Latest winter climbing conditions
These are posted as and when I have the time
or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they
find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information
also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot
of this page. Important links as follows:
- The Scottish Avalanche Information Service
- Mountain Weather Conditions
- Metcheck Long-term Weather Forecast
- Snow Forecast - Scotland Next 3 Days
- Met Office Fort William Weather Forecast
- Fort William Live Weather Station
- Aonach Mor Weather (Updates Hourly)
- Fort William Weather
- Useful Links & Webcams
- Pre 2007 Conditions Archive
- Pre 2007 Mountain Diary
Deep Chill and more to come
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
Thanks to Colin Reilly for his splendid pictures taken on the summit plateau of Ben Nevis today. Capital venue:-)
Hi Alan
Yesterday Stevo and I had a plan to do White Line III, but when we got up into Coire na Ciste a lot of the routes on Raeburn's Buttress, including White Line, looked thin and challenging. So because the III looked hard, we moderated our ambitions and went for a IV instead. :) We romped up Comb Gully on magnificent neve in three pitches from the triangular rock on the right with the perfect nut-crack. Alternating leads meant Stevo led the crux, the short sharp icefall just above the triangular rock, on his first IV. The ice was beautiful all the way, but the second pitch did have some hollow bits and required a little care. The third pitch (Stevo's again) was a walk-up, with no cornice to speak of.
A very busy day on the hill, although not everything was in condition-- the first icefall on Green Gully is a lot harder than III,4 just now. And as your pictures show, the middle of Three Gully Buttress (where Diana and Aphrodite are supposed to be) isn't really there at all, even though there is a monster cornice above it.
Incidentally, here's my input on this global warming issue. There's this curious idea going around that the only way to deal with global warming is by individuals making it a matter of personal responsibility to have less fun, travel less, and generally turn themselves into puritan miserabilist eco-fascists. Can't think where this idea comes from, but it certainly shields the real culprits for global warming-- the big oil companies and the politicians--from having to take effective action. Of course we should be careful what we do. But we should stop thinking that being green means we're never allowed to have any fun (e.g. by flying to Rjukan!). And we should put more pressure on our so-called leaders to address our environmental problems effectively at the political level.
A pleasure to meet your dalmatian, by the way. What's s/he called? And can you post a picture of the beastie? Yes Tim, the one you met is called Megan. The one in this shot is Cleo. Did Stevo walk off with a key to his room?
Best
Tim
(Correction: "the first icefall on Green Gully is a lot harder than III,4 just now" should read "the first icefall on Glover's Chimney is a lot harder than III,4 just now, and the start to Green Gully looks a bit gnarly too".)
posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 11:40 AM
7 Comments:
Doh, another typo-- I meant "the triangular rock buttress on the LEFT", not the right.
BTW, there's a loose boulder at the top of the second pitch on Comb. I tried putting a sling round it, and it wobbled. Beware.
Similar loose rock is obvious in Green Gully, especially on the right wall all the way up the route. Many belay blocks have detached themselves over the years.
Totally agree about the whole global warming issue - there seems to be some concerted effort to shift the responsibility to the individual and give us all judaeo-christian blame backpacks to carry around. Let's let our politicians known we're not fooled - and meanwhile, let's fly off to Norway before spring!
I'm disapointed to see some the sentiments on global warming that have been posted. I love my climbing, particularly Scottish winter climbing, but I am also very aware that my actions are part of the problem. I've modified my lifestyle as a result and I think we all need to take some individual responsibility. I don't think that this means I am a "puritan miserabilist eco-fascist"; just someone who cares about the future of the planet (and Scottish winter climbing).
I must agree with richard, yes global warming is an issue that must be addressed by world governments and businesses, it is also our actions as individuals that make a huge difference as well. Blaming the politicians and saying that any one who cares enough about the fragility of our enviroment is a 'puritan miserableist eco facist' seems a poor excuse. Take some responsability.
Sorry, I don't mean to be anonymous, but every time I try to sign up for google/blogger, my 'computer says no', so can I identify myself as Jean from Argyll, as I was the one who first commented on connection between cheap flights and eventually no snow? Of course, governments must do something, but if we just sit and wait for them to do something, we'll be floating on our own personal life rafts soon. As individuals, we need to at least cut down on short-hauls, which are the worst polluters airplane-wise, and we need to demand support from our MPs/MSPs for more money for renewables, solar panels, windmills, triple-glazing, insulation, etc. on a SMALL scale, not these huge pylon programmes that lose 25 per cent of their energy before they get to their target consumer pool. Each month, the gov't allocates $500,000 for small-scale alternative energy projects - this month's funding ran out at 10.15 am on 1 February (!!), but Blair's willing to spend billions on bombing Iraq(n). Of course, I don't want people to stop coming to Scotland to climb (and ski/bike/fish/eat/drink) but we all need to take stock of what we do, and counterbalance it as best we can.
Sorry, Jean from Argyll again: it is SO GOOD to have cold, clear weather, nights drawing out, frost, and beautiful dawns and sunsets. Makes you feel human again after wet, wet, wet Dec. and Jan. It may not last long, but I can't wait to get up a hill this weekend!
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