Point Five Gully today (First Pitch)
Alan,
As your photo shows, another cracking Winter day on the Ben; and relatively empty! Did Point Five; won't say anything about it's condition for risk of being sued, but I didn't have to search for a second placement for either tool for the whole length of it! Picture of Simon on pitch one attached.
Unfortunately, on the descent (to look for the two dropped ice screws, but that's another story....) we then got involved in a rescue on Smith's Route. The belayer had failed to hold his second on a fall on the second pitch. The second fell all the way to the base of the route and was, amazingly, unhurt. The leader broke his hand, burnt his arm, neck and hand and was unconscious on the belay. Luckily, another team led by a guide (whoever it was; your bivvy jacket is hanging up in the CIC Hut as arranged), was able to lower the leader, and we got them both down. Aged 17 and 18, the second on his second winter route (first was Green Gully the day before), climbing on a single 8mm rope, and the leader was using a body belay as he had lost his bug. When the second fell, one of his belay ice screws came out, he was belaying the wrong way around and was twisted around between the remaining ice screw and rock gear; thus his loss of control of the rope, the burns and the faint.
A few lessons there perhaps?! The leader had taken his other 'mate', aged 16, up his first Winter route the day before.....Point Five!
Teams also seen on Orion Face, Good Friday Climb and Tower ridge.
Duncan Francis
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2 Comments:
I was also on Point Five on Wednesday in superb conditions. We were the last party on the route and found an ice screw at the base of the route. The owner is welcome to claim it back with an accurate description.
Andy Wardle
andy_wardle@hotmail.com
dear duncan
currently typing one handed. your report was correct and fair. too fair i belive. broke 2 bones in my hand, maybe surgery next week. serves me right.
i dont think this will aid my partner situation i was explaining to you on thhe walk down!
many thanks again for your help.
Ian Jackson.
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