Dear Alan Kimber, I am medical student for London as well as a keen mountaineer. I would like to ask you advise given your familiarity and guiding history in the Cuillins.

I have visited the Cuillins every east for the last four years and find it to be a breathtaking and spectacular are with some of the best mountaineering routes the UK has to offer. This year a group of members of our mountaineering club (including myself) will be heading off on Saturday 15th March for a weeks stay at the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut.

Weather reports currently show snow showers are higher levels however several web cams I have seen of the Cuillins show no snow even on the higher peaks.

Could I ask your expert advise on weather you think it is worth bring crampons and ice axes? It is difficult to get a scope of what the current conditions are like here from London, and we are trying to save weight in our cars. We took them last year after reports of snow at the higher levels and had seven days of glorious sunshine and clear blue skies (regrettably with no snow).

I appreciate the weather in the Cuillins changes very quickly, and are asking for your professional opinion. Our mountaineering club has always taken safety seriously and adhere to and recognise the BMC policy that states that those who partake in our activities do so at there own risk and as such take personal responsibility for their actions. What I trying to say is we will not hold you accountable for any reply (or lack of) you make to us, we are asking on in the spirit of comradeship from one climber to another.

I would be grateful for any advise you can impart,

Regards


Brijesh R Patel
Equipments and Safety Officer
Bart’s and The London Alpine Club

l always take crampons and axe at this time of the year. I have copied your request to a local instructor, living at the foot of the Cuillin.

Alan



Hi,
This was shot yesterday (FWA Bowers Climb, Sgurr Alasdair). Since then a lot of snow has fallen to 1500ft. I'd back up what Alan said regarding axe& crampons as well as small sections of rope 30m scrambling), harnesses & helmets for all those going into the Black Cuillin.
Have a great trip. I'll be away I'm afraid so won't be able to update you.
Best wishes,
Mike Lates
Established in 1995 the company is run by Mike Lates who is author of the forthcoming Scottish Mountaineering Club guidebook to climbing in the Cuillin