New Climbers Facilities on Ben Nevis

Check out last Wednesdays report to match up with this photo. Thanks to Sylvi Cragrat for for her (?) skillful Photoshop rendering of the original. I wasn't considering putting the new Ben Nevis Hut so close to the summit:-))


Climbers, frustrated by the lack of facilities on Ben Nevis will be heartened by the news that national and local 'quangos' and self-interest groups have finally cut with the entrenched and minority view of no huts on Ben Nevis and will be visiting Switzerland to take note of best practice, with a view to applying for planning permission at the halfway lochan on Ben Nevis for a long overdue mountain lodge at that location. Many local climbers and walkers fully support this move and see it as a refreshing change in attitude and that their views actually count.

Only one detractor, Avril Wunerbee, the famous lone 'Tree Hugger' has threatened to strap herself to the contractors digger, which now stands ready at the climbers North Face car park.




Local Nevis 'Tree Huggers' have a plan to avoid congestion and erosion on Ben Nevis.

Artists impression of the new state of the art climbers 'Bogs' on Ben Nevis coming shortly!

Hello again,

I was back on the Ben yesterday (29th March) for a return to Scottish conditions -
grey, windy and thick mist although there were the odd spells of blue
skies (usually once I'd finished climbing!). Due to the fresh
snowfall and it's consistency, I was having occasional problems with
ice being wedged between my front points, something which anti-
balling plates won't prevent, and which could easily cause the points
from gripping so beware! (I AGREE PATRICK. ALSO ICE GETS STUCK UNDERNEATH THE GRIVEL BALL PLATE BUTTON, EFFECTIVELY REDUCING POINT PENETRATION BY 1CM. I FEEL THIS MAY CONTRIBUTE TO SLIPS IF CLIMBERS ARE NOT CAREFUL. ak)

I soloed Astral Highway, using the slightly steeper and fatter groove
to the right of the Orion Direct original start. Astral is in really
good condition with solid green ice involving a few steep pulls over
bulges as you exit the top left-hand corner of the Basin. It's a very
atmospheric route and easily as good as it's famous neighbour.

I then dropped down Tower Gully and soloed Kellett's Route, which
felt every inch it's VI,6 grade. I had spotted a team on Tuesday
tackling it by going up the easier-angled central part of the lower
face but I opted for the original line which takes the right-facing
corner and then breaks out right up an icicle fringe. This is
incomplete just now (or not as complete as I'd like!) so felt very
steep and technical. Continuing straight up, I then moved left and
kept to steep ground rather than enter the funnel, and this in turn
linked onto the Augean Alley finish. This last pitch is not difficult
as such but is on really hollow snow-ice so serious, and meant the
route was sustained throughout.

Well that's me finished for the winter this year. I'm looking forward
to less psychologically-demanding activities and a long summer!
Thanks Alan for posting my comments and photos, I hope they've been
of use to folk, and I wish everyone safe passage in the mountains.

All the best,

Patrick

Thanks for your contributions Patrick. I hope you keep getting up these climbs early, that way you are not soloing above other climbers. It's unusual to have people soloing in winter, but when it does happen close to me, I'm not too happy. I was on Orion Face Direct on that murky day, but most certainly not out of bed early enough to see you, even if the mist had cleared!


Gardyloo Buttress from Patrick Roman


This very fine early morning shot by Patrick Roman shows the final pitch on N.E. Buttress above the 'Forty-Foot' corner and highlights why getting up really early can give climbers some special trips. The only problem with climbing solo is that you have no partner to supply scale, colour or foreground interest to your shots. However, if as in this shot you use the curve of the crest edge and snow texture to lead the viewer into the shot, it works very well.

Thanks again Patrick for taking the time to supply reports and pictures. I'm sure we are all inspired to get out ourselves.

Hi Alan.

Just like to say a big thank you for the 2 beds at the hut last Thursday night.
Anyway we had a truly superb day on point V. Left the hut at 5am and were first on the route, but only just! Must have been 4 or 5 teams gearing up as we set off up the second pitch. All in all a 5* day, shame we had to leg it back to the car and drive 290 miles home, but with big grins on our faces!!
Fantastic site, helps make the long drive North worth the effort with up to the minute reports.

Regards

Lee

Yes Psychedelic does look superb just now. Teams on just about everything up there this morning including Simon Richardson and Iain Small on a new route between Riders and Albatross - looked good.

Although things are great up there I think they have peaked! I did Orion this morning which was generally awesome but a tad aerated on the slab rib rising traverse. Also did JP is back right of Burritos - Superb, one of the best IV's on the Ben - you want to get it in your guide!

Thanks Rob