Latest winter climbing conditions
These are posted as and when I have the time
or information. Climbers are welcome to let me know what they
find anywhere in Scotland, and I will try and post this information
also. Links to other relevant sites are at the top and foot
of this page. Important links as follows:
- The Scottish Avalanche Information Service
- Mountain Weather Conditions
- Metcheck Long-term Weather Forecast
- Snow Forecast - Scotland Next 3 Days
- Met Office Fort William Weather Forecast
- Fort William Live Weather Station
- Aonach Mor Weather (Updates Hourly)
- Fort William Weather
- Useful Links & Webcams
- Pre 2007 Conditions Archive
- Pre 2007 Mountain Diary
Rjukan
Saturday, January 27, 2007
A ten out of ten day according to the lads. This is my first visit to Rjukan in the winter and today was very successful. We climbed Lettvan (WI 2) and Tracy's Eyes (WI3). Two good starter routes, which would have been grade 3/4 in Scotland. There appears to be enough ice around for a good weeks climbing at least if you have not been here in the past. Some climbers further up the Upper Gorge were on Juvsoyla (WI 6). This was looking pretty thin according to someone who knows better than I do.
posted by Westcoast Mountainguides @ 9:07 PM
2 Comments:
Hi, I went to Rjukan last year to do my first winter climbing and did both climbs lettvan(WI2)and tracy's eyes (WI3) plus various other stuff up to WI3.
Would Comb gully or Green gully on the Ben be suitable for my limited experience or should I go for something easier. I'm also quite happy rock climbing up to VS 4C.
Thanks,
Steve
Hi Steven,
Thanks for getting involved. Green Gully and Comb Gully are both classic Ben Nevis winter climbs. The grades in Scotland differ from Norway, as do the conditions. Rjukan has sustained water ice, which can be murder on your calf-muscles if you do not find good resting ledges. Also, Scottish gullies have a less brittle type of snow-ice and always have good resting spots.
Please also consider the further mountaineering skills needed in Scotland. In Rjukan you just latch onto the nearest tree and abseil off, at least on the routes named. In Scotland, you often have to navigate to the foot of the route and assess possible avalanche hazard on the route, then navigate off in the teeth of a blizzard after the climb.
So, in answer to your question about suitability of the Scottish gullies, it would depend on what sort of mountaineering experience you have and if you feel confident in dealing with variable snow and weather conditions on Scottish hills.
On a general note. These days I do find that the instant nature of climbing at places such as Rjukan can lead people into thinking they are up to similar grades in Scotland, but they do not have all the other skills required.
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