Alan Kimber - West Coast Mountain Guides Winter climbing courses

Latest winter climbing conditions

These are posted as and when I have the time or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot of this page. Important links as follows:

Wild Windy and Winter

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Ben Nevis

Hi Alan

The attached picture was taken on Wednesday afternoon form the top of Binnein Mor, using an Olympus u1000.To be in the mountains of Scotland in such perfect conditions is no act of chance. Watch the weather forecast do not dither, and go for it. I set out at 4:00 from Preston And was on top of Sgorr Dhearg at 13:00pm. Thanks for the brew. TOM.



Left Twin 8th February

Left Twin, showing Jamie from the Ice Factor cruising outside for a change!


Helvellyn yesterday

Thanks to Tom for the picture of Helvellyn yesterday. This guy gets around!

Nanda Devi 21st February Mountain Festival





Very windy today on the hills. So much so that people were being blown over and not making very good progress. A fairly large group appeared to be drawn to Garadh Gully on Ben Nevis, which must have created a few queues, ice bombs and curses! One team managed Moonlight Gully and another bailed from the fin on Dorsal Arete, into Broad Gully in the face of very strong winds.

Some reports coming in show that the very strong winds are stripping off the new snow from the high cliffs. This is both west and east Scotland. The ice is still building in the west. Another report from Beinn Udlaidh said that it was not too good, although the report came from people who did not see the higher cliffs. Any more news from Glen Orchy would be appreciated.

The forecast for the week ahead
suggests milder weather towards the end of the week. Before then we may get some westerly and north-westerlies. This will bring more snow to the western hill with any luck. Over the last week we have had some very dry, cold weather around Fort William, whilst the rest of Britain has suffered under some heavy snow. This was all due to the easterly airflow. We never get anything but sunshine and dry weather off of easterly winds!

Check out the Mountain Festival programme for 21st February. From 16th February to 3rd March Amongst all the other really excellent days and evenings I will be putting together an evening on 21st February to include some detail on Nanda Devi.

By the way your ecofascist-correspondent needs to consider. People who smoke, virtually, are saying, "I will not listen. I am going to smoke even though I shall most likely make myself ill. To hell with it, you can pay for me.' Ignoring Climate Change is in the same ball park." You can quote me if you like, and refer him to www.kare-uk.org for an example of the complexity and dangers of the situation as applied to Dungeness. By the way I wrote it in the mid nineties. Now
some people locally are beginning to take note.
Do I sound as if I am getting a bit hot under the collar. You bet I am, especially when I play with my great grandson.

Never mind, at least we beat Australia a second time.

Love to you and yours from A and me.

Hello Alan.

something a little more positive, took a wander up Beinn Udlaidh to see if there was anything doing and also try and find something sheltered from the wind.

success on both counts with Quartzvein Scoop in reasonably good condition and no wind in that corner-at least until the top!

a few other parties in the corrie climbing West Gully, Zigzag Gully and maybe South Gully of Black Wall, someone also backed off steep icefall to right of Quartzvein (unsure of route). unable to comment on condition of these or other routes as visibility was poor. Ice Crew also looked good if a little lean at bottom.

Could do with some more freeze thaw and it would all be very good.

thanks Bob



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posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 6:47 PM 


2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi,
Not quite Glen Orchy, but close, was out on Creag Tharsuin (next to the cobbler) and had a great day. Lots of snow falling and crags wintery with magic turf. Did the Tingler in 3 pitches and thought it to be about V6 with excellent cracks and bomber hooks where needed. Not another soul in the corrie!
Cheers Andy Clark

February 10, 2007 10:02 PM  

Anonymous Anonymous said...

We may very well have been the ones seen in Zigzag gully on Beinn Udlaidh. It was basically powder snow so we gave it a miss after probing a bit and headed up horny ridge instead. The turf was pretty well frozen and the wind made it an exciting little route.

Cheers, Phil Lee

February 15, 2007 4:25 PM  

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