Alan Kimber - West Coast Mountain Guides Winter climbing courses

Latest winter climbing conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Wintry and unsettled on the way

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Today, Summit Gully on Stob Coire nam Beith - Glen Coe was in good shape. Also The Little Brenva Face from Danny Goodwin

Yesterday was a great day out. I climbed Gardyloo Gully with Jonny. The snow all the way up Observatory Gully was brick-hard. Some hopeful teams were fighting their way up a very sparse-looking Point Five Gully. The large French team staying in the CIC Hut were out early on Observatory Ridge, then traversing over to the upper ice falls above Hadrian's Direct. The first pitch of Hadrian's is certainly a very mixed (impossible?) proposition.

Thanks to Bren Whelan for this picture of ..'Yours Truly'.. topping out on Gardyloo Gully yesterday!

Alan Kimber on Gardyloo Gully


Tower Scoop needed a toll-booth at the start with crowds of people. Good Friday was busy and some blocks the size of large microwaves were being jettisoned from Psychedelic Wall. Fortunately they were poor 'shots' and nobody was in Observatory Gully at the time.

Gardyloo Buttress (Smith's) was busy and looked good and steep. Satanic Verses and other variations on the side wall of Gardyloo Gully were also occupied. Many teams were 'topping out' of Corrie na Ciste routes.

Gardyloo Gully has a wonderful tube cut up under the chockstone, which is actually quite awkward, especially with a rucsac on. The route is probably only grade II ish at the moment. The high pressure which has been supplying settled conditions is set to move over and allow more unsettled weather move in, so that should bring some more snow to the high hills hopefully.

I'm reminded of the winter 1989, when by mid-February the only snow of any note was halfway up Observatory Gully and very few routes were in good shape. On 23rd April that year I climbed Point Five Gully, Zero Gully and Orion Face all in one day, so don't be too disconsolate with the current thin conditions!

Corrie na Ciste - Ben Nevis
Red Deer browsing at the Half-way-Lochan

Popping out of the tunnel on Gardyloo Gully - Grade II

Thin climbing on Psychedelic Wall


Hanging out on Satanic Verses


Approaching the chockstone on Gardyloo Gully.

Ben Nevis summit area
Fine on top of Ben Nevis.

Satanic Verses
Satanic Verses



Alan

Here are a couple of pictures which I hope may be of interest - being sent during my annual trip up North from Bournemouth, rather than the week after for once. Oh the wonders of technology.

The view of Creagh Meaghaidh was taken yesterday and gives an indication of cover and the one on the Ben was taken during the spectacular conditions today(19th Feb). Why can't every day be like this?

Thanks for the Blog.

Philip

Dear Alan- Just a brief note to thank you for arranging our recent climbing in FW. Julie and I had a great time and no doubt will be back! Adam Hughes was a great guy and we felt very well looked after under his guidance. Would you kindly pass on our thanks to him. The trip up Ledge route on that wonderful fine day was spectacular.

Hope all goes well.

Best wishes

Mike & Julie


posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 1:56 PM 


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