These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Today on Ben Nevis

Monday, March 31, 2008

Thanks to Colin Reilly for this good set of images showing all the fun of today on Ben Nevis

Cornice on Number Four Gully

Coire Leis

Looking back to Ledge Route and The Great Buttress of Carn Dearg

Starting along the CMD Arete

Looking up Observatory Gully from beneath N.E. Buttress.

Route Major and associated direct starts to N.E.Buttress looking good.

Castle Gullies

Young 'Bucks' on Ledge Route. Colin, you'll need to feed that lad of yours some raw meat!

Around 2-3 metres of snow on the summit.

Number Four Gully

On Ledge Route today

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 7:44 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

The Dogs

Simply put today was good! Tomorrow not so good, but by the weekend icebergs on the Loch.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 5:43 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

More Cold Weather Coming

More cold weather coming for the middle of April. Check out this weblink to weather and head north folks. This is just what we need to keep on ice climbing. Anything with a blue tint on the charts means cold weather. The daily charts are particularly good. The only slight downside is they do not show the position of weather fronts. Use your imagination! With the current snow and ice coverage these charts point towards a very good late season on Ben Nevis

Bouldering

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:03 PM 2 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Bunkhouse Bouldering

Bunkhouse Bouldering

A new addition at my place for all of those wet days we sometimes get in Fort William. Lots of space at the Bunkhouse and the ice climbing is still fantastic if you fancy some April ascents of Nevis classics. Everything to go for just now and the weather is still cool with more to come. Anyone for Point Five Gully in May?

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:57 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Plenty of new snow and bouldering

Sunday, March 30, 2008

A new bouldering wall in Fort William. Built by Scott Muir and set by Dave Macleod

Loch Laggan this morning.

Teams out on Orion Face today

Approaching the CIC Hut today

The Curtain is complete just now.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 6:48 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Flying Axes

Friday, March 28, 2008

Hi Alan,

Sounds like the Ben is littered with ice axes at the moment... I carelessly managed to drop a Quark hammer down point five on Wednesday and too much fresh snow to find it. So if anyone comes across it a call would be great. Number is 07831366603.

Sam Chinnery

Thanks Sam,

It nearly 'crowned' an instructor working for me!! Springtime gear hunting will be productive. I'll post your request. Certainly it will now be well buried beneath the latest 'dump'. Was that climbing leash less? You may not have realised it but some other kit came down that day. Check your rack!

Alan

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:37 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Interpretation of Conditions

Firstly, may I say how useful I have found your information in the past. Thank you for your efforts! This week, however, I was surprised to see a comment by Duncan Francis where he quoted Deep Cut as in perfect condition. I have done the route before in excellent conditions and I also did the route the day after Duncan (this Wednesday). This week it provided a good day out and the ice was reasonable in the lower sections but the top was extremely thin. Whatever your tastes, in no way was the route anywhere near in perfect nick and a grade 3 leader wanting to test themselves on some perfect nick 4 would have found it very testing. Admittedly there is the chicken run out right below the top section (itself a very worthwhile variant). Keep up the good work, but I shall view some comments with caution from now on. P.S. Comb Gulley on The Ben yesterday gave a very enjoyable grade 4 in very good and quite easy conditions (honest!).

Gary Baum

Thanks Gary,

The vagaries of Scottish winter conditions! As I was not on the route I cannot say how good (thick) or bad (thin)it was. Last year some people were raving about climbing 'thin' ice routes on Psychedelic Wall, when in fact they were as thick as they had been for years. I put up a picture of Poacher's Gully last week and the author had it down as 'lean' conditions, but it looked very good ice to me with plenty of options, albeit once again all I had was a photo.

Personally I think 'thin' ice can still be very good to climb on so long as you are precise with your placements. It's when the ice gets 'thin' and 'cruddy' that I start to question good conditions.

Just goes to show how careful we should be when taking someone else's recommendations of conditions. You are correct to question it though and hopefully this blog will reflect the truth and not lead to accidents from suspect reporting.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 3:53 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

More snow and poor weather

Poor weather overnight has dumped a load of new snow on the mountains. Beware of avalanche hazard over the weekend.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:20 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Ben Nevis 'Dressed-Up' and SHINING

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Simply fantastic day in and around Fort William. Friday looks nasty and wintry on the tops and the weekend should produce more snow as well.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 6:38 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

How would you feel if you lost this much kit?

Hello Alan

On Monday 24 March I fell 40 ft off the Cascade I was airlifted off luckily I sustained no serious injuries.
I did leave a fair amount of gear at the Cascade 5 icescrews,2 50 metre ropes,a pair of x monster ice axes one still in the main cascade face plus various slings and runners.
I was just wondering if you had heard from any one who had been up and found the gear .
I would be very grateful for any help you can contact me on 017687 78103 or 07938027899
or on this e-mail address.

Many thanks

Neil

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:23 AM 1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Unsettled but Wintry coming through

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Alan,

I climbed Point Five Gully on Sunday with Bruce Poll and thought you may want to put a couple of pictures on your web site. The route was excellent and the 4am start although a bit early meant we were on pitch 3 before anyone else started approaching the start of the route.
Bruce is a really nice guy and I hope he is available next time I am up in Scotland.

A spell of unsettled weather is set to push through, but not too mild and the winter just keeps rolling along!

Point Five Gully - 'Rogue' pitch last Sunday.

Point Five Gully - Second pitch, starting the chimney.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:45 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Tons to go for

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Alan,

Deep Cut Chimney on Stob Coire nam Beith today...... in perfect nick, and all to ourselves. Great route, and fantastic views from the top, including the clag on the Ben...... To be fair, we did see another pair on Central Gully on our way down, but as they were only half way up at quarter to five, hope that they had their headtorches!

Duncan Francis

Thanks to Alba Mountaineering for this photo.

Hi Alan.

Just had a great day on Golden Oldie. Had the whole face to ourselves great conditions best I have seen over there for ages. Picture enclosed. If you need a good quiet gr 3 spare Rib gully looks excellent at the moment loads of ice in it and all the buttresses are well rhymed and frozen.

Also The Curtain and Italian R-Hand on Nevis were climbed today. The Curtain was a little 'thin' but still okay. The medium-term weather looks set to continue cold until at least the start of April if not more.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:44 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Plenty More all over Scotland

Monday, March 24, 2008

Alan,
A couple of photos of Poachers falls climbed in lean conditions on Saturday. Photo 52 shows the route from below. Photo 55 shows the top pitch and photo 57 shows the bay / groove above the second steep ice fall. Paul and I stayed at the the Aultguish Inn above Garve: both the route and the bunk house were absolutely spot on! A fabulous excursion to the north west. Great site: full of useful reckoning.
Regards, Charles Pickles.

Thanks Charles. Looks pretty thick to me. Well done.

Alan,

Couple of days ago, NE Ridge of Aonach Beag; no-one on the whole mountain. Yesterday, Hidden Gully on Stob Coire nam Beith; no-one on the whole mountain. Today, Crowberry Gully; blue skies, hard neve, and empty! Saw two teams on Curved Ridge, but apart from that, the mountain was bare....

Is it me?!

Duncan Francis

It's not for the want of trying Duncan. Maybe people do not believe the weblog. Apparently even Wales has snow. Must be playing havoc with the sale of chalk balls!

Crowberry Gully

Aonach Beag

Crowberry Gully

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:34 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

metatasalgia-supraspinatus - Pain in the?

Happy Easter Alan!

A multitude of car problems, 3 months of treating a supraspinatus
(shoulder) injury and a recurrence of metatasalgia (foot pain) had
combined to lessen my winter climbing this year although it's simply
allowed for some wonderful walking and bike rides in quieter areas
from Knoydart to Caithness. I went up to the Ben last week to test my
shoulder on The Cascade and all went well, so an Easter Sunday visit
was next. The early morning drive north was beautiful and I couldn't
help but stop frequently for photos!

The Ben was a sociable place with a real holiday atmosphere about it,
especially at the foot of the Orion Face, where one party was already
established on Zero, another on Orion Direct, and two teams behind
me, one of which also set off on Orion Direct with the other going
for the Directissima start. I was there to solo Slav Route, which at
420m long would provide a slightly different experience from my 50m
outing the week before! The lower crux icefall was certainly not in
the broad ramp-like shape of last year, forming as a steep icicle
instead. There was also a lot of abseil tat hanging around just below
it! Above this, good route-finding is needed although the quality of
the ice was superb throughout and lots of weaving up steep-ish steps
keeps it interesting. The final chimney was plastered in hoar and
provided a struggle suitable of an upper crux, as it was difficult to
find where the ice was. I managed to squeeze up the steep extreme
right hand corner where the ice was pretty continuous, all whilst
being drowned in spindrift. A fantastic route and thoroughly
recommended.

It was difficult to see over to the main Orion headwall routes due to
thick clag but it seemed that very little (?) was in condition with
the exception of Astral. The bow-shaped corner of the Directissima
also looked doubtful but this can only be speculation of course.
There were a lot of walkers on the summit enjoying the zero
visibility and I met a team who had just come up an icy Psychedelic
Wall. I dropped down Tower Gully which is in an easy access state as
I wanted a look at Le Nid d'Aigle. The steep slopes beneath Indicator
Wall felt pretty tenuous with a lot of fresh snow, and the whole area
was eerily quiet with just one team on Smith's. Kellett's Route is in
fatter condition than last year but it was difficult to judge whether
The Great Glen would be climbable at the moment. I had a bad feeling
about the possible condition of the upper slopes on Indicator Wall
(maybe unfounded?) so retreated back to the hut where I then had to
run back to the car park (35mins!) and make the 100+mile drive to
drop off the hire car - I managed it with 3mins to spare before the
depot closed! Phew!

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:32 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Glen Coe and Old Trafford in great shape!

Hi Al - A 10pm start from Ilkley was rewarded, and deservedly so after a 2hr blizzard on the M6/M74. Turning onto the A84 the sky cleared and moonlight danced on the lochan's as driving conditions improved considerably - as did potential for hitting roaming deer. Disturbing a Short Eared Owl on a post by the Glencoe Ski Centre was the highlight of the most testing drive in fifteen years of winter weekends. Half an hour behind schedule at twilight meant a slight change of plan so after leaving Anny snoozing in the car with instructions to be in the Clachaig at mid-day, I donned crampons, a second axe and struck up icy mixed terrain with bomber turf placements on the South East Ridge of Am Bodach. A fun climb with many variations possible, grades also, though I hope parties setting off at a more reasonable time of day weren't fooled into thinking my tracks led directly and safely to the summit. . As usual, the first 20 minutes after Alpenglow started warming the summits proved the finest for landscape photography, so a few enclosed. A good fill noticed in SC Gully and my mind goes back to Easter 1999 when Glencoe offered such good winter climbing. Thanks for recommending that I took my crampons and second axe - just in case!!
The drive back a wee bit more pleasant with regular updates from Old Trafford, though with yet another 'Swiss Watch Weekend' complete without mishap, I was in My Local in Ilkley to see the second half of the next game. Poor old Arsenal!! I reckon Rafa will keep a job when they complete Arsenals misery in the Champions league tie. After all, the second game yesterday was all about second place anyway! Regards Mark.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 12:07 PM 1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Tip Top on the Tower

Tower Ridge in great conditions yesterday and it is the same today. Plenty of action all over Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor and Glen Coe. The Curtain is formed and also Vanishing Gully for those who prefer not to walk too far for their excitement!

Glover's Chimney snapping at your heels on the exit to Tower Gap.

Cheerful climbers negotiating the 'Fallen Block' pitch on the Eastern Traverse of Tower Ridge. The tunnel is completely covered with perfect snow-ice.

Eastern Traverse spiced up with a very narrow foot-ledge and some spindrift thrown in for good measure.

This morning (24th March) looking into the North Face. Some lines not normally in conditions appear to be forming well, especially on the Minus Face.

Looking back towards Tower Ridge yesterday afternoon.

More detail this morning. Any ice smears would be worth a look.

Gloomy this morning, but cold and dry. The rest of the week looks okay until Friday, when another band of snowy weather is set to descend. Bring on the icebergs to the west coast!!

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:42 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Found an Axe Today

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Anyone who may have lost an axe above Aonach Mor East Face, please get in touch as I may be able to re-unite you with your spiky friend!

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:54 PM 2 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Cold - Dry - Blue Skies

Another very fine day with not too much wind and plenty of Glue-like snow ice. We visited the East Face of Aonach Mor, descended Easy Gully on abseil and climbed Muddy Waters. Another descent of Easy Gully was followed by a fairly sociable trip up Left Twin. All parties were moving well, so not a lot of time wasted.
Climber on the first pitch of Typhoon, which looked in good shape.

Belay after the hard second pitch of Left Twin.

Riming on the Vodafone mast on Aonach Mor.

The first pitch on the chimney of Muddy Waters. Good anchors and runners.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:00 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Winter is Biting Deep

Friday, March 21, 2008

Cold conditions look set to continue to the end of the month. Bring it on!

Hi Alan

Was out on Ben with David Shortt from Stirling today and the
conditions were magnificent, the ice and snow that is......the wind
was fierce, but occasional clearings made it an exciting day. We
climbed Green Gully in perfect conditions. The rain yesterday has
turned the existing snow into neve and the ice was like glue. Even
better, the descent was on perfect snow all the way to bottom of the
red burn. If wind moderates slightly tomorrow it should be even
better. The strong north winds are sending most fresh snow clear over
the top and the frozen surface of the neve isn't holding much of the
new snow so it is heading right off the mountain.

Regards

Chris Dickinson

Look in and see what we are doing with the Nepal School's Project!
Chris Dickinson

Today looking into Ben Nevis.

Hi Alan,

We enjoyed our stay at Calluna if it was only for four and half hours to make the most of the weather before retreating from the a wet CIC this morning and heading back to Wales. Thanks. just a quick report for the blog. We climbed Orion direct on Tues, which was in reasonable condition but thick ice patches for ice screw protection were very limited. Astral was climbed on the same day and looks in good shape and will no doubt survive Thursday's thaw. I explained the way to the aspirant pair we met at the top of the Basin who wanted to climb it. Up to the headwall, turn left and then its first on the right. You can't miss it! This tickled Gerwyn. Wednesday we climbed Observatory Ridge. What a magnificent climb. I'm disappointed to see the new Ben Nevis guide as removed the section...Climbers often find it more difficult than the two gullies on either side. A fine test of route finding, mixed climbing, ice work and a little torquing as we turned the second tower on the right! Interesting to contrast to Orion and we personally found the second day a greater challenge.

Take care Matt Sutton

Today...Good Friday, the cold northerlies are crunching down, with blustery, wintry showers attached. Good Friday Climb might be rather hazardous from avalanche (?).

Quite a lot of news from Skye of successful Cuillin traverse attempts on good snow

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:41 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Wee bit stormy and damp

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Hi Alan,
Myself and climbing partner Wojtek completed a night traverse of the Aonach Eagach Ridge Tuesday/Wednesday ( 18th/19th ) under a beautiful full moon and star filled night. Started from the devils staircase all the way through to the Pap, very long tough night. Lots of snow about, however on the steep ascent and descents the rock very bare so dry tooling almost!! Great night and all because of the great W.H.Murray.
Cheers,

Well done guys and thanks for the photos. A really good trip and great memories.

Alan,
Visited the Northern Corries yesterday and headed up to the Lochain. Massive amounts of unconsolidated snow in the corrie with perilous cornices hanging over most of the gully lines. Quite a few of them curling round to form caves or tubes like a Hawaiian surfers dream. Climbed Ewan Buttress a short but very pleasant route climbable in most conditions. The photos I've attached show Nick Bryan on the crux second pitch, exiting the final chimney and topping out..

Ross Nicol

Today (20th March) has been stormy and a little damp. However, the front has now moved through and is sucking in a N.W. airflow. This will in turn be showery and cold and wintry, so improving the snow pack hopefully. Sunday & Monday look to be the calmer days at the moment with winds going even closer to the north.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 4:25 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Better conditions

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Thanks to Tim Blakemore for the two images below taken today on Ben Nevis. Tim climbed The Cascade followed by Fin Gourmet, then an abseil into Number Three Gully and back up Thompson's Chimney. Good value sort of day out from this new aspirant BMG Guide and his client Ian!

Plenty of ice on Comb Gully Buttress

Looking down Thompson's Chimney.

An experienced team phoned in from Point Five Gully today and said that it was in great shape. Just goes to show what a little dampness followed by a hard overnight frost can do. Expect more of the same over the next week or so.

Another rope back from Vanishing Gully said it was dripping early this morning, but still good for a climb.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 4:06 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Some good - Some not so good

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Approaching the hut this morning, it looked as though the forecast was spot-on.

On the first pitch of Hadrian's Wall. Plenty of snow and ice, but not in the best of shape,

Finishing in cloud and some snow. What happened to the blue skies?

Today the conditions on Hadrian's Wall were mixed and improved as height was gained, The first pitch is crusty and does not take ice screws very well. The remainder of the climb was okay, but still fairly 'cruddy' in places, requiring some digging to find good ice. Parties on Point Five Gully found similar conditions, as did a team on Psychedelic Wall. A rope emerging out of Smith's Route said it was in great shape. It certainly looked that way from below. Another couple reported good conditions on Italian Climb.

It would appear that Nevis needs a little 'wetting-out' followed by a freeze to bring in really good conditions. That said, it is still worth a visit with plenty on offer.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 5:20 PM 1 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

East or West? Just head north!

Monday, March 17, 2008

Hey up, here are some pics of the Ben to encourage folk North !!

Cheers Dan

Danny Goodwin

Me, Jim Finnie and Dave Fitzgerald went up Stob Ghabhar yesterday. Dave and I did the classic Upper Couloir in fine alpine conditions. 'Rectum Flutterer' Fitzgerald managed to shorten to the rope so I couldn't include the ice pitch in my run out. Having 'stolen the crux from my grasp' he did at times appear to not enjoy the resultant position (he'll supply the appropriate excuses)! Grand route and excellent approach up the lower couloir…..and we had not only the route but the whole mountain to ourselves.

What a stoater!!!

Regards

Douglas

Dougie,
I was on holiday yesterday, so I just read your e-mail and had a look
at your photo's this morning. Well done Big Guy, but if, as you said, you
had the mountain to yourselves, why is there a lollipop man at the top of
the gully pulling you up?

Cheers ... Lance Legover.

....."What really happened".... according to one member of the party (?)

Now all of the monkeys have gone south with their chalk bags the weather is going ape. Sincerely hope it's not too rainy in North Wales!!

This is part of an old post, but I'd be surprised if the conditions have changed much, in fact they could have improved.

Hey Alan

Henning and I had a fabulous day out on Carn Etchachan last Thursday. Henning led the Guillotine (V,6) via the Route Major approach pitches, and I followed on a nice tight auto-belay. It's a classic Cairngorms route, with lots of delicate hooking and pointing on tiny grains and some nice off-balance torquey corners. And it was in classic Cairngorms nick-- lots of powder, plenty of crud, some frozen turf, almost no usable nevé. It's a wonderful route--Andy Nisbet (who's repeating it tomorrow, he said) is so right to upgrade it from one * to three *** in the new Gorms Guide. And Carn Etchachan/ Shelter Stone is a bigger and better and more atmospheric venue than anything in the Norries. It's only another hour from the top of the Goat Track, yet there was at most one other team in the whole Avon basin.
I should think this weekend will be full-on winter in the Cairngorms as well as the west!

Attached a few photos of 'the Guillotine' which Tim and I did. A very good, adventurous climb with a lot of variety that includes a hard chimney, a cave pitch and a crux overhang right at the top.

Best wishes,

Henning

Flattish walk in compared to the west coast. Good for an easy day!

Why the route is named Guillotine !

Womb-like climbing.

Great views.

Web topos of routes, the way to go in future?

Big crags with a good bivvy at the foot of the routes for hardy folk.

Hi Alan

Hope you're well. You may remember you took me up .5 last winter. I'm
trying to find a partner for an outing in the NW either tomorrow or Tues
- I wondered whether you might be able to advertise this on your
conditions page?

Regards,

Mark

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 8:48 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Stellar Day

Sunday, March 16, 2008

As often happens at this time of the year the conditions are coming good and today was no exception. Plenty of action all over Ben Nevis and at all grades and types. The snowpack is still not completely solid and some route sections are a little 'cruddy' in places. However, the climbing is generally good and the weather is dry for now. ..."Eat your hearts out"... all you JG & PyB teams who have taken their chalk bags off south! The REAL fun is just starting up north.

Sickle, Orion, Point Five, all climbed today.

Hi Alan

Hope you're well. You may remember you took me up .5 last winter. I'm
trying to find a partner for an outing in the NW either tomorrow or Tues
- I wondered whether you might be able to advertise this on your
conditions page?

Regards,

Mark

Hello Alan
I thought you might be interested in some info re conditions in Glencoe. I was out today Saturday with a friend David whom I had been in Rjukan with and we went up to Coire nam Beith, The snow below the main crags was just dry but there was running water on rock slabs. We went higher and climbed the corridors with the direct start which had minimal ice but was still possible with a few hooks into turf, getting up the 2nd pitch things were a bit better but some slabby snow as well. Carefully crossed over to climb the Gash in the pm and it was a lovely climb. Some white ice and good neve with a few delicate moves on thin stuff to get over all the chockstones. Lower down needs a freeze, and higher up would benefit a thaw then freeze. I guess it will be the former. Have you any free time for a climb this week or next? After that its non stop sailing.
Hope all is well with you all.
Regards Robert Kincaid

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:26 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Aonach Beag

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Alan,

Got away from the crowds again yesterday on the NE Ridge of Aonach Beag. A long slog through deep soggy snow to get there, but an excellent airy route once you get on the ridge. Blue skies and sunshine, complete solitude and frozen turf and good neve; what more could you want?

Duncan Francis

Thanks Duncan. Plenty of action today on Ben Nevis on a number of big classic V's, including Smith's, Orion, Slav Route, Hadrian's. Lots of unconsolidated snow in Observatory Gully by all accounts from a team that climbed Tower Scoop. N.E. Buttress was good.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:23 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Good Weather settling in

The view from my bedroom this morning above a sea of cloud.

..."I thought of heading out to Chamonix, but if the 'Ben' comes good I'm staying at home"...This was a comment made to me on the phone this morning as the good weather settles in. We now have loads of snow, north winds and the avalanche hazard is coming down slightly (SLIGHTLY). If the weather charts are to be believed a spell of colder weather, especially on the summits is due to edge through to the end of the month. It is not solid high pressure, but a wedge of cold air from the north. The pattern does not appear to be thawing this lovely snowpack we are now blessed with. HEAD NORTH FOLKS.

Yesterday one team came back from N.E. Buttress, saying it was 'stonking'.

This idea of the Nevis Partnership and Highland Council to encourage outdoor tourism! The alternative in Steall Gorge would have been to make safe the spots where inquisitive tourists get too close to the fatal drop. That would have been too simple and put the minority noses out of joint. Last weekend in the Sunday Telegraph this iconic walk from the head of Glen Nevis received high praise as being in the top ten 'Best Walks' category in Britain.

Check out Nevis Partnership or John Muir Trust if you have an issue with signs such as this in mountainous areas. They either own/manage the Steall Gorge.

Hey Alan

Henning and I had a fabulous day out on Carn Etchachan last Thursday. Henning led the Guillotine (V,6) via the Route Major approach pitches, and I followed on a nice tight auto-belay. It's a classic Cairngorms route, with lots of delicate hooking and pointing on tiny grains and some nice off-balance torquey corners. And it was in classic Cairngorms nick-- lots of powder, plenty of crud, some frozen turf, almost no usable nevé. It's a wonderful route--Andy Nisbet (who's repeating it tomorrow, he said) is so right to upgrade it from one * to three *** in the new Gorms Guide. And Carn Etchachan/ Shelter Stone is a bigger and better and more atmospheric venue than anything in the Norries. It's only another hour from the top of the Goat Track, yet there was at most one other team in the whole Avon basin.
I should think this weekend will be full-on winter in the Cairngorms as well as the west!

Best
Tim Chappell

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:06 AM 2 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

More good weather on the way

Friday, March 14, 2008

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for the three images below. Taken yesterday on Ledge Route, which is stoked out with snow just now. Just be quick and attentive when getting on to the foot of the ridge where it is threatened by No 5 Gully avalanches. Keep well right in the gully and be prepared to jump up right quickly if you see anything sliding down from above in the gully.

The hills are plastered with snow and fine weather is forecast into next week. Just take care with route selection to avoid any avalanche hazard and it's looking good.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:43 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Skye Advice

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Dear Alan Kimber, I am medical student for London as well as a keen mountaineer. I would like to ask you advise given your familiarity and guiding history in the Cuillins.

I have visited the Cuillins every east for the last four years and find it to be a breathtaking and spectacular are with some of the best mountaineering routes the UK has to offer. This year a group of members of our mountaineering club (including myself) will be heading off on Saturday 15th March for a weeks stay at the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut.

Weather reports currently show snow showers are higher levels however several web cams I have seen of the Cuillins show no snow even on the higher peaks.

Could I ask your expert advise on weather you think it is worth bring crampons and ice axes? It is difficult to get a scope of what the current conditions are like here from London, and we are trying to save weight in our cars. We took them last year after reports of snow at the higher levels and had seven days of glorious sunshine and clear blue skies (regrettably with no snow).

I appreciate the weather in the Cuillins changes very quickly, and are asking for your professional opinion. Our mountaineering club has always taken safety seriously and adhere to and recognise the BMC policy that states that those who partake in our activities do so at there own risk and as such take personal responsibility for their actions. What I trying to say is we will not hold you accountable for any reply (or lack of) you make to us, we are asking on in the spirit of comradeship from one climber to another.

I would be grateful for any advise you can impart,

Regards

Brijesh R Patel
Equipments and Safety Officer
Bart’s and The London Alpine Club

l always take crampons and axe at this time of the year. I have copied your request to a local instructor, living at the foot of the Cuillin.

Alan

Hi,
This was shot yesterday (FWA Bowers Climb, Sgurr Alasdair). Since then a lot of snow has fallen to 1500ft. I'd back up what Alan said regarding axe& crampons as well as small sections of rope 30m scrambling), harnesses & helmets for all those going into the Black Cuillin.
Have a great trip. I'll be away I'm afraid so won't be able to update you.
Best wishes,
Mike Lates
Established in 1995 the company is run by Mike Lates who is author of the forthcoming Scottish Mountaineering Club guidebook to climbing in the Cuillin

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:22 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Plenty of Snow and Cold and Windy

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for the three images below.

Yesterday on the East Ridge of Beinn a'Chaorainn

Today on Dorsal Arete

Yesterday on Beinn a'Chaorainn

Stob Ban today from Glen Nevis

The wintry weather is still pumping in snow on the west to north-westerly airflow. Avalanches will be a problem, but lots to do on ridges and buttresses. Trail-blazing in the deep snow will be difficult at times. However, it's all looking good at the moment and when (?) it clears up the climbing should be good. Take care with your choice of route and approach to climbs.

Lots of avalanche activity reported today, so route choice is key to success and survival at the moment,

Stob Ban above Glen Nevis taking the full brunt of the blustery, wintry winds which are streaming across Scotland at the moment.

Teams coming back from over East yesterday reported plenty of snow and fine weather.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:11 AM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Fine and Sunny until mid-day

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Very pleasant weather and loads of snow. The poor weather came in during early afternoon. Teams out in the Cairngorms reported very good conditions. More snow forecast for the Scottish mountains. New routes going up on The Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis. The winter is still going very well all over.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:13 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

Lovely Day out West

Monday, March 10, 2008

Plenty of snow on the hills and not too much wind. I'm still having problems uploading images to the blog. Is anyone else experiencing similar issues?

Hi Alan,

Yesterday Adam and I did Stirling Bomber (V,7) in Sneachda. Great and
very well protected climbing with a wild crux swing out of the corner at
the top. As close to mixed sport climbing as it gets!

Henning

The forecast is looking wintry until after Easter.

Alan,

Cairngorms was the place to be on Sunday! Climbed Route major (IV,5) on Carn Etchachan on good neve and frozen turf (but no ice) in windy but excellent conditions with patches of sunshine and just a few snow flurries. Loch Avon basin was otherwise completely empty of people, although plenty to go for on Carn Etchachan and Shelterstone. Hell’s Lum is just full of snow, as is Castlegates Gully; keep away from both!

Duncan Francis

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 2:34 PM 0 comments
view this post with comments post a comment

We was Robbed but rewarded on Curved Ridge