Belay Devices

Alan,


Have you had any one report any hang ups using the petzl reverso in guide mode on a direct belay?
The problem I experienced yesterday using a wet 11mm single rope is that the leader belaying a second and the second falls. The leader then cannot release the fallen second unless you get the weight off the rope. This was witnessed by an experienced MIA, who said this has happened to him. Also speaking with a team just back from the Alps who where in the Hornli Hutte, spoke to a mountain guide who had exactly the same problem with a client. Only rope tricks or ditching the unit and use the good old fashioned Italian hitch gets you out of trouble.

Cheers,

Derek (sherpadel)

Hi Derek,

All I have heard is that it is the best one so far. However, I have not used it myself. I have copied this to two mountain guides, one of whom (Mark) says it is a pretty good new tool. Roger is the Mountain Safety Adviser for MC of S and may have a view. You have spurred me into buying one now to go along with all the other devices I seem to be gathering in my kit store. Maybe Roger and I can go up to Glen Nevis and try it out, once the midges have gone away!

Watch this space and I will also put your query up on my blog to see if we get a response.

Cheers,

Alan


Just saw on your blog there about the reverso the old style used to lock up if fully loaded but the knew one is suppose to solve it there is a very well made Petzl video short here on the use and applications of it !

Cheers
Dan

Danny Goodwin

Thanks Danny.

Alan,

Just to let you know I up running with the new reverso3 and it works fine. Just got to be very careful if you are belaying two climbers at once and one falls. It releases fine and the krab locks into the slot nicely, but the ropes pass through the device quickly, dropping the other climber if they are not tied off or secured....beware!!! Therefore it needs lots of practice but feels similar to belaying with a gri gri when used in that mode. I used the method in the link to try and unload the rope and it didn't move. So now its Italian hitch and reverso3 depending on the route, clients etc.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Cheers,

Derek