Perfect Ice Climbing

Yesterday I was on Indicator Wall and the ice could not possibly have been any better. Instant placements in chalky, pick-sucking Styrofoam. The snow/ice towards the top of routes near the plateau on Ben Nevis is a little sugary. This will be due to the lack of freeze/thaw at around 1200 metres over the last few weeks I think.

There were heaps of teams on many routes, including, Zero Gully, Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge, Good Friday Climb, Indicator Wall, Albatross, Psychedelic Wall, Shot in the Dark, Left Edge (Gardyloo Buttress) Smiths Route (Gardyloo Buttress). No doubt the same was true in Coire na Ciste.

Conditions in Glen Coe, Stob Coire nan Lochan are reported to be 'looking' good. The week ahead looks unsettled at times, but falling as snow on the high ground, so winter continues. I still have some space at the CIC Hut for any interested parties or individuals.


Hi Alan,

Another early start this morning (2nd March) ensured I was the only person at the top of Observatory Gully as dawn broke. The result was a ropeless solo of Albatross in 31 minutes. I took the thin original start (left of block shown) up to the rock spike, then the right-hand chimney (90-degree ice streak near centre of photo) which was very tenuous, consisting of a sparse series of ice blobs. Further up, some steep technical moves on the traverse into the snow bay, and an awkward ledge to exit the bay and enter the shallow corner before finishing on good steep ice leading to the small cornice. A fantastic line with every section seamlessly joining into the next.

Take care,

Patrick



Thanks to Adam Hughes for the photos on Ledge Route yesterday.