Hi Alan

Not managed to catch up since I saw you on Tower Ridge. Have had to head south albeit to the alps this week, so Scotland over for another year (just as it gets going!!) Awesome conditions up on Indicator Wall day before yesterday. Stormy Petrel had to be overlooked for a direct start (climbed the previous day by Ian Parnell) into Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner. Gobsmacking!! See attached pics - Andy Benson wondering...

Enjoy the alpine conditions up north in the meantime!

Dave Hollinger (Thanks Dave A.K.)

PS Let the masses kick themselves for not booking the CIC hut week!!!!


Alan,
Great days mountaineering yesterday (Monday). Climbed Dorsal Arête in misty though mild weather topping out on Stob Corie nan Lochain at about 12:15. The snow though sparse on the little buttress was firm and in places had formed thin ice in the back of the small grooves and short chimneys leading to final arête. Word of caution though the rise in temperature has loosened a lot of unstable rock. Once on the summit the weather cleared and we had a fantastic traverse over to Bidean as shown in the photo. We finished our day by dropping off into the Lost Valley. The current conditions lend themselves to this type of trip with perhaps a less ambitious easier mixed climb giving access to a high ridge walks producing a very enjoyable day.

Ross Nicol




Who needs the Ice Factor when we have the real thing on our doorstep? The perfect weather is continuing, with overnight frosts and clear days adding to the best quality ice we have seen in years. The weather will cool down again towards the back end of the week and the weekend. I would recommend camping out at the foot of your chosen route if you want to avoid the crowds this coming weekend. It could be worth hiking up to the summit and leaving a 'rap-rope' in place down the side of Indicator Wall to facilitate quick and easy access to the climbs in Observatory Gully.

What price a cup of coffee and flapjack in the summit shelter, followed by a simple slide down to the foot of your chosen perfect ice climb? Many of the routes are still in great 'nick'. Some teams returning from Aonach Mor, did say they had found reasonable ice on the shady climbs.



Hello Alan,

Well as everyone knows by now, it was just about perfect on Ben Nevis last Saturday – solid neve, chewy ice, blue skies, light winds and sunshine on top. We came up Garadh Gully to gain the higher routes, then up Glover’s Chimney and the last bit of Tower Ridge to the summit. We were able to sit in the sun and have a leisurely late lunch by the summit shelter. First time I’ve ever done that, even in summer!

The sunset up there was stunning; my pics don’t do it justice but have a look anyway. Feel free to use or link to them.

Cheers,

Keith Waddell

Thanks Keith for the link to your set of photos.





Hi Alan, here are a couple of pictures of Martin from Saturday showing Mark's fabulous cornice mining on Central Gully Right-Hand on Creag coire na Ciste. Thanks again for a brilliant weekend. Mark's a great guide.

Best wishes

Adrian Casey

Hi Alan





Your website is a great source of information and inspiration. Inspired by talk of "magnetic ice", we came up on Sunday and did Ledge Route, which was in good condition at that time of the day (finished at 11). It all felt very Alpine! I've attached a few pictures, the last one showing someone taking a picture over the edge of the plateau protected by his friend.

Cheers

Callum MacLellan

Thanks Callum. Check out his site folks. More good pictures.