Out playing yesterday with Greg Care from Paramo on a kit testing day and this superb spell of good weather presented a chance for a 'special' day. I've always hankered after climbing a group of the Nevis classics in one go. For some it is all the big ridges or a collection of ice classics or possibly ski-ing the big easy gullies. Our project was three 'bench-mark' classics, Centurion (HVS), Point Five Gully (V) and Tower Ridge (III/IV). This collection is only possible on a few days each spring and sometimes never comes into condition as the need for dry rock on The Great Buttress of Carn Dearg is very momentary and prone to wet weeps from snow patches high on the face.

Yesterday proved okay and we opted for Centurion first, followed by Point Five Gully and a final descent of Tower Ridge. A very early start on Point Five Gully would be another logical combination. We were keen to get sun on the buttress, which is the case after nine o'clock at present, although it fades by mid-day. It transpired that our wishes were granted, with a glorious inversion in the morning and a very murky, damp afternoon. Centurion was dry throughout, if a little chilly at times. Point Five Gully was dripping and some wet holes are appearing in the chimney pitch. Tower Ridge was pretty rocky in places, especially around Tower Gap and the descent towards the Eastern Traverse. Many ice routes are still complete, but starting to melt off in the milder weather.

By the way, the gear (Paramo that is) was good and the lady I spoke to at the top of Point Five Gully should buy some!

Sunshine and body warmth creeping down the Great Buttress of Carn Dearg

At the foot of Centurion and the inversion is starting to melt away as the day warms up.


Looking down the first pitch and a half of Centurion (4C awkward)


Greg bridging up into the first crux (5a) corner. Dry rock all over.


The 2nd crux (5a) succumbs to a long reach and still dry crossing Route II.


Enjoying the sunshine on the spikey arete on the last moves of the climb (4c)


Point Five Gully first pitch and the afternoon murk has descended to blanket the sky.


Now this is winter again at the top of the second pitch.


Greg at the top of the 'Rogue Pitch' still complete although rather soft in places.

Check out Point Five Gully for some pictures of a very thin route, unlike that which we are used to this season! It makes interesting reading and shows how the route can change.