben Nevis and the good climbing is continuing. Dozens of teams out enjoying the late season conditions. Thanks to Chris Holdsworth, an Instructor working for me this weekend, for these pictures on his Pentax Optio L40,

Babylon on Number Three Gully Buttress

Hadrian's Wall and Sickle


Easier top pitches of Point Five Gully


The 'Rogue' Pitch on Point Five Gully with plenty (?) of rope drag.


First Pitch on Point Five Gully.


Chimney (2nd pitch) pitch on Point Five Gully

Well done Simon, topping out from Point Five Gully.


Queues on Point Five Gully


Three metres of snow on the summit of Ben Nevis. All smiles and Happy days!!!


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:45  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Italian R-Hand

Friday, 11 April 2008

Thanks to Chris Holdsworth for these pictures taken today on Italian Climb R-Hand. He and Simon then traversed over to Broad Gully and descended back down that climb into the corrie. Plenty of unconsolidated snow on the approaches, but the ice is in really good shape.


Italian Climb - Right Hand Variant

Italian Climb


Looking up into Number Three Gully


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 18:26  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


More Snow - More Frost - More Sunny Weather

Yesterday on Zero Gully the overnight snow created some taxing conditions on the easier upper sections. The ice pitches were all good, but not taking secure screws. It's often the case that good ice for climbing is not too great for slotting in ice protection. The belay on the first pitch is a good 55/60 metres up to the left and consists of plenty of old slings. Rock belays higher up are poor. At the moment there is a rope hanging down towards the first pitch and it is anchored fairly well.
Orion Direct also has a web of four ropes hanging down the first pitch. No doubt some abseiling history attached to them.

Looking down the first pitch of Zero Gully

The easier upper sections of Zero Gully with plenty of new snow.

The Grey Corries this morning


Grey Corries


Grey Corries


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:39  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Lots of ACTION

Wednesday, 9 April 2008

Point Five Gully today (First Pitch)


Alan,

As your photo shows, another cracking Winter day on the Ben; and relatively empty! Did Point Five; won't say anything about it's condition for risk of being sued, but I didn't have to search for a second placement for either tool for the whole length of it! Picture of Simon on pitch one attached.

Unfortunately, on the descent (to look for the two dropped ice screws, but that's another story....) we then got involved in a rescue on Smith's Route. The belayer had failed to hold his second on a fall on the second pitch. The second fell all the way to the base of the route and was, amazingly, unhurt. The leader broke his hand, burnt his arm, neck and hand and was unconscious on the belay. Luckily, another team led by a guide (whoever it was; your bivvy jacket is hanging up in the CIC Hut as arranged), was able to lower the leader, and we got them both down. Aged 17 and 18, the second on his second winter route (first was Green Gully the day before), climbing on a single 8mm rope, and the leader was using a body belay as he had lost his bug. When the second fell, one of his belay ice screws came out, he was belaying the wrong way around and was twisted around between the remaining ice screw and rock gear; thus his loss of control of the rope, the burns and the faint.

A few lessons there perhaps?! The leader had taken his other 'mate', aged 16, up his first Winter route the day before.....Point Five!

Teams also seen on Orion Face, Good Friday Climb and Tower ridge.

Duncan Francis


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:54  2 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


More snow and good weather

Photo taken this morning at 0900. Plenty of snow and ice to climb.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:00  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


More lost Gear

Tuesday, 8 April 2008

Hi Alan,

I'm sorry to say I've added yet another axe to the growing list of dropped tools on the Ben this year. This time it's a DMM rebel (with adze), which I lost in No.3 gully on Sunday 6th of April. It was buried after I triggered a small wind slab avalanche approaching the base of our route. Despite much digging, I couldn't find it. If anyone comes across it, I'd be extremely grateful to get it back (my email is petesdavies@hotmail.com).

Conditions were pretty good on that part of the Ben on Sunday. From what I could see

Diane - looked in but quite thin
Quickstep and Two Step - in and getting climbed
Thompson's and Gargoyle Wall - looked good and icy
Winter Chimney - pretty bare
Winter Cascade - in but fairly thin
Une Journee ordinaire... - the icicle had formed but was looking small/delicate
The harder mixed routes were looking wintry as well.

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks

Peter Davies


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 17:39  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Aonach Eagach




Hi Alan,
Traversed the Aonach Eagach ridge yesterday with Paul Freeman. The conditions were fine, the new snow was lying on relatively dry rock and made for reasonable going. Saw one other person who soloed the route. The usual 4 seasons in a day made for a great mountain day out. The path down to the Clachaig was as difficult as the ridge itself and demands a lot of care underfoot.
regards
Nick Bryan
Tayside Fire Rescue Climbing Club.

Thanks Nick, Coming down via the flanks of Clachaig Gully is NOT RECOMMENDED

Aim towards The Pap and then head off down rough trails to Grid Reference 111586 Two cars are best.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 09:59  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Winter just keeps rolling along!

Monday, 7 April 2008

Alan,

Climbed Central Gully on Ben Lui in the dark last night, and met two other guys doing the same thing! It is certainly in perfect nick (even to Gary Bauers standards) with rock-hard neve all the way from the bottom bowl to the top. The ridges and gullies on either side are also in fine condition.

Thanks Duncan


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:13  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Gear Tags

Sunday, 6 April 2008

Have any of you got a good link to gear tags? I keep on finding so much stuff with a name and address on it, that I thought it might be good to mark my own stuff.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:52  7 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Stob Coire nan Lochan today

Thanks to Chris Holdsworth for these images today.

Plenty of beefy wintry showers going through.

Climbers on Dorsal Arete

Twisting Gully

Stob Coire nan Lochan

SC Gully - Stob Coire nan Lochan



Right Twin yesterday


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 19:51  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Snow to Sea-Level

Last night saw a big dump of snow to sea-level. This has all cleared now and the northerly winds appear to be cleaning out the new snow from the usual avalanche hazard places. Plenty of good ice still to climb and the week ahead is set to stay cold.

Ben Nevis North Face 6th April
Ben Nevis North Face 6th April


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 15:44  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


edloffill@cantab.net

Saturday, 5 April 2008



edloffill@cantab.net Thanks to Ed for these pictures taken last week. Ed does sell photos like this so please contact him if you are interested.

Click the images if you wish to enlarge them.

Great pictures Ed, thanks.

Ed was on a course run for me by Rosie Goolden


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:48  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Winter Continues

Today was very wintry with northerly winds packing ion more snow. Winds from this direction appear to be scouring out the East-facing gullies, at least on Aonach Mor. We climbed Golden Oldy and a number of groups succeeded on Left Twin,





posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 21:05  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


West Coast 'Chop' Route

Thursday, 3 April 2008

West Coast 'Chop' Route

Please consider signing this petition as it will effect all of you, who visit the west coast to climb on Ben Nevis and Glen Coe hills.

It is clear that the A82 is a very dangerous road to travel and is in need of a major upgrade.

Please read the details on the link above and sign now.


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 16:42  3 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Ropes still in Place

Tuesday, 1 April 2008

Hi Alan we climbed North east Buttress on Monday and passed the two ropes hanging down. We didn't want to carry them so left them as they were.
North East buttress was in good nick. We found the Mantrap very hard. Harder than anything on Point Five!
Great Site. Keep up the good work

Simon at Urbanrock


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 22:48  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


More 'Booty' on the Ben for returning

Minus Two Gully 2nd (?) pitch.

Minus Two Gully 3rd (?) pitch

Reveal your character - Return the gear - See below.

Hi Alan

Just a quick request/plea to you, or any of your vast army of readers who might be in the NE Buttress area over the next few days.

Due to time constraints/condits/general feckwittedness, I regretfully left a couple of Beal 8.1mm iceline ropes (one mauve colour, one pink) on the lower half of NE Buttress, just dangling down to the right end of the First Platform on Sunday night.

If anyone does come across these and is kind enough to retrieve them, rather than swipe them as booty, there's a sizeable reward for return of mauve rope, plus they get to keep the pink one!

(Oh, and there's a manky bit of blue tat they're attached to that's up for grabs as well...)

We did Minus 2, by the way, which was fluffy and cruddy on the first pitch, but improved the higher you got - as did the spindrift avalanches! All very character-building. Here's also some pics of the unfazeable Susan Jensen shrugging off the spindrift streams with unwarranted cheerfulness. I wish I could climb like a girl...

Cheers,
Col
--

Colin Wells

7 The Marshes

Hope

Derbyshire

S33 6RL

UK

+44(0)1433 623539

Minus Two Gully - 2nd (?) pitch.

Minus Two Gully - 3rd (?) pitch

Minus Two Gully - 1st pitch

NB:
Minus Two is a good route for descending by abseil as the anchors are good and the line direct.
Alan


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 13:14  0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


Definitely Getting Colder




posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:13  1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment


© Alan Kimber, Calluna, Heathercroft, Fort William, PH33 6RE, Scotland
T: +44 (0)1397 700451 | F: +44 (0)1397 700489
E: