These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Wild and very 'Woolly'

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Plenty of character revealing weather on the Scottish hills today!

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill of Alba Mountaineering again for for this collection below taken on Ledge Route, Ben Nevis today. Plenty of very characterful weather to increase the amount of unstable snow around. More gales and blizzards are heading our way and Friday looks even colder and more snowy.

Looking towards N.E. Buttress from the CIC Hut.

The Great Buttress of Carn Dearg on Ben Nevis.

On Ledge Route.

Lunch in an emergency snow-cave.

And another snow-cave.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 8:42 PM 0 comments
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Blizzards and strong winds

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill of Alba Mountaineering again for for this collection below taken on Stob Ban in the Mamores yesterday, and Dorsal Arete today. Plenty of very characterful weather to increase the amount of unstable snow around. More gales and blizzards are heading our way over the next few days, so pack an extra 'jumper'.

Topping out on North Gully on Stob Ban (Mamores) yesterday.

Rugged progress on Dorsal Arete. A fine choice to avoid any avalanches which were being set off by some other groups in the area (?).

A good route for teaching simple winter climbing.

On the approach to Dorsal Arete try to avoid being beneath any of the larger gullies which did release today.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 7:53 PM 0 comments
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Colder today and snowing

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Just back from a quick trip to Rjukan, where we climbed three multi-pitch routes. Bolgen (WI3) and Tomenn Og Et Faster (WI4) on Saturday. The pictures below show the Sunday route in the Mael amphieatre, which was Isroser (WI3+). This area provided us with some good adventure abseiling in, plus a somewhat prolonged descent after topping-out in the dark into neck-deep powder and terrain covered in wind-blown timber as well as Birch and Alder scrub, all adding to one and a half hours to cover 400 metres of struggle to find the descent track. Great fun though and thanks to Mike Anderson for the pictures below

This shot below shows how important the community of Rjukan feel that ice climbing is to the local economy. Floodlights on the iced up crags to allow climbing to continue into the night. This situation is also replicated in France and Switzerland.

What chance The Highland Council firing up some beams into Stob Coire nan Lochan or towards the Orion Face on a clear night?

Getting colder in Scotland and still plenty of snow above 700 metres, although the weekend weather did a lot of damage.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:15 PM 0 comments
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Mild this weekend then Cold next week

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill of Alba Mountaineering again for for this collection below taken on Curved Ridge today. Tonight the weather has gone ballistic with driving rain and hurricane force winds,

A Cold Snap is on its way after this dreadful spell goes through. Looks like it could start on 28/29th January. Check out the link which shows blue as the cold area as the winds turn into a more northerly direction. Today has been 'rugged' out on the hills and snow down to sea-level at times. It is now settling above about 300 metres, but looks set to rise over the weekend, before heading towards some cooler conditions, if this amateur weather forecaster gets it right:0))

Off to Norway this weekend.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 5:44 PM 0 comments
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Mild weather on the way

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill of Alba Mountaineering again for for this collection below taken on The Runnel today in the Cairngorms, where the wet encroachment of weather from the Atlantic was delayed for a while.

It looks like a spell of mild weather on the way, with High pressure in just the wrong place, dragging up warm and damp southerly winds from the Atlantic. All is not too bleak however as the amount of snow that has been blasted in to the western hills over the previous fortnight will take a lot of shifting...hopefully!

Be prepared for wet weather after Thursday for a few days.

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Well Wintry on Tower Ridge

Monday, January 21, 2008

More Axes dropped - see below. Maybe going leashless is not such a good idea after all:0))

Hi Alan

Hope you don't mind as we have never met; I've attached three photos of Green Gully and Morwind on the 20th, a little report and in return would like use your site as a means of attempting to locate a Grivel alpwing axe (adze) dropped on green gully.

Conditions:
Green gully 19/1/08, 1st pitch was a wee bit chossy, the remaining pitches had limited ice with considerable snow and no real cornice to contend with.

Morwind 20/1/08, (very enjoyable) lean with no real ice build up and deep windslab leading to the cornice which was insignificant.

cheers
Rick Asher
07971 275309
Green Gully - Belay at the end of the second pitch

Morwind on Aonach Mor - First Pitch

Thanks to Andy Ravenhill of Alba Mountaineering for this special collection below taken on Tower Ridge today. Conditions are good and we have plenty of space at the bunkhouse this week and into the weekend.

Little Tower - Tower Ridge

Great Tower, towards the 'GAP' - Tower Ridge

Eastern Traverse - Tower Ridge

A fine end to a great day. Descending from Ben Nevis

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 6:49 PM 0 comments
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Great Conditions

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Dear Alan,

Many thanks for your excellent website.

Just writing to let you know about some fantastic conditions on North East Buttress - good neve for first time placements, some ice forming low down taking screws however little on the Mantrap or 40 Corner so needed the Tough-Brown Variant to avoid a very late finish!

A strong Hungarian team found Point 5 challenging, whilst a Chester pair completed Cresta without too many problems - however the icy pitch at the top proved to be high in the grade.

One last request Alan please - would you mind advertising that we lost a Charlet Moser Axar (Adze) somewhere between the summit and car park (descent via Red Burn) on Saturday evening. Would you mind passing on email details if anyone comes forward? Or mobile no 07775 946216.

Many Thanks jeremy windsor

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 10:19 PM 2 comments
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Scotland 'Showing Off'

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Two English Mountain Guides came back today and were 'knocked over, by the weather and snow conditions. One said Scotland was 'showing off' after an ascent of Tower Ridge and descent of Castle Ridge. Another had climbed Summit Gully on Stob Coire nam Beith in Glen Coe and was so impressed that he felt ..."he had just climbed the best grade I snow gully anywhere in Scotland, if not Britain".... High praise indeed.

One more team who had had a wonderful day on Left Twin, East Face of Aonach Mor were also well pleased.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:47 PM 0 comments
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Last Saturday

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Hi Alan
Just thought I'd send you pictures of the Cobbler taken today. South East Ridge was on the agenda. Hard crust and slab evident with a layer of graupel underneath. The snowpack will benefit from freeze/thaw as there was plenty of snow about.
Regards
Alastair

Thanks Alastair, keep the photos and reports coming please folks.

Hi Alan

Was no-one else out on Saturday? We were walking on the Crianlarich hills and looking at the scenery, which was the most spectacular I have seen in many a year. Visibility was perfect - Ben More on Mull and Ben Nevis were both in view from the summit

I had never seen rolling snow accumulate in such perfect wheels as pictured here - there were several similar to this - and I had never previously found one with a natural spindle hole through the middle! The layering really shows the quality of this top layer of snow - cohesive within itself but with little adhesion to theunderlayer.

As there were substantial accumulations in hollows and gullies, and plenty of wind-slab, I dare say climbing conditions were less favourable . . . . . . but getting better this week?

I really like the web-site and the information it provides.

Cheers

Jethro

Thanks Jethro. The pictures taken by Rory are superb. My modem has been down for a few days at the weekend and I missed some super photos. A very good start to the winter. Please keep the pictures coming.

Of interest with the 'Swiss-Roll' snow formation is the fact that young children playing with these formations closer to towns and local parks, have been buried in them and died in the past. Run if you see one coming towards you!

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 2:25 PM 0 comments
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Conditions in and Out of Doors

Monday, January 14, 2008

Thanks for putting us up in your bunkhouse. It felt very luxurious after my usual haunt of the Macintyre Hut. Can you put some more heat into your drying room as my kit was pretty wet the next morning especially my gloves. We headed up to Stob Coire nan Lochan where my partner gives me the news that he forgot his guide book. We did Chimney Route with a variation onto inclination.There was a lot of snow, and yes it was very prone to avalanche slabbing off at a depth of approx 8". Another enjoyable day. Hope to see you again shortly wife and work permitting.

Thanks Dave,
An extra bar heater is already installed. Yours was not the only wet gear that night and I will get it sorted. At the moment I'm in the middle of revamping the drying rooms, so watch this space.
Your photo above is appreciated.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 5:40 PM 0 comments
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Still Snowing on the Tops

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Not a very pleasant day really, but it's still chucking down snow on the tops. One adventurous team staying at the bunkhouse went to try Albatross and found no rime ice at all much. They then transferred to Brass Monkey and had a struggle on that, eventually retreating back down Observatory Gully. They were digging snow pits to evaluate the avalanche hazard, but found very little potential. They did not get close to the top of any gullies and personally I feel if they had done, they might have descended the gully rather faster than expected!!

Still looking good for Saturday and cold into next week. Plenty of space at the bunkhouse and the Guides Training winter course is based here next week. The place to be?

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:31 PM 0 comments
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Pumping Snow - Howling Wind - Winter's Teeth

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Hurricane force winds laden with snow have been battering the Scottish hills. Whoopee!! Watch out for the sliding white monkeys on your back. Saturday looks good coming up but please take a look at SAIS

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 2:23 PM 0 comments
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New Path Route

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

The new path from Torlundy North Face Climber's Car Park can be seen heading south from Torlundy (Blue line).Kindly supplied by Nevis Partnership.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 5:11 PM 0 comments
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Lots more Snow

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Check out details of the New Path leading up to the North Face of Ben Nevis from the North Face Car park at Torlundy.Lots more snow today and it looks like more to come this week.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 8:16 PM 2 comments
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Wintry Storms Kicking In

Saturday, January 5, 2008

Hi Alan
Yesterday Henning led me up The Seam-- not our original plan, but it was blowing and spindrifting a lot, so we thought we'd better not push our luck on anything harder. The top pitch of The Seam is a wonderful place to be, even in the fierce conditions we were there in.

We didn't leave the car park till 1030 because that was when they opened the skiing road. Apparently the funicular railway was having trouble. (And why should climbers be blocked out because there's a skiing-related problem?? Grrr.) So although we climbed fast, we didn't finish till quite late. And then the walkout was unbelievable-- way harder than the climb. It was blowing a real hoolie by 430 and there was so much snow in the air that at times you literally couldn't see your own feet. There were chest-deep drifts to flounder in, and every time you got on top of a boulder to hop around the drifts, the wind blew you off-- back into the drifts. I've had a succession of late nights recently (long story) and my motor skills were very poor for dealing with this, so I fell a lot. (Curiously, my motor skills were fine on the climb itself, I suppose because I had more time to clock each move-- and also because, on the climb itself, I could see what I was doing.) We had to get out by dead reckoning, ten yards at a time, and in the end we roped up.

Moral of the story: If anyone's thinking of heading up to the Gorms today or tomorrow, I can only advise them to be REALLY CAREFUL. The weather and the under-foot conditions are absolutely savage right now. If you've never been in weather like that, you will simply have no idea just how bad it can get, even in a supposedly innocuous spot like the Sneachda path.

Also it looks as though it has been snowing above 600 metres for most of the last 24 hours or more over on the west coast hills. Great news.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 4:36 PM 0 comments
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Lots of Snow

Friday, January 4, 2008

Plenty of new snow falling as the mild Atlantic air hits the High Pressure based over Russia. All good for the future really, so long as the weather does not turn tropical for too long. One team out today on the East Ridge of Beinn a' Chaorainn had a robust experience and came back to tell the tale!

Thanks to Andy Ravenhil of Alba Mountaineering for the picture above.

Alan,

Good day out on Aonach Mor, even with the roads being blocked and the chairlift not running, thus a long walk in! Did Left Twin, which was thin but good at III,4. Plenty of ice all along the crag, and cornices still manageable. Only a few other teams out.

Duncan Francis

Thanks for the report and photo Duncan, Alan.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 8:02 PM 0 comments
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Concrete Snow - Some Ice - Lots of Rocks - Baltic

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Some teams out on Green Gully and Point Five Gully today. Not much to go for, but what is their is pretty solid, if 'thin'.

posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 8:04 PM 1 comments
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